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Ours did initially running the J35 with the intake spacer stock. We now removed the spacer and did a side intake to fit the hood. NB cars have more under hood clearance and have several other options like the marine intake etc
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I've been looking at ditching my turbo motor for a while and have been looking heavily into either an LFX or this. I'm moving my car more toward track duty, so a V6 making the same power as me with OE reliability would be great. I shredded 5 speeds once I built my engine, and I would say a 6 speed is in your future once you get past what a turbo motor will do on stock internals. I keep a back up 6 speed just incase still. If I can do this reasonably enough, Like to where I could recoup the cost of selling my engine off, I may very well do it. Still leaning more heavily to the LFX, however.
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I've been looking at ditching my turbo motor for a while and have been looking heavily into either an LFX or this. I'm moving my car more toward track duty, so a V6 making the same power as me with OE reliability would be great. I shredded 5 speeds once I built my engine, and I would say a 6 speed is in your future once you get past what a turbo motor will do on stock internals. I keep a back up 6 speed just incase still. If I can do this reasonably enough, Like to where I could recoup the cost of selling my engine off, I may very well do it. Still leaning more heavily to the LFX, however.
I was looking at a v8 swap but the cost of them are ridiculous. 10-14k minimum.
Honesty I'd recommend a J32A2 swap. Less than 4k for the full kit and you can keep your drive train.
You can pay someone to make a pnp harness or you can modify the harness your self and save $500.
So far I've got $100 from my old ecu and $300 for my original block.
A JV6 swap not only is much cheaper but much simpler to install as well. It also keeps the car very close to the stock 50/50 weight distribution that you'll want for a track /drift car.
Hopefully if it's warm Friday I'll start removing my subframe. I'm making about a $1,000 payment to minitek tomorrow.
I was looking at a v8 swap but the cost of them are ridiculous. 10-14k minimum.
Honesty I'd recommend a J32A2 swap. Less than 4k for the full kit and you can keep your drive train.
You can pay someone to make a pnp harness or you can modify the harness your self and save $500.
So far I've got $100 from my old ecu and $300 for my original block.
A JV6 swap not only is much cheaper but much simpler to install as well. It also keeps the car very close to the stock 50/50 weight distribution that you'll want for a track /drift car.
Hopefully if it's warm Friday I'll start removing my subframe. I'm making about a $1,000 payment to minitek tomorrow.
That's what concerns me. That and the oil pan speed bump scraper. I figure I can part my motor and turbo set up and recover most of the cost (probably break even) and I'm really not even worried about the money. I want 300whp NA. I don't feel like spending a ton of time doing the swap. That's why I like this one. What is the non-turbo power capacity of this motor? I wouldn't mind doing a Frankenstein motor either.
That's what concerns me. That and the oil pan speed bump scraper. I figure I can part my motor and turbo set up and recover most of the cost (probably break even) and I'm really not even worried about the money. I want 300whp NA. I don't feel like spending a ton of time doing the swap. That's why I like this one. What is the non-turbo power capacity of this motor? I wouldn't mind doing a Frankenstein motor either.
A J35 mashed with a j32 will get you to 300rwhp pretty easily.
If you don't want to spend a lot of time on it you can do a M90 supercharger kit. They can be picked up in good shape for $300 and with ev14 injectors, an AEM ecu and 5psi stock boost you'll see 330rwhp on a stock J32A2.
This will still be more reliable than a turbo build and much less stress full on components as boost is built from rpm.
A j32 generally has around a 500-800rwhp limit with a stock bottom end.
The Type S cams are pretty aggressive stock. If you want to run an underdrive pully on the M90 10-12 psi should make around 450rwhp. You'll want stronger head studs and valve springs and retainers. The bottom end will still be perfect. You could file down your ring gap to stay on the safe side
So its 35' out and freezing rain today. Sounds like perfect weather for the miata!
I found my first unexpected part cost!
Most of the rubber bushings on the drivers side look like cheese, I slid hard enough to blow a tire and bend a ti rod on that side a while ago so it might have something to do with it.
$79 from auto zone for an entire kit, comes with like 12 bushings.
I removed the rest of the fuel and vacuum lines from the engine bay and warped up anything I didn't want to get scratched, rusty or moisture on.
If its warm I'll start dropping out the sub frame Sunday.
I painted the rest of my control arms and clear coated them.
I'm basically working on paying the rest if my minitek kit off. I've only got a couple hundred to go before they ship me the subframe, transmission adapter plate and plate bushings.
I also picked up a new daily to get me around town.
$500 for a 1989 Toyota MR2. It's probably my third favorite car I've ever owned. The first being my Mx5 and the second going to a Porsche 944s with an S2 engine swap.
Hi! Just joined the forum! I'm going to be following your build. I hope to do one myself! My current plans are for a J32A2 block with S heads (for strength and boring out - it has iron liners), J35 rotating assembly (for displacement) and a J37 intake manifold (it was lowered to clear the hood of the Honda/Acura so it should fit the Miata). I thought about the plastic marine manifold, but I'm not sure it can flow enough air. The most powerful Honda outboard is 250hp and I'm hoping to make more than that. I ruled out a K swap because it doesn't have low end torque and I ruled out a turbo for the same reason; you don't get anything until the turbo spools up and that doesn't happen until 3k rpm.
I was following Titus' build but he stopped making entries after he shortened the throttle cable. It looked like he was finishing loose ends, too.
Wow! You got my attention! What's your setup, especially your turbo size? By the way, my car is completely stock. I was initially looking at the FMII with the 3554 turbo (the small one).
Last edited by jerel77494; 04-22-2017 at 12:12 PM.
Reason: additional information
2560r , It's all in my build but that 2554 spools about the same.<br /><br />Go read the last 10 pages of I want your spool data, thread. Lots a recent real info.
K miata is officially suppor bmw transmissions and my goal is to build a 400+hp street car. E36,E46, and E30 are all in the swap line up.
My car isn't going anywhere, K miata is planning on releasing there kit sometime in the next 6 months.
I talked with minitek about possibly using a BMW transmission with there kit and they have no plans on adapting it. This means you'll always be limited to 300wtq or so from a 6 speed miata transmission. BMW transmissions can be found at drag strips with 800+whp
Upon asking for a refund they kept 15% of my deposit since I "lost them potential customers" even though I never had anything shipped. So I lost about $200 from a refund where I purchased nothing. It's probably one of the most shadiest thing I've seen with a business.
(Sigh). Was looking forward to this... Titus used the AEM ecu. I was hoping for a stock Honda Odyssey ecu build. Programing an ecu scares me. Ryansmoneypit, I found your threads about your ecu hassles. I want to avoid that as much as possible.
(Sigh). Was looking forward to this... Titus used the AEM ecu. I was hoping for a stock Honda Odyssey ecu build. Programing an ecu scares me. Ryansmoneypit, I found your threads about your ecu hassles. I want to avoid that as much as possible.
I made a major mistake though, I changed every single part all at once. Injectors, head ,vvt, 32+1 wheel, cops, TURBO....wayyyy too much at once for a beginner. That made troubleshooting really difficult.
03-15-2017, 10:23 AM
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