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The car is basically stock. It has P/S, A/C, and cruise. The clutch and radiator were recently replace before I bought it. Given the issues I've stated above, should I hold off on installing the turbo kit or should I just go for it? Or should I cut and run before I break something?
Last edited by Windows95; 04-09-2016 at 12:52 PM.
Reason: Updated links
Look up my build thread, I copied what hornetball did on my turbo setup, and it works great and was very easy to do.
I read through the entire thread describing your compound turbo project. That's unreal. I actually didn't see any post that described how you tapped the oil pan, but no worries, I think I have a pretty good idea. Did you go 1/2" like hornet or 3/8"?
If the former, it looks like P/N SUM-220851N from Summit would do the trick.
I read through the entire thread describing your compound turbo project. That's unreal. I actually didn't see any post that described how you tapped the oil pan, but no worries, I think I have a pretty good idea. Did you go 1/2" like hornet or 3/8"?
If the former, it looks like P/N SUM-220851N from Summit would do the trick.
Hmm I know he told me about it, I thought I even posted a pic...
I did it with 1/2" NPT, straight fitting, and hooked the hose to it and bent the hose around to hook to the turbo.
Also I used a shop-vac to blow air into the valve cover where the oil cap goes, this puts positive pressure to blow out metal from the tap when drilling/tapping the pan. WHen done there was like 5 specs of metal in the pan, and I could stick my finger in to get them out no problem.
lol that's the most idiotic location I've ever seen
I did it that way because it had great clearance for drilling with everything still installed on the car. Going on 40K miles with that drain location. Would do again.
A little update: I removed the exhaust manifold and everything behind it. The EGR tube was a challenge. I didn't have a flare wrench so I bought one. For reference, the nut is the same size as the O2 sensor, 22mm or 7/8". Spraying it with PB blaster wasn't enough. I had to get it nice and hot with a heat gun and stand halfway in the engine bay so I could apply pressure to the end of the wrench with my foot. At least it's off! A log-style cast iron manifold from BEGi will be replacing it. It has a bung for the EGR tube, but it looks like I'll need this 90 degree adapter as well as the ferrule fitting. If one of you guys who did an EGR delete has this laying around, I'd be happy to buy it off you.
Here is a pic of the old exhaust setup. It includes a 2.5" Magnaflow 59956 cat, Racing Beat 2.375 midpipe, and eBay 2.5" to 4" muffler tip–all with welded flanges. I'll be replacing it with a full 3" Enthuza.
Not exactly, because I have an MS2, but let me walk you through my logic. The new 3" exhaust system I'll be installing utilizes a test pipe instead of a catalytic converter. I'd love to be able to pass the smog test without a cat, and I think my chances will be higher if I keep the EGR. If not, I guess I can always replace the test pipe with a Magnaflow 59559, but it would be nice if I can avoid that. Is that realistic?
I've also read that deleting the EGR doesn't result in performance gains, so if the only advantage is saving $50 on the fittings, I'm fine keeping it. If there are other benefits I'm not aware of, I'd be interested in learning about them.
03-31-2016, 11:11 PM
Windows 95 Upgrade
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