1999 Jeep wrangler sport - $13000 OBO - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 11-13-2009, 02:06 PM   #1
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Default 1999 Jeep wrangler sport - $13000 OBO

Category: Domestic
Status: Clean Title

I have a 1999 Jeep wrangler sport for sale, in USA - Rhode Island.

Mileage: 148600 miles
Engine Size: 4.0l

Asking price is $13000 OBO

Body/engine/drive train
-99 Jeep Wrangler Sport
-Blue exterior/black interior
-4.0 liter
-147k miles on engine/trans/body
-58k on transfer case
-5 speed
-Both tops
-Hard doors w/ aftermarket (Quadratec) armrests
-Herculined tub & inside of rear door
-Cobra all-in-one cb w/ Firestick antenna
-Pioneer cd player (mp3 in)
-PORC Slip Yoke Eliminator kit
-rear cross member cut out and replaced with a 4x4 ¼” wall box tubing with integrated trailer hitch. It is welded directly to the frame with multiple gussets and is airtight (can hold approximately 2.5 gallons of air). Rearmost body mounts are also integrated into the bumper. Bumper extends from the body ¼” for a great departure angle.
-custom body tub mounts in the rear
- 15 gallon RCI fuel cell reusing stock fuel pump with an adapter ring. It is bolted together so that it will not fall apart (happened to me twice)
-1” Daystar motor mounts
-Daystar poly trans mount
-3 core aluminum radiator with integrated auto tranny cooler (can be used as an oil cooler)
-a/c (needs a recharge)
-wired for aftermarket fog lights w/ a 20A switch and a fused link
-rear tumble seat
-upgraded OEM exhaust manifold
-custom 3rd brake light installed in the rear door
-registered and inspected in the state of RI until August 2010
-just replaced both idler pullies
-cherry bomb turbo shorty muffler (dumps just after the belly pan for maximum clearance)

-Clayton 5 inch stretch hard arm suspension professionally welded/installed
-Rubicon Express 4.5” coil springs
-Rubicon Express extreme duty track bar with heavy duty frame mount welded directly to the frame
- Rubicon Express extended brake lines (braided stainless in the rear, hard-line extensions in the front)
-Custom bump stops front and rear
-Custom y-link steering setup built out of 1 3/8” DOM 3/16” wall tubing with left and right hand thread ¾” heim joints
-custom high steer arm on passenger side to put the joints in double shear for increased strength
- Durango steering box w/ grand Cherokee pitman arm (stronger than a jeep box)
-Rubicon Express monotube 4.5” shocks in the front, Napa brand dodge 2500 heavy duty rear shocks in the back

Front axle
-1978 Ford high pinion Dana 60 (SRW)
-Tnt customs truss setup (all available options) and lower control arm brackets professionally welded/installed
-tube on driver’s side welded to center section
-Solid diff cover
-Yukon 5.13 reverse rotation gears/Timken bearings professionally installed
-new axle seals at the time of gear install
-brand new lockright professionally installed
-passenger hub was rebuilt with new bearings and seals
-new dual piston ford calipers & pads
-new rotors
-stripped down to bare metal, primed and painted (silver marine grade primer over the whole axle, truss and lcas were then painted satin black)
-rotors painted with high temp black paint
-new hub seals
-30 spline OEM drive flanges (not yet installed)
-passenger lockout hub is missing the spring, so it cannot be engaged
-1.5” aluminum wheel spacers
-custom driveshaft made of thicker walled tubing (built/balanced by RI driveshaft)
-1310 conversion u-joint on axle end (new), standard 1310 on t-case end (new)
-slight shave to the pumpkin
-rebuilt driver's side hub this past sunday (passenger hub rebuilt a month ago) with new bearings and seals

Rear axle
-1977 Ford Dana 60 (SRW)
-tubes welded to center section
-shaved bottom
- bottom of the pumpkin was plated with 3/8” steel so it is completely smooth
-disc brake conversion using Chevy ¾ ton calipers (calipers, pads, rotors, lines- all new)
-Clayton truss, shock mounts, Ballistic Fab coil buckets and lower control arm mounts professionally welded/ installed
-truss has custom gussets on the front, rear, and insides
-lcas and shock mounts set for maximum ground clearance
-Yukon 5.13 gears & Timken master install kit professionally installed
-new Detroit locker professionally installed
-solid diff cover shaved to match pumpkin
-new axle seals
-stainless steel hard brake lines run through the truss and coil bucket mounts for maximum protection
-breather tube run up through the truss. Old breather tube hole filled with weld/smoothed
-1/2” aluminum wheel spacers
-new wheel studs
-custom driveshaft made from a front TJ shaft (built/balanced by RI driveshaft)
-1310 conversion u-joint on axle end (new), standard 1310 on t-case end (new)
-stripped down to bare metal, primed and painted (silver marine grade primer over the whole axle, truss and brackets were then painted satin black)

Skid plates
-3/16” radiator skid (I forget the manufacturer)
-3/16” Teraflex steering box skid
-3/16” nth degree engine oil pan skid
- stock belly pan modified to fit the Clayton setup
-1/4” rock sliders with integrated rock rail (I forget the manufacturer)

-(5) H1 military double bead lock rims
-4 wheels have rebar rock rings professionally welded on (color-matched to the jeep)
-4 run flats (spare doesn’t have one). They were shaved down so they do not come into contact with the tire under low tire pressure
-spare H1 outer wheel section
-4 37” TSL swamper radials (2 80% tread, 2 50% tread)
-1 brand new 36” Goodyear MT
-stainless steel nuts threaded on the wheel bolts to protect the threads
- color-matched to the body

Things to take note of
-The soft top has some tears in it, as it is the original top, but it still works just fine
-The driver’s seat has a tear in the side near the adjustment lever maybe 2” in length
-passenger lockout hub is missing the spring, so it cannot be engaged (I have drive flanges however which can be installed in place of the lockouts)
-mph gauge sometimes fluctuates (I think the sensor is oriented the wrong way, but it doesn’t do it often enough to warrant fixing it)
-At this time there aren’t any flares in the rear, however I still have the stock rear flares that can be put on
- no side view mirrors (passenger was broken/removed, and driver’s recently rusted and broke when I went to adjust it)
-a section of the exhaust is just clamped, it works just fine, but welding it up might be better for the long run.
-small crack in the plastic flare on the passenger front fender

Let me start by saying I daily drive this jeep. It will do 75 all day on the highway and is capable of crawling over just about anything you put in front of it. I really hate to sell this, but life changes are forcing my hand. The lift and axles were installed about 4 months ago, and have only been lightly wheeled (this is my DD) a half dozen times or so. The jeep has never been in an accident, and I stay on top of all the fluids. At the time of the lift, the radiator was also installed, and all fluids were replaced at that time (radiator, tranny, t-case, diffs, power steering, and brake fluid). The previous owner had it dealer maintained, and I have a stack of receipts from him. He never took it off-road. This has been my pride and joy, but it’s time for someone else to give it a new home. The lift installation was an incredibly complex install, and I can’t thank my fabricator enough for his time and skill. Everything on the jeep came out flawless. If you are looking for one of the meanest, streetable rock crawlers around, look no further. This is a fully built rig that was done the right way. No corners were cut, nothing was held back. I documented the whole build up, and will include a cd with all the pictures and information I have of the entire build. More pics available upon request. Sold As-as. Buyer is responsible for shipping!
Attached Thumbnails
1999 Jeep wrangler sport - 000 OBO-1.jpg   1999 Jeep wrangler sport - 000 OBO-2.jpg   1999 Jeep wrangler sport - 000 OBO-3.jpg   1999 Jeep wrangler sport - 000 OBO-10.jpg  
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