No AC or PS.
Paint is 5/10. It looks good for a few weeks after a good wax. It was repainted in about ’97 and the previous owner did not believe in wax. I keep it looking good, but it’s an effort. The gel-coat is very thin. It’s been hit in the left rear-bumper slightly, with a small crack and spidercracking in the top of the bumper on that side… filled pretty good with paint and nobody gives it a second look. There are a few small paint "things" most of which are in the Photobucket pictures. Body panels are all 9.5/10 for dings. I can’t off-hand recall a ding anywhere, but there might be one.
Both the stock undertray and the stock nose air-funneler have been removed. There is a piece of sheet-metal to help with airflow that connects the bottom of the bumper with the IC.
Interior looks very good. Carpet under drivers floormat is a little ragged, but other than that dash/doors/center console all in great shape. Leather seat-covers are 15yrs old and definitely worn, but no tears of consequence. Steering wheel is lowered approx 2” for use with my custom seat, which can come with the car if you want it, but I will provide the car with stock (foamectomy’d) seat in place. Parking handle mod. Dead pedal. Package shelf removed to allow seats to lay back further, but included in sale.
The top is old and has some very small tears that don’t leak. The plastic has a small crack that doesn’t leak and are easy repairs with any vinyl repair goo. In heavy rain, the side-rail leaks around the window and drips on your arm. Top-latches work perfect.
Trunk is very clean, good spare/jack, and solid battery
LONG LIST OF MODS:
BEGi cast manifold (2 studs utilize metal inserts)
BEGi SS divorced gas DP
SR20det T25 (/80/.64) w/stainless oil feed line
DSM 2G Wastegate Actuator
NA Borla duals 2.25”
2.5” test pipe
CX Racing IC, 2” piping
All couplers w/T-bolt clamps
Bosch OEM BOV (recirculated for keeping noise down)
Big K&N cone filter
DIY over-engineered Catch-Can
Megasquirt (standalone by Braineak) (fuel pump jumpered in diagnostics box)
RX7 550cc injectors (cleaned and flowed)
GMC EBC solenoid w/dash switch
Innovate LC-1 wideband
Stewart Warner boost/vaccum gauge (gauge light activated via dash switch)
Hi-quality vaccum line throughout
DIY dual feed fuel rail
Toyota COPS conversion w/awesome hold-down plate (resistor jumpered in diagnostics box)
Autolite 1-step colder gapped at .045 (no blowout at 15psi)
Voodoo MBC mounted on fender, set to 15psi (never removed it when I went EBC)
Spec Stg II Kevlar w/15k miles (a full job, all seals etc. changed when installed)
94+ Brake Upgrade w/OEM blanks, Hawk HPS pads, Goodridge Braided Lines
Advanced Autosports Uber-Clutch-Line (replaces curly-q stock piece), brand new slave cylinder
KYB AGX 8-ways w/about 100k
Autopower Custom Rollbar (rear braces custom bent to allow extra seat) SFI padding + Leather Cover
RB solid front/rear sways w/front reinforcer
KK front K-member brace and rear lower A-arm brace
Tranny filled with Royal Purple, Dif filled with some exotic Caterpillar transmission oil recommended by Dennstedts of San Diego.
Heater core lines heat-shielded
Heater core pipe from 80’s Escort for better DP clearance
Single-Piece lower radiator hose
Parallel Fan Mod
All metal OEM automatic radiator
5yr old Pioneer CD deck
Lightning 6.5” 3-way door speakers
Clearwater headrest speakers
XM antenna mounted to rollbar and wire routed (no other XM harware included)
Charcoal Canister removed
Intake manifold brace removed
New fuel filter
Valve cover painted crinkle-black
There are probably a few things I’m forgetting, will update as I remember.
The previous motor started as a full bandaid setup, made 180whp, swapped to Megasquirt and shortly after blew the HG at 150k. “New” motor out of a ’93 driven by little old lady on 80mile commutes, compression 215-208-210-210 with 258k miles. I bought it from one of the local Miata autocross gurus. I’ve had it boosted for about 5k-6k miles and just burns a little oil (light smoking about 2 minutes after startup when something gets hot) but never after it’s been hot for about 5minutes. It goes through about a quart every 1500miles... most of that through a leaky front main seal. It puts down a single drop every night on the garage floor, but I know it leaks a little more on the road. Last dyno run it made 200whp spiking to 14psi dropping to 12psi by redline. It runs 15psi all the way to redline now… SOTP say 220-230whp. It’s daily driven at 8psi on wastegate, probably in the 170whp range, EBC (via dash switch) comes on for merging and occasional antics. I drive it WELL AWARE of the stock 6” dif. I do not drag or drift, and am very consious about how hard I use the clutch. I think the $25 per quart gear oil in it may also be contributing to its’ longevity.
Needs a minor alignment, pulls very slightly left between about 30-60mph. Tires on car are brand new 195/50/14 Zeix 512’s on factory ’97 wheels. Wheels cosmetically are 8/10. I'm babying it now on these tires... the thing really needs 205's at least to match the power. For my asking price I will include FREE a set of 15x6.5" Konig Heliums with balding Toyo Proxes T1R's that you can throw on a set of 205/50/15 Falken Azenis which are the #1 aftermarket tire/wheel combo for a Miata.
I daily drive the car, it’s my primary transportation, but I’m also a 3-car family, so I’ve got a backup vehicle. Mazda BP motors were designed from the ground up as a forced induction engine... but this thing does have some miles on it. The stock 6" rear dif was never meant to handle this kind of power either... so I treat it with respect. It will last forever if you're mindful of it... or the 94+ 7" Miata differential is a direct swap and will handle 400+whp. I also am including the original partially disassembled motor for free… the head needs resurfacing, and once re-assembled, should go right back in.
Learning how the MS software works so you can tune the thing is your responsibility. I haven't made a tune change in over 6 months. It’s currently running the “Hybrid” spark map that’s widely used among mitaturbo forum-members, and the overall AFR tune is a very conservative 11.5-12.0. The Innovate Motorsports LC1 Wideband is a fantastic tool for tuning if you ever feel the need. You’ll need a laptop w/serial port or USB-adapter and a couple programs downloadable off the internet that I can provide. I’ll include the LC1 box and Logworks software CD as well. In it's current tune, I've never gotten less than 24mpg. I routinely get 26-27 even boosting the crap out of. It will get well over 30mpg on a long freeway drive. Cruise fuel cell tuning is about 15:1 and can be leaned out safely into the 17:1 range... 35mpg on an extended freeway trip is completely possible.
Currently with clean Florida title and registered there (I make no statement whatsoever about the car’s ability to pass emissions. It has no cat and several pieces of factory smog equipment removed).
Overall, the car is really damn fast. At 2150lbs and 230whp, you can do the math... but any stock Mustang/Camaro/350Z/S2000/STi/EVO/anything FWD... gonna be behind you the instant you hit boost in 2nd. The Miata is legendary on the track, and this car has the suspension and power to roll over just about anything short of a fully set-up track car.
Lotsa Photobucket Pics:
Cash or bank-draft ONLY!
Email/PM me your info and any questions if you're interested. -Sam