1.6L 2560r record attempt
02-17-2013, 06:56 PM
#261
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- just kidding, anyone from the land of "Crushed Vowels" is welcome in Australia, it gives us something to laugh about.
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02-18-2013, 02:56 AM
#263
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Ok here are the aero results., not QUITE finished but a good effort for one day I think.
The car has a garage Vary lip but not anymore.
Angle grinder.
Rivnuts (nutserts) and flush allen key hardware, 10.9 tensile.
Using a pair of factory M6 threads and another 2 rivnuts in the subframe.
Rough cut 1/2" ply.
I weight 100kg and you can stand on the ****, and even bounce on it.
The front most bracket, rivnuts in the body and rivnuts in this bracket.
Waiting for the rest of the pics to upload so there will be a post No. 2.
Dann
The car has a garage Vary lip but not anymore.
Angle grinder.
Rivnuts (nutserts) and flush allen key hardware, 10.9 tensile.
Using a pair of factory M6 threads and another 2 rivnuts in the subframe.
Rough cut 1/2" ply.
I weight 100kg and you can stand on the ****, and even bounce on it.
The front most bracket, rivnuts in the body and rivnuts in this bracket.
Waiting for the rest of the pics to upload so there will be a post No. 2.
Dann
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02-18-2013, 03:19 AM
#264
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-
Steel flatbar to reinforce the bottom of the PVC front bar. The black plastic just in front of the tyre was removed after this shot.
Cutting out the wood for a rough starting shape, after the rear wing has been given proper sized endplates, the front splitter will be cut down until the front/rear downforce is similar.
Front bar PVC sheet clamped on test fitting, ready for nuts bolts and white sikaflex.
The wing mount, this MAY stay permanent depending how well it works, the boot has been braced with 3mm steel plate.
Top bolts in and cutting the excess.
The removed the protective layer to reveal nice shiny white PVC front bar.
Here it is almost done, I drove it like this.
Check the phone, yeh its pretty low. Should be efficient.
It needs the flat bar bonded and bolted to the bottom and a pair of braces for the widest points of the splitter.
I intend to take a sawzall to the track and cut the splitter down until front/rear downforce bias is neutral.
Its very low, check the picture with the phone on the ground to show its height, this is a big screen LG phone. Its about 80mm.
The owner will make cardboard templates for the radiator/IC ducting and I will make it and fit it (more rivnuts).
The intake opening was just rough cut so it could be driven. I threw in some extra fuel to get it driveable and check everything worked right.
Its is the most responsive car Ive ever driven, its great, Im super super happy with it. On 10 PSI with 17x9 slicks It spins 3rd no hastles at all. They were cold though.
Its telepathic in boost reposnse and spins 2nd from 2500rpm so low/mid torque is great.
Dyno by the weekend.
Dann
Steel flatbar to reinforce the bottom of the PVC front bar. The black plastic just in front of the tyre was removed after this shot.
Cutting out the wood for a rough starting shape, after the rear wing has been given proper sized endplates, the front splitter will be cut down until the front/rear downforce is similar.
Front bar PVC sheet clamped on test fitting, ready for nuts bolts and white sikaflex.
The wing mount, this MAY stay permanent depending how well it works, the boot has been braced with 3mm steel plate.
Top bolts in and cutting the excess.
The removed the protective layer to reveal nice shiny white PVC front bar.
Here it is almost done, I drove it like this.
Check the phone, yeh its pretty low. Should be efficient.
It needs the flat bar bonded and bolted to the bottom and a pair of braces for the widest points of the splitter.
I intend to take a sawzall to the track and cut the splitter down until front/rear downforce bias is neutral.
Its very low, check the picture with the phone on the ground to show its height, this is a big screen LG phone. Its about 80mm.
The owner will make cardboard templates for the radiator/IC ducting and I will make it and fit it (more rivnuts).
The intake opening was just rough cut so it could be driven. I threw in some extra fuel to get it driveable and check everything worked right.
Its is the most responsive car Ive ever driven, its great, Im super super happy with it. On 10 PSI with 17x9 slicks It spins 3rd no hastles at all. They were cold though.
Its telepathic in boost reposnse and spins 2nd from 2500rpm so low/mid torque is great.
Dyno by the weekend.
Dann
Last edited by nitrodann; 02-18-2013 at 03:47 AM.
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02-18-2013, 07:08 PM
#270
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yeah everyone says that stuff.
If the car didnt have number plates everyone says it looks hardcore and great but when you do this to a road car all the FnF comments come out :P
Dann
If the car didnt have number plates everyone says it looks hardcore and great but when you do this to a road car all the FnF comments come out :P
Dann
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02-18-2013, 07:15 PM
#271
Just kidding with you! I love that you are pushing the 1.6 and 2560 just because...
Personally, i think the front air dam threw the car into the rice age, and I don't think it matches the quality of the rest of the build, but it should help aero at the expense of engine cooling. That hot air intake will really be pulling high temp air now!
Dyno yet??
Personally, i think the front air dam threw the car into the rice age, and I don't think it matches the quality of the rest of the build, but it should help aero at the expense of engine cooling. That hot air intake will really be pulling high temp air now!
Dyno yet??
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02-18-2013, 07:22 PM
#272
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Why do you think it wont help cooling?
Thats a big motivator for the front end, also, what do you suggest if not this front end to achieve similar results?
As for the rest of the turbo bits, none of that is bling, its as quality as I could make it. Its 100% performance only.
Same with the front end.
But seriously, if you were chasing lap records what front end would you do?
This is what 'Crusher' and 'Theseus' has.
Dann
Thats a big motivator for the front end, also, what do you suggest if not this front end to achieve similar results?
As for the rest of the turbo bits, none of that is bling, its as quality as I could make it. Its 100% performance only.
Same with the front end.
But seriously, if you were chasing lap records what front end would you do?
This is what 'Crusher' and 'Theseus' has.
Dann
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02-18-2013, 07:28 PM
#273
I can't really say what would be better- I'm a long way from an aero expert. I just looked again at your pics- I was looking at the first few (before you cut the vent in the center) and was concerned about airflow. Now that I see the inlet, I might consider a heat extractor to improve flow out?
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02-18-2013, 07:33 PM
#274
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Like the 3 hood vents in the low pressure zone on the hood shown in every picture 
Also check this thread regarding drag and downforce.
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-height-70456/
Are the CFD analysis on this front end compared to other popular options, its very legit.
Dann
Also check this thread regarding drag and downforce.
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-height-70456/
Are the CFD analysis on this front end compared to other popular options, its very legit.
Dann
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02-18-2013, 08:55 PM
#277
Ummmmm- because the OP asked me to? I know reading for comprehension is hard.
I posted that I thought it looked ricey (this from a guy who recently installed his projectors...) and the rest of the build looked better than the front air dam. Dann clearly has out a lot of thought into his build.
Opinions are like... Well you know. Everyone has one. Even you.
I posted that I thought it looked ricey (this from a guy who recently installed his projectors...) and the rest of the build looked better than the front air dam. Dann clearly has out a lot of thought into his build.
Opinions are like... Well you know. Everyone has one. Even you.
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02-18-2013, 09:00 PM
#279
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While I don't agree that it's rice, I do agree it doesn't match the quality of the rest of the build.
The radiator opening is poorly cut along with the lower edge, and the sharp corners of the splitter look akward. I love a good plywood splitter, that is not one.
The radiator opening is poorly cut along with the lower edge, and the sharp corners of the splitter look akward. I love a good plywood splitter, that is not one.
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02-18-2013, 09:12 PM
#280
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Curly also not reading for comprehension.
The splitter was cut with a circular saw, one that does not cut curves.
I also said at the track it will be cut with a reciprocating saw to a proper shape after testing to find the right aero balance. for now it was cut to a rough shape that is at least 2" too big in all directions.
Also its not jagged at the bottom the splitter was painted with 1/5th of a remaining can of spray using a flat object to mask the bar, its the paint that is jagged not the front bar. Also the bar in one pic is bent Backwards at the bottom in a rippled fashion due to not having the lower brace on yet and having been driven.
Also, again not reading the hole was rough cut just so the car can be driven, it cannot be finished until the car goes to the track.
if I just cut the splitter and front bar hole now without doing it live, at the track how can I know its right?
Hence rough cuts.
Dann
The splitter was cut with a circular saw, one that does not cut curves.
I also said at the track it will be cut with a reciprocating saw to a proper shape after testing to find the right aero balance. for now it was cut to a rough shape that is at least 2" too big in all directions.
Also its not jagged at the bottom the splitter was painted with 1/5th of a remaining can of spray using a flat object to mask the bar, its the paint that is jagged not the front bar. Also the bar in one pic is bent Backwards at the bottom in a rippled fashion due to not having the lower brace on yet and having been driven.
Also, again not reading the hole was rough cut just so the car can be driven, it cannot be finished until the car goes to the track.
if I just cut the splitter and front bar hole now without doing it live, at the track how can I know its right?
Hence rough cuts.
Dann
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