martboy21

Hi guys posted before but it got deleted :(

Ok I've built a turbo kit for my 1992 eunos roadster

Consists of a td04l 13t on a home built log mani and home made 2.5" downpipe

At the moment I'm running a jackson racing rrfpr and set at 6tdc. Car was making 6psi and was seeing 11-12 afr at wot

Recently I added an intercooler and 7-8 miles later I have major issues.

Before I go any further I'm getting mapped on a unichip q and rx8 injectors but want to resolve the issue I'm having now so that when I go for mapping my mapper starts fitting and we have a whole host of problems

Now I have a thread open on mx5nutz but seeing as you guys are the turbo gurus I thought I'd ask here.

Basically I can't go into boost without goin mega lean regardless of boost or revs . At first I could get a nice rich afr at wot over 5k

Tried posting all replies on here from nutz but got deleted so I'll just post the link

Please help a fellow na6 owner out :(

Link


Td04L Turbo Diy Install Going Lean At 4K Then Rich At Wot - Problems - MX5Nutz Forum

Link to the build thread

My Diy Td04L Turbo Build... Now Complete! - Forced Induction & N/A Power Mods - MX5Nutz Forum

soviet

iTrader: (10)

so you're running some shitty engine management and expect to have good results?

martboy21

No not all at. Quite clearly said I am waiting to have it mapped. But a problem is a problem and it needs to be fixed before I take the car there

If someone says it is categorically the rrfpr and nothing else then fine I'll rip the piece of **** off . Get my injectors and go get it mapped.

My point was it was fine now it's not. There has been no changes other than an intercooler. I haven't upped the boost or run it lean.

Have you read the thread? It explains alot more

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Check all your vacuum lines. I've had my tune change literally overnight from vac lines break/disconnecting.

martboy21

I've replaced all vacuum lines from the standard fpr to Jackson racing rrfpr. Replaced actuator to turbo line. There nothing else on the inlet I can find that's not replaced

It's not a boost leak as I took of the whole intercooler and went back to the stock crossover and still the same

Not sure where else I could check bro

Thanks

martboy21

Also I might add. When I wire the wastegate open so the turbo builds no boost the car drives absolutely fine. No hesitations right up to redline, half throttle or wot ?

Cheers

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Something is keeping your fpr from getting a boost signal(or however they work). I had my signal line get kinked to my powercard when I had that and the symptoms were the same. Then when I got my megasquirt my vacuum signal line broke at a connector. I couldn't figure it out for like 2 days until I finally found it. My mechanic suggested a stethoscope with the top popped off to listen for leaks with the engine running.

martboy21

Some reason I'm double posting?

It lost my last post. ??

I've checked for leaks and have replaced all pipes.

I had a problem before with a leaking pipe on the bottom of the inlet manifold. A piped popped off which caused hell but foundthat . I can't hear anything but I'll check tomorrow whilst idling

Cheers for the help

martboy21

Ok so today I've wound the rrfpr adjustment in which in turn makes it overfuel . However 1st and 2nd were absolutely fine straight from cold. was seein 11-12s on my wideband and then went 13-14 in third.tried again in first and second but still lean. But not as much. Now increasing the pressure has worked a bit but it will still go lean.

This leads me to believe either one of three possibly 4 faulty things

Rrfpr
Fuel pump
Injectors

This is good news to degree however why'd it start leaning out again I dont know.

What you guys think?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

If you increased the fuel pressure and that made it better than its not the fuel pump. If it was increasing the pressure with the adjustment screw wouldn't actually increase the pressure.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

When adding an intercooler you get a denser charge at the same manifold pressure. That's one of the more important benefits of adding an intercooler. That denser charge requires more fuel. -> add fuel!

martboy21

I agree mate however the car ran fine without adjustment after
The intercooler was fitted. Its making less boost with the intercooler (pressure drop) but isn't fuelling enough and going lean

I would understand if my boost gauge flew off the handle to 20 odd psi but it's not

Cheers

martboy21

If I've read that right it's not meant to adjust base idle or is it? It's idling at 10 on the wideband however after a few gear changes At wot it starts to go back to running lean again.

The rrfpr doesn't look damaged nor does any of the diaphragm Look split or perforated when I took it apart.

Do I go for a new walbro fuel pump or should I try a new rrfpr?
Cheers

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I think you should try a megasquirt.

curly

iTrader: (25)

For MS, we usually don't suggest a new fuel pump. However with your bandaids, we do. Since you're increasing fuel pressure instead of increasing injector size, a lot more is asked of your fuel pump. Much like if you did run MS, we'd suggest you rebuild your injectors.

Check your fuel pressure. Put a gauge in line with the feed line, and crimp off the return line. Read BEGI's instructions on checking and setting base/boost fuel pressure, and make sure your fuel pump is working correctly.

martboy21

Thanks mate, yes I'll be ordering an inline fuel pressure gauge so that I can test. I think its the pump so will order a 190 walbro.

I'm only going to be running a piggyback so I'm limited to the supra green tops right. A stock pump won't apply enough pressure for 12-14 psi will it? I'm thinking if I get the 190 HP then I have head room to force more fuel through the supra injectors?

Thanks

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Don't say this on m.net, they will argue this fact with you.

There are members there under the impression the biggest gain is from the temperature decrease. And while that is nice for knock suppression, it's the density where gains are made. more oxygen per volume to burn in a cylinder = bigger boom.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

Mhm. And women are smarter than men. The earth is a disc. Bowling Green, KY is at the center of that disc.

mx5-kiwi

Just a thought from a different angle...

are you sure your AFR doesn't need recalibrating...for whatever reason?

martboy21

I wish it did buddy :( nah it's brand new covered only a couple of hundred miles also I've tried so many other things that it only creates power/boost when fuel is added and it shows rich on wb.

I guess by tightening the rrfpr so much it's kept so much fuel in the system that when I accelerated there was "enough" for the 4 psi I'm throwing at it

My target on this project is sensible power. I'm not looking to run the car at its maximum. I mean id love to run big power but I don't have the cash to keep upgrading absolutely everything and I don't want to replace pistons and have to get rebuilt engines etc

To be honest I'd me more than happy at 10-12psi i think. Some good power without taking the ****.

I think this can be achieved with my unichip piggyback.

The project was more of a "can I do it" and yes I have just need to finish

So for 10-12 psi not using megasquirt and only a piggyback can somebody tell me my requirements please

Here's what I think

Supra green tops
New fuel pump (advise please)
Unichip
02 clamp. (Is this a must for my target)

Would 12psi on td04l with 2.5 dp intercooled

Make 200 rwhp or am I being optimistic

Cheers