speedf50

iTrader: (2)

Its been a while since I had my last turbo at my house, and that didn't end too well (sent back to FM to pay for another car after totaling my first miata).

But I have finally started by build/getting parts together process. I guess this will be my build thread, but it will take quite a while with work and school.

So far I picked up some great deals on the major parts, pictures for your viewing pleasure:
The car the stuff is going on,


3" cat back and 2" to 2.5" downpipe


Strange DP that is worryingly small at the top.


Dent in exhaust, I think I can just bang that out.


Turbo Fun, oil lines, tubular manifold, elbows, gasket, srcrew/bolts


A turbo... can anyone give me some more info from this picture?


It needs a new compressor turbine, the previous owner used this one to grind up old cell phones.



I also have a MSPNP on the way to take care of engine management, but a shortlist of the parts I am still in the process of getting:

E-bay over the rad intercooler+ piping
BOV (again e-bay)
Turbo rebuild Kit and new compressor turbine
AEM wideband
Boost gauge
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch
460cc RX7 injectors
New oil fitting on turbo (broken off)

Looks like a complete list?

I'm still a ways off, but this is a start, and I can't wait to get the MS to lvl my tuning abilities.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Sounds good so far, I cringed at the compressor wheel pic.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

kind of odd seeing gran tourismo cover shot laying next to a 360

nice parts, and it does seem that the downpipe diameter gets smaller near the flange

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

oh yeah +1,000,000

Brian-bbc

iTrader: (3)

nice looks good

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Compressor looks shot, and its a small turbo to boot.

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

That is a worry of mine, does it really look that small? I'm still playing with the idea of dropping this turbo and picking up a larger T25, but getting another t25 would be hard to do, knowing that I eventually want to go BB 2560 or 2860 (because I use goats **** for gas in CA).

The downpipe perplexes me, I just can't see why they used 2" piping to start, then quickly step up to 2.5" and eventually 3" This wouldn't be too hard to change, although I think that the 2" section is so short that it shouldn't hurt flow too much, plus all of the transitions in diameter are to larger sizes.

Haha, I didn't think anyone would notice the 360 with the GT4 book. GT4, still the best racing sim bar none!


ca18det: Go the the intro section and introduce yourself before it gets ugly.

Sam Amporful

iTrader: (13)

Forza FTW

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

Can you or anyone else give me some more info on this turbo? I was looking into it, and from what I see it isn't really that small, but I don't have much reference. I believe/hope it's an s14 turbo, but I can only find out so much info from the stamps on the compressor housing (a/r60, m24 1-1).

Should I look for another turbo? I wanted to go with a slightly large turbo to cope with the cali pee pee I run, so if this is super tiny, please let me know.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I'm no expert at ID'ing Garrett turbos by sight, but you're going to be dismantling the unit to replace the wheel anyway, right? Go ahead and pull that thing apart, get out the calipers and start making measurements. Here's a quick idiot's guide to how the Garrett numbering system works: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...gt_basics.html

With that info, you should be able to narrow it down considerably by comparing to the various specs available through this page: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ochargers.html
(clicking on any givem model number gets you most of the key dimensions for that turbo)

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for those pages, I guess I'll just bite the bullet and start pulling the turbo apart measuring as I go along, and order a rebuild kit in the near future.

The MS is still on its way, and I think I have enough saved up for an AEM wideband now.

So any thoughts on the 2" to 2.5" to 3" DP and exhaust? Does anyone think that 2" section could be a problem?

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

ive got a ziplock full of weed today. i win!

Laur3ns

BEGi (3") downpipes also start small and get larger down stream. The bullet is to increase radius gradually (as per Maximum Boost by Mr. Bell). If the turbine outlet is only 2"-ish, then a starting ID of 2" for the down pipe seems right.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Looks like the turbo from a SR20. You talk with gpopshop.com for further info and replacement parts, I'd be afraid the turbine shaft is bent as well.

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

And I assume that if the shaft was bent it would be pretty obvious? The turbo spins fine as it is, and doesn't actually hit the housing. There seems to be no side to side shaft play, and just a little bit of front to back. I'll call gpopshop next week and see what they think, thanks for the link.

With that in mind... It would almost make more sense to try to sell this turbo for close to nothing, and pick up another sr20 turbo for cheap. Between the rebuild kit, shipping, and the compressor turbine, the price may work out to be the same as a cheap used turbo, although if I rebuilt this one I'd have a nice rebuilt turbo instead of a used beat up one.

And Slava... we need to do some work on your car before all of that is gone.

superman with heat

iTrader: (7)

whats up kost....might i suggest www.adpturbochargers.com they have a facility in el monte....side note, your way ahead of me now...i still have only the snail lol but congrats, you're gonna have to give me a ride once its done

superman with heat

iTrader: (7)

oh yeah...if you decide to get rid of that snail..ill purchase the complete wastegate of you..keep that in mind

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

Well, update, I pulled the compressor housing and measured the diameter of the compressor wheel. It appears to be ~60mm, designating the turbo as either gt2560 or gt2860, both of which would be good sizes for my application. I attempted to pull the exhaust housing too, but I encountered one bolt that would NOT come off, so I gave up after a while.

With this in mind, I think I'll try picking up another comp. wheel and throwing it on. If the seals are all totally shot, I'll have only spent about $60 anyways, and if they are ok, then I'll have spent $60 to make the turbo work.

I also noticed that there are four holes in the center of the turbo, designated for what I would believe to be water and oil cooling. Is this normal for journal bearing turbos?

Turbo_4

iTrader: (6)

What manifold is that?

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

The manifold was built by a place called South Florida Performance, who I know next to nothing about, but it looks very nice. I'll find out soon enough if its crap or not.

And after doing some research it appears as if the turbo that I have is a T28 off of an S14 SR20. The only thing that is throwing me is that in some pictures of S14 turbos the 1-1 mark on the compressor housing is the same, and on others the mark reads 1-2 instead. The rest of the compressor and exhaust housing pictures I have seen look identical with all of the same marks and sizes, along with having the same sized compressor turbine(60mm), and what I think is the same sized exhaust turbine (like i said, the damn housing would NOT come off).

So if this is the case, then I should actually have a ball bearing turbo on my hands. Like I said the shaft play seems non-existent, but I did notice some oil in the compressor turbine when I took it off. Does this mean that the seals are shot inside of the turbo? Or could the oil have gotten there from other means (shipping, being left sitting for a long period of time, coming from a car that was flipped)?

If I can I'll use this turbo, as it is exactly the size that I want, and if the seals are ok, then all I'll need is a new compressor and to send it to be balanced. What do you guys think about the condition of this turbo? Does oil in the compressor mean dead for sure? Is it worth trying to save?