Braineack

iTrader: (62)

and im sure you've run through this right?

Megasquirt Serial Setup

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

...probably would help if my battery was hooked up. I also submitted my application for R-tard of the year award, they said they couldn't accept it because I bring down the name of R-tards everywhere.

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure i got this down but need to make sure,
Red-Key on power
Black-Ground
White-White O2 sensor wire
Blue-Not used

It's an AEM UEGO

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

Runs like a champ...Except the whole 10.0 afr @ idle. I think I'm a tune away from a whole car.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Are you tuning manually at idle?

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

Im only the base tune that came preloaded on megasquirt, I did set the gm iat and set the setting for wideband

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

So thats what I got, I finished way behind scedule, dyno day is May 3

calcard94

Is your wastegate pressure source post-throttle body? Some argue that vacuum is damaging for the diaphragm and the pressure drop across the intercooler can cause an unreliable signal.

Does the compressor housing have a place for a fitting?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I can't speak to the "vacuum can damage the can" argument (never heard that one before), but for optimal performance, the signal MUST be taken from a point after the intercooler. Pressure drop across the intercooler increases as a function of mass flow, and you want to account for that in the boost control. Far from being "unreliable," a post-intercooler source is far more stable (with regard to MAP) than a pre-intercooler source.

While most turbochargers can accommodate a wastegate signal directly at the compressor, this is the worst possible location to take it from.

For more information, read: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...eed-ebc-47532/



EDIT: didn't mean to **** on your first post after 2 years lurking. Welcome.

calcard94

I've seen it in a few places, including stickies in other forums such as The basics of boost control, wastegates and how to turn up the boost.
"Allowing a diaphragm-type wastegate to see boost and vacuum in quick succession or vacuum at all will wreak havoc on the diaphragm. The diaphragm is not designed to see vacuum or cycle between vacuum and boost. I'm not sure how much this shortens the life of the diaphragm, but the wear is significant."

It may be rubbish.. but it was something that I once read and clearly took it as truth. It sounds like you've had experience to the contrary?

Ha. As a long time lurker, I well expected my early posts to be shot down. How could I possibly start contributing value without having first been hazed?

I may need to reconsider my own set up then.. Many kits off the shelf have you reference from the compressor housing.. I feel like it wouldn't be difficult to have a boost source tapped into the cold side cooler piping, so why don't manufacturers do this? (Begi's AO kit, for instance, ships with a hose barb for the comp housing).

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

No experience, only theory.

I actually agree with you that the wastegate signal should not be taken post-throttle, but for an entirely unrelated reason: this setup disassociates the effective maximum boost setpoint (pre-TB) from the actual manifold pressure (post-TB) and does nothing but generate surplus heat and waste energy when you're operating the engine at part-throttle under sustained heavy load (eg: driving up a hill in steady cruise.)



Most, perhaps nearly all turbochargers come with this fitting. Why? It's cheap, it's convenient, and if you're using an electronic boost controller then it's a fine place to source the operating pressure from. And it doesn't cause any harm per se (to the contrary, it's nearly idiot-proof), it just causes MAP to taper off as RPM increases. If you want to avoid that, then you take the pressure reference from a point as near to the throttle body as possible.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I like this guy. Subscribed.

mazpr

iTrader: (1)

A T3/T4 is fine, I ran it on a BP with 10.0@1 pistons. Good for cruisin and a beast at 15 psi on a .63 outlet.

Yes, the aluminum pulley, throw it away, get the best harmonic balancer possible. When I did my swap I forgot I had a aluminum pulley from my NA build.
Blew up oil pump within 2 months, lost complete engine, metal gears got into the engine, crank, oil pan, a disaster.

I dont have the car anymore, but I recommend high compression with a T3/T4, forged rods, and a good tune, MS, etc.

omnia

Is your intercooler pipe coming up between the radiator and sway bar? Some argue you are at risk of having the piping chewed through. And your intake temps might suffer.

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

It is between the swaybar, only fitment I could find. Temps will suffer a little, I'm averaging +20 degrees, ie 64 outside yesterday 84 iat

90civichhb

iTrader: (5)

You may want to consider moving your Wideband O2 sensor. Most manufactures want you to place it further down the exhaust.

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

So on my first logging run I hit 137 kpa@6800, which is pretty much 20 psi so I went in and set my boost limit to 111 kpa(about 6500 rpm) to keep from burning my motor before I dyno it. Needless to say, it works, just don't know how well for how long.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Are you subtracting 100 KPA for atmo? Cuz if not, 137 KPA is like... Not a lot of boost...

Pretending2koolz

iTrader: (1)

I am not, but I dont know if it figures for that in the logger....so here is this...

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you're running less than 6 psi