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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-27-2012, 11:56 AM   #181
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Now that I think about it, I may have ordered the .64A/R, but the turbo has a .82 on it. I have to check my notes when I get back to work.
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:24 PM   #182
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oh lawd, finally some pictars.
sexy sexy churbo you got there
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:43 PM   #183
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Wow, I did not know Precision was doing their own V-band housings now.

Tim, awesome awesome awesome
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
oh lawd, finally some pictars.
sexy sexy churbo you got there
Churbo?! Didn't know that but that's not unusual in this day and age. I've always used genuine garretts so this is a gamble. We'll see I guess.

Their vband band clamps/hardware are made in the USA.

Interesting read, not sure when it was published. I do know Precision had some issues a couple years ago when they separated from Garrett and had to quickly source components (from turbonectics, etc), and their reliability suffered. But they supposedly fixed all that. I'm not too concerned.
http://turbodirect.co.za/site/index....=709&Itemid=21

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Wow, I did not know Precision was doing their own V-band housings now.

Tim, awesome awesome awesome
I didn't know either until I saw their booth at PRI. They had stainless vbands on display but when I ordered the turbo they said they didn't have them available yet. Dimensions seems to be the same as the tial pieces; I do not have any tial turbine housings here to compare directly. For a non-stainless cast piece it is just as smooth inside as the tial turbine. Much smoother than a garrett piece which again is much smoother than a chinese piece.
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:04 PM   #185
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I cannot wait to see the results.
From what i have seen in person which is about 10 builds that used precision turbos, i would not use a journal bearing precision. However i have yet to witness a failure from a ball bearing unit first hand.
At least half of the people i know who used a journal bearing had bearing failure within 6 months. My close friends k20 civic has a 6765 ball bearing and that has been doing great as well as my other friends bb 7675 on a mustang for just over a year now.
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:07 PM   #186
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LOL Tim, I didn't mean "churbo" as in "chinacharger turbo" or "knockoff"

Precision is fine, yes they've had issues in the past but these days everyone and their monther is running one with great results and no issues so Im sure the product is good quality.
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:16 PM   #187
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So is that turbine housing cast stainless, or just cast steel? Weighs less than the cast iron i take it.

I wouldn't bother running smaller than .82 a/r anyways. You won't gain any response or spool, and simply limit your top end power.
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:25 PM   #188
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It is not stainless. I am not sure what material it is however. Iron I assume.

I am thinking the same about the A/R. If it's silly laggy then I'll think about trying the smaller ratio. Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:52 PM   #189
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I don't know how I missed this thread, but I am now subscribing to it. Great build, Tim!
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:39 PM   #190
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I just bought the Precision 5858 V-banded, and .64 A/R. I think it's going to be the best choice for mid 500's whp.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:13 PM   #191
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Holy Shitznit, my heads are on their way back to me after 4 months. Now I can actually start mocking up motor mounts.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:23 PM   #192
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Hopefully it'll be worth the wait
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:43 PM   #193
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Hopefully it'll be worth the wait
Lol, Tim will come through. Unlike my long paused VQ build has
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:59 PM   #194
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Actually I am quickly loosing heart in this entire thing. haha. $6200 into it already and I still need to buy big ticket items like six ID850 injectors and whatever rear differential kit I decide to go with. FTL!

First baby on the way too, ETA mid September. FTW!

I'm thinking the 3.90 torsen will be just fine but I'll have to find a way to support the nose of it without a PPF. Or I may go with a 7.5" ford diff kit from Martin/monster miata but have a hard time seeing how that's so much stronger than a 7" miata diff. Thoughts??

The news wackjob last night said gas will be $5/gal by Memorial Day. Full-suck.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:04 PM   #195
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I sold off my 1.8 stuff and am just going with basically free (so cheap) rx7 clutch lsd rearends... replace 2 bushings and make a front mount to just use the full rx7 housing.

When I actually get back to my build, I only have 2 major expenses left. Custom driveshaft and ECU reflash/reprogram.

I thankfully got all my spending done awhile ago... and thankfully it was only a couple thousand.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:18 PM   #196
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The 7.5" Ford diff is ***** in a Ford. I don't see why it wouldn't be ***** in a Miata.

An 8.8 on the other hand is nigh indestructible, and should fit into the same envelope as a 7.5 in almost all ways...
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #197
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I would do the CTS rear before the 8.8. Similar cost. 7.5 is more affordable.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:26 PM   #198
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The CTS guys destroy their Getrag rear ends pretty regularly, too. Of course they weigh twice what a Miata does, so there's some obvious headroom there.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:28 PM   #199
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Actual question is:

How much stronger is the 7.5" ford diff compared tot he 7" miata diff?

I don't think anyone knows that answer.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:39 PM   #200
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Complete FC turbo drivetrain here. 8" differential. PPF eliminated in favour of custom tranny and diff mounts.
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