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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-20-2012, 03:59 PM   #201
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Why don't people use an FD diff? They already use a PPF, and they're an R230, i.e. a 9.1" ring gear. They should be indestructible... you'd have to fab a rear bridge to use Miata diff mount spacing, and probably a power plant frame, but it really shouldn't be rocket science...
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:02 PM   #202
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As far as to answer your original question, I don't know how to quantify how strong either diff really is. I've heard of people breaking stock Miata diffs at stock power levels, and I've heard of 7.5s living in Mustangs up to 400+hp for a while. I've also heard of the exact opposite. I'd put the stock 3.90 diff back in your car and see what happens if it were me. If you go out trying to break it, you will, but if you drive it like a human being, you may never have an issue...
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:29 PM   #203
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Again, i am most certain that the 1.8 diff is strong enough for 350 plus wtq, however I believe the worm gear start shearing in the torsen unit somewhere near 300 wtq. Its in a thread on m.net, I just haven't located it.

I would think you will have no issues driving it sensibly, even at much higher power levels, but it may only last one good launch, then blow she goes...

Hell, look at failflop, he's making a bajillion horsepower, with videos to prove it, and his is still intact.


Edit: found it http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=315963
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:45 PM   #204
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Tim just uae the miata torsen. If i can do it so can you. Besides you know you will just part it out in 2000 miles nyways
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:15 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glade View Post
Again, i am most certain that the 1.8 diff is strong enough for 350 plus wtq, however I believe the worm gear start shearing in the torsen unit somewhere near 300 wtq. Its in a thread on m.net, I just haven't located it.

I would think you will have no issues driving it sensibly, even at much higher power levels, but it may only last one good launch, then blow she goes...

Hell, look at failflop, he's making a bajillion horsepower, with videos to prove it, and his is still intact.


Edit: found it http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=315963
failfloral isn't making impressive HP until we see a dyno. Otherwise, it's just noise. I'll check out that link in a minute. Thanks!

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Tim just uae the miata torsen. If i can do it so can you. Besides you know you will just part it out in 2000 miles nyways
Oh heya Fai Theoretically I should make more torque than you, but I probably won't ever get there. Another reason to keep the 3.90.

But damn, I was looking forward to the 3.42 CTS diff. The ratios are already silly with the 1.8 powa.

Megan says do it right the first time.

Oh, and I'll probably sell it before I reach 2000miles. I don't think I'll enjoy daily driving a racespec 2618 piston/wall clearance. Or I will find another $500 junkyard engine (coincidentally what the head job cost), leave it stock internally and swap that in there. That would have been smarter.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:59 PM   #206
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Quote:
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Otherwise, it's just noise.
Assuming equivalent exhausts and motors,


more noise is more power!!!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:21 PM   #207
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True Fae! VTA EWG?

Thinking about how to locate the miata diff without a PPF. There's an idea from a F20c guy.

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Old 02-20-2012, 10:37 PM   #208
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come on tim, you can weld aluminum. weld up your own PPF with custom mounting points on the drivetrain.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:35 AM   #209
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If you use a V6 F-body tailshaft housing, it will have the torque arm mount on it already. I imagine it would be pretty easy to build a PPF off of that...
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:29 PM   #210
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This looks pretty easy.

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Old 02-21-2012, 04:18 PM   #211
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is that strong enough? oh wait yeah, the wing mounts are still there right?
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:24 PM   #212
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Yep, wingadig is still there.

Strong enough? A long torque arm/ppf is better but obviously not as simple at that heimjoint solution. i can make it more strong-looking than that pic. And by that I mean cleaner and Tigged. The lower bolt is still cantilevered though
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:26 PM   #213
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when I first looked at it I thought that was holding up the entire rear section...I'm fail.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:30 PM   #214
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It's in compression. The body of the joint i'd do as one piece of probably some tool steel we have here, not that snot of weld there in the middle. You'd want it as short as possible too.

The heim makes it simple to adjust pinion angle too. Win.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:09 PM   #215
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But it has to be purple.
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:46 AM   #216
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I think it's hood rich. Using a chopped up PPF as a diff mount just feels half *** to me. The subframe not being designed to be loaded in the middle of the front span, and the bolt being loaded in single sheer not withstanding.



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But it has to be purple.
Don't listen to this guy.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:16 AM   #217
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Cheerio Tim. We--of the Spear-Danes in the days of yore--say thou shall put a thick-*** plate between thee darn trans and diff. Thee shall henseforth welds that shiz up; thou shall make haste and throve in honours--bright fire ball in the sky.

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Old 02-22-2012, 08:58 AM   #218
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B- for effort, B+ for idea Fae.
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:36 AM   #219
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lawl.
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:26 AM   #220
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I have essentially done something similar to that photo above albeit with a Ford Explorer housing (Ford 8.8" carrier). It works great, no issues.

I think what is shown in that picture would be fine. Personally I would use poly diff bushings. As far as single shear on the bolt, use a large grade 8 bolt, properly torqued, and it will be plenty strong. An aluminum doubler plate welded onto the cut PPF at the heim joint attachment point would help with load distribution, but I'll guess it is not strictly required.

I agree, I also like the easy driveshaft angle adjustment with the heim joint. That is a win.
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