ABSURDflow Turbo KLDE Mazda V6 Thread
08-16-2012, 09:08 AM
#381
Ooooo.... So you're saying the late 626 block doesn't have the squirters and already has large feeds?
Ok, so that's what i'm going to need for the next motor, thank you! (I have 12:1 pistons and Mustang stoker I-Beams, just picked up some ginormous cams that i'm going to slap in the Milly heads for now.) I'm probably going to end up trying to stretch it to 10-10.5k and get a shorter final drive in there.
FWIW, "leo323" is spinning his KL to 11.5krpms still with the HLAs. However, i imagine that the HLAs are why his trap speed seems low for his ET. I think the car is falling on its face on the big end due to his lifters collapsing. I do know that the car sounds AWFUL for a little bit after a full quarter mile run.
I'm worried about oiling issues in my case because it turns out my current bottom end is actually a ~93 DE block with ZE 10:1 internals, so probably the most prone to oiling issues. But this is what makes these motors fun... there's so many combinations out there even from Mazda themselves, let alone what you can do on your own. I've got a DE block, ZE internals, 94-95 Millenia oval port heads with the updated lockers, late 626 lifters, and a KLG4 dizzy blockoff plate. (Might want to keep that in mind for future reference, but maybe not since i think i saw a Hall Effect in your thread... i'm just using a KLG4 factory 36-1 trigger wheel on the crank pulley and removing the dizzy entirely.)
PS: When you go to higher RPMS, aftermarket 2.0 DOHC Neon springs and retainers drop in. I like the design of the Supertech Ti stuff with the dual springs a bit better than the insane seat pressure the Interprep springs give.
Ok, so that's what i'm going to need for the next motor, thank you! (I have 12:1 pistons and Mustang stoker I-Beams, just picked up some ginormous cams that i'm going to slap in the Milly heads for now.) I'm probably going to end up trying to stretch it to 10-10.5k and get a shorter final drive in there.
FWIW, "leo323" is spinning his KL to 11.5krpms still with the HLAs. However, i imagine that the HLAs are why his trap speed seems low for his ET. I think the car is falling on its face on the big end due to his lifters collapsing. I do know that the car sounds AWFUL for a little bit after a full quarter mile run.
I'm worried about oiling issues in my case because it turns out my current bottom end is actually a ~93 DE block with ZE 10:1 internals, so probably the most prone to oiling issues. But this is what makes these motors fun... there's so many combinations out there even from Mazda themselves, let alone what you can do on your own. I've got a DE block, ZE internals, 94-95 Millenia oval port heads with the updated lockers, late 626 lifters, and a KLG4 dizzy blockoff plate. (Might want to keep that in mind for future reference, but maybe not since i think i saw a Hall Effect in your thread... i'm just using a KLG4 factory 36-1 trigger wheel on the crank pulley and removing the dizzy entirely.)
PS: When you go to higher RPMS, aftermarket 2.0 DOHC Neon springs and retainers drop in. I like the design of the Supertech Ti stuff with the dual springs a bit better than the insane seat pressure the Interprep springs give.
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08-16-2012, 09:18 AM
#382
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I'm saying I have no idea what car this block came from. Of the two **** motors lying in the dirt at JDMEngineDepot, this was the closest to the trailer.
I went with trackspeed's 12 tooth crank wheel because Andrew already figured it out with the AEM so I had someone to verify my settings. (I actually used AEM's EPM settings.) Single CAS tooth for no reason other than sequential fuel.
Thanks for the heads-up on the neon springs! It's true, hard to believe there are so many possible combinations on this engine seeing how little it was used.
I was shootin **** with the VP here last week, turns out he's friendly with the owner of supertech.
I went with trackspeed's 12 tooth crank wheel because Andrew already figured it out with the AEM so I had someone to verify my settings. (I actually used AEM's EPM settings.) Single CAS tooth for no reason other than sequential fuel.
Thanks for the heads-up on the neon springs! It's true, hard to believe there are so many possible combinations on this engine seeing how little it was used.
I was shootin **** with the VP here last week, turns out he's friendly with the owner of supertech.
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08-17-2012, 11:28 AM
#385
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Started the car last night to warm it up/check hot oil pressure and tune idle. Turns out the port my MAP sensor was connected to isn't connected to the plenum but instead to the EGR tube which is mostly hacksawed off. Attaching it to another port, and the thing idles wonderfully.
The bad:
1. This thing is not smooth. Shakes/vibrates the interior say 2000-4000 rpm. Crank supposedly was balanced but it's one of those things that you have to trust in someone else to do correctly. And the first time he did it was definitely wrong, he took out counterweight even though the forged parts are a bunch heavier than the factory stuff. Seems to smooth out above that but I only blipped it to 6k a few times. Hopefully this is not as noticeable once the car is on the road. I am running miata mazdacomp motor mounts and polyurethane trans mount. I will look into buying oem style/softer mounts.
2. once water temp came up, I now have like 2000 little water leaks everywhere. And at least one oil leak on my remote oil filter housing. Apparently I truely suck welding aluminum! haha.
3. With my IAC disconnected the idle is ~1200. I will fill in the bleeder hole in the throttle blade with epoxy.
The good:
1. warm oil pressure is 35psi at idle and 80 at higher rpms. A little high but not insane. I won't have to perform surgery today on the oil pump. perhaps another day.
2. this thing sounds S I C K
3. electric waterpump seems to be working, same for the ebay radiator. It wouldn't warm up much past 180 while idling on the jack stands. The waterpump is spinning about 46% speed at 180deg.
4. No piston slap or lifter ticks.
I went out and got some paste 2 part epoxy, and used almost all of it covering most of the aluminum welds. Cures in an hour, so once I get done here and eat lunch I will refill the coolant, again, and see how many leaks I still have. If it's all good (ha, yeh right) I will put the wheels back on and go for a little drive.
But **** me on this vibration, didn't sleep much last night.
The bad:
1. This thing is not smooth. Shakes/vibrates the interior say 2000-4000 rpm. Crank supposedly was balanced but it's one of those things that you have to trust in someone else to do correctly. And the first time he did it was definitely wrong, he took out counterweight even though the forged parts are a bunch heavier than the factory stuff. Seems to smooth out above that but I only blipped it to 6k a few times. Hopefully this is not as noticeable once the car is on the road. I am running miata mazdacomp motor mounts and polyurethane trans mount. I will look into buying oem style/softer mounts.
2. once water temp came up, I now have like 2000 little water leaks everywhere. And at least one oil leak on my remote oil filter housing. Apparently I truely suck welding aluminum! haha.
3. With my IAC disconnected the idle is ~1200. I will fill in the bleeder hole in the throttle blade with epoxy.
The good:
1. warm oil pressure is 35psi at idle and 80 at higher rpms. A little high but not insane. I won't have to perform surgery today on the oil pump. perhaps another day.
2. this thing sounds S I C K
3. electric waterpump seems to be working, same for the ebay radiator. It wouldn't warm up much past 180 while idling on the jack stands. The waterpump is spinning about 46% speed at 180deg.
4. No piston slap or lifter ticks.
I went out and got some paste 2 part epoxy, and used almost all of it covering most of the aluminum welds. Cures in an hour, so once I get done here and eat lunch I will refill the coolant, again, and see how many leaks I still have. If it's all good (ha, yeh right) I will put the wheels back on and go for a little drive.
But **** me on this vibration, didn't sleep much last night.
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Because it's a superior motor in pretty much every way. I have a BP car, an F2T car, and working on a KL car. I rate the BP at the bottom of the three.
08-17-2012, 12:33 PM
#393
Did you have to preload the mount bushings to get the last one bolted down? If the mounts aren't completely free to move, i.e. the bolts just drop into place, any minor vibration can be transmitted through the chassis. Most unpleasant motorcycle engine swap vibrations can be traced back to having to tighten the frame mounts up *to* the motor and can be fixed with a few washers taking that proload out.
Not saying that this is definitely the issue, but I put a motor in a buddy's S2000 once with a set of Innovative 85A mounts, and when I repositioned the mounts so there wasn't any preload in the bushings any more, his car went from an unbearable buzzy torture device, to almost stock.
Not saying that this is definitely the issue, but I put a motor in a buddy's S2000 once with a set of Innovative 85A mounts, and when I repositioned the mounts so there wasn't any preload in the bushings any more, his car went from an unbearable buzzy torture device, to almost stock.
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08-17-2012, 12:42 PM
#394
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I hate you.
I hate you too.
In theory my car was supposed to make 9 million horsepower. I want to see you do an e85 600hp tune tim. Please. I will pretend that your car is mine.
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08-17-2012, 04:33 PM
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Did you have to preload the mount bushings to get the last one bolted down? If the mounts aren't completely free to move, i.e. the bolts just drop into place, any minor vibration can be transmitted through the chassis. Most unpleasant motorcycle engine swap vibrations can be traced back to having to tighten the frame mounts up *to* the motor and can be fixed with a few washers taking that proload out.
Not saying that this is definitely the issue, but I put a motor in a buddy's S2000 once with a set of Innovative 85A mounts, and when I repositioned the mounts so there wasn't any preload in the bushings any more, his car went from an unbearable buzzy torture device, to almost stock.
Not saying that this is definitely the issue, but I put a motor in a buddy's S2000 once with a set of Innovative 85A mounts, and when I repositioned the mounts so there wasn't any preload in the bushings any more, his car went from an unbearable buzzy torture device, to almost stock.
E85 is not in my foreseeable future, sorry. I'd be happy with 400whp.
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08-18-2012, 12:01 AM
#398
lol, concealer, i just realized you're the same concealer on mx6.com. I'm on there too, same name.
didn't know Ze heads flowed worse since everyone else always slapped them on their DE. I know my ZE feels a bit faster than when I had my DE, but it's been years now. Don't even remember the last time I drove a DE. People always claim they get more power with a ZE mani too because of the bigger ports being square, but who knows. apparently the DE and ZE use the same sized valves, so I'm guessing flow isn't going to be any different, besides just being different shape and size
OP, that is one sexy sounding miata. If only I could somehow merge my 93 mx6 with a miata. Now that'd be interesting
didn't know Ze heads flowed worse since everyone else always slapped them on their DE. I know my ZE feels a bit faster than when I had my DE, but it's been years now. Don't even remember the last time I drove a DE. People always claim they get more power with a ZE mani too because of the bigger ports being square, but who knows. apparently the DE and ZE use the same sized valves, so I'm guessing flow isn't going to be any different, besides just being different shape and size
OP, that is one sexy sounding miata. If only I could somehow merge my 93 mx6 with a miata. Now that'd be interesting
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08-19-2012, 07:44 PM
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Haha, thanks Chris. I hope it's not too drone-y on the highway. I am sure the turbo will cut some of that too.
First drive! Kinda lame but I still have a small leak on my oil filter remote mount gizmo, and once the car warms up my crank trigger looses sync. I screwed the DIYAutotune hall sensor to only .010" air gap but it will still happen if I let the car sit and heat up long enough. Sometime this week I will make a replacement crank wheel with magnets to replace the trackspeed wheel. Airgap with the magnets is around .250", so no problem there, hopefully.
First drive! Kinda lame but I still have a small leak on my oil filter remote mount gizmo, and once the car warms up my crank trigger looses sync. I screwed the DIYAutotune hall sensor to only .010" air gap but it will still happen if I let the car sit and heat up long enough. Sometime this week I will make a replacement crank wheel with magnets to replace the trackspeed wheel. Airgap with the magnets is around .250", so no problem there, hopefully.
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