ABSURDflow Turbo KLDE Mazda V6 Thread
05-20-2015, 08:35 AM
#645
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Yeah it's close. Maybe I'll build a heat shield if I track the car. The turbine is ceramic coated but a shield will be helpful once all that stuff up there starts to glow.
The car won't live to see another 100k. The last few years I've averaged 3000mi/year.
If the belt pops and the valves go ouch-ie, it'll give me a reason to do the next swap.
I drove it to work today. I do have to spend some time on the fuel map as it's a little lean in spots, but it's definitely smoother and pulls pretty damn linearly now....doesn't fall on its face at 7000. I still have no torques down low though (compared to what I'm used to in the subaru), but that's not surprising.
EDIT: Tial Q BOV is quiet...I don't hear much really at all. The turbo is quiet too...no whirll when driving around which is sorta sad.
The car won't live to see another 100k. The last few years I've averaged 3000mi/year.
If the belt pops and the valves go ouch-ie, it'll give me a reason to do the next swap.
I drove it to work today. I do have to spend some time on the fuel map as it's a little lean in spots, but it's definitely smoother and pulls pretty damn linearly now....doesn't fall on its face at 7000. I still have no torques down low though (compared to what I'm used to in the subaru), but that's not surprising.
EDIT: Tial Q BOV is quiet...I don't hear much really at all. The turbo is quiet too...no whirll when driving around which is sorta sad.
Last edited by TurboTim; 05-20-2015 at 08:56 AM.
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05-20-2015, 12:48 PM
#648
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Thanks. As I was walking out last week before my mini vacation, I figured I may as well take a few minutes to buzz the logo on the BOV.
The next swap wouldn't be as interesting. There's an old aluminum small block Ford SVO V8 block here (mid 2000's PRI show display motor...had all our parts on it under plexiglass driven with an electric motor), along with some old somewhat fancy nascar heads in storage that I could use to build a short stroke high RPM V8. Plus I already have the T5 and ford flywheel/clutch setup with the V6, although my trans placement is probably too far forward as it sits now.
Anyway, hopefully the V6 stays together.
The next swap wouldn't be as interesting. There's an old aluminum small block Ford SVO V8 block here (mid 2000's PRI show display motor...had all our parts on it under plexiglass driven with an electric motor), along with some old somewhat fancy nascar heads in storage that I could use to build a short stroke high RPM V8. Plus I already have the T5 and ford flywheel/clutch setup with the V6, although my trans placement is probably too far forward as it sits now.
Anyway, hopefully the V6 stays together.
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05-20-2015, 01:43 PM
#650
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There's an old aluminum small block Ford SVO V8 block here (mid 2000's PRI show display motor...had all our parts on it under plexiglass driven with an electric motor), along with some old somewhat fancy nascar heads in storage that I could use to build a short stroke high RPM V8. Plus I already have the T5 and ford flywheel/clutch setup with the V6, although my trans placement is probably too far forward as it sits now.
I'm guessing the KLDE is an interference motor?
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05-20-2015, 02:37 PM
#653
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I assume my KL is an interference with the new pistons. Not sure really...Does the BP turn into one with aftermarket ~9.0:1 pistons? Apples/oranges I know.
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05-20-2015, 02:57 PM
#654
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You need to dial up your training intensity then.
I'm going to say yes, but only when representing very large volumes of no.
I'm pretty sure my 8.6:1 CR Supertecs are not interference by themselves, but with the +1 valves now in my head I don't know. And I don't want to find out
Not even a Virtual Dyno plot to at least slake our lust?
I'm pretty sure my 8.6:1 CR Supertecs are not interference by themselves, but with the +1 valves now in my head I don't know. And I don't want to find out
Not even a Virtual Dyno plot to at least slake our lust?
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10-08-2015, 10:26 AM
#656
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Virtual dyno eh. Hmm.
I swapped the wastegate spring from 6psi to 10. Car felt slower (with 10psi spring/no EBC than 10psi EBC with 6psi spring) and quieter. I'll have to play around.
I Had this EMUSA turbo from lars for a while, decided to make it a direct replacement for the Precision 5858. Smaller wheels, chinese journal bearing. Hoping for more low end squirt (think subaru) for daily driving.
I swapped the wastegate spring from 6psi to 10. Car felt slower (with 10psi spring/no EBC than 10psi EBC with 6psi spring) and quieter. I'll have to play around.
I Had this EMUSA turbo from lars for a while, decided to make it a direct replacement for the Precision 5858. Smaller wheels, chinese journal bearing. Hoping for more low end squirt (think subaru) for daily driving.
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10-08-2015, 10:34 AM
#659
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So I did that and:
1. wow, lots of heat coming off this thing. Ceramic coating your turbine housing is a good idea. As is a big hood vent above your turbo, assuming above said hood vent is in a low pressure area.
2. Chinese turbos are not as good as American turbos. There is a significant difference between the performance of these turbos. The larger Precision turbo is better everywhere, by a lot. Like.....not even close. Precision builds boost sooner and more of it quicker. Precision is also a lot quieter, which may note be a good thing for ricer types. The chinese turbo makes a lot of the typical turbo compressor surge garble on part throttle shifts, etc.
I never looked at the precision turbo while idling (you can hear it whhirrrllll for a while after shutting off the car), but at idle with the chinese turbo, it doesn't spin. Blip the throttle and it does, but then it quickly stops. It's a little hard to rotate too. Shut off the car and it spins easily.
1. wow, lots of heat coming off this thing. Ceramic coating your turbine housing is a good idea. As is a big hood vent above your turbo, assuming above said hood vent is in a low pressure area.
2. Chinese turbos are not as good as American turbos. There is a significant difference between the performance of these turbos. The larger Precision turbo is better everywhere, by a lot. Like.....not even close. Precision builds boost sooner and more of it quicker. Precision is also a lot quieter, which may note be a good thing for ricer types. The chinese turbo makes a lot of the typical turbo compressor surge garble on part throttle shifts, etc.
I never looked at the precision turbo while idling (you can hear it whhirrrllll for a while after shutting off the car), but at idle with the chinese turbo, it doesn't spin. Blip the throttle and it does, but then it quickly stops. It's a little hard to rotate too. Shut off the car and it spins easily.
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10-08-2015, 10:41 AM
#660
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By down on power, I typically can power spin 3rd in the 90+F summer. Chinese turbo: can't spin second in the 60F/cold tire weather we have currently.
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