added BOV to greddy kit, problem..
#21
Plenty of guys run the Chinese knockoff BOV's for thousands of miles with no problems... but the reliability/build quality is definitely not on par with name-brand production models. My bet is that the guts of yours are faulty or simply stuck. Without pics/video there is no help to be had, WE NEED A PICTURE OF HOW YOUR BOV IS SETUP/INSTALLED, AND THEN REMOVE IT, DISASSEMBLE IT, AND TAKE A PICTURE OF THE GUTS.
#23
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Does your BOV have 2 ports on it? if it does do you have on hooked up to a vacuum source, between the engine and throttle body, and the other some were between the turbo and the throttle body?
#33
Installing a Greddy Type S BOV in a DSM Eclipse/Talon/Laser shows how to hook up the type S. Make sure it's put on that way. The T fitting should be to tap off the manifold vac line.
#34
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Interestingly, I had precisely the opposite experiance.
My first BOV was the machined aluminum piston-style unit made by FM. It worked fine for a while, then started to get sluggish and siezed. I disassembled and cleaned it, re-lubed the piston, and put it back in. Again, fine for a while, then stopped working.
Called FM, discussed the situation. They suggested that they are not typically failure-prone, but that they do require lubrication "about every other oil change." Heck, I was getting less than a thousand miles out of it.
Disassembled again, cleaned everything with alcohol, used some fine sandpaper to polish the piston and bore, re-lubed, re-assembled, and the same thing.
I trashed it and replaced it with a cheap Chinese-made "Type RS" BOV that I bought from an eBay vendor for <$50 shipped. I took it apart and removed the inner spring, installed it, and it's been working trouble-free for about 2 years with no adjustment and no maintenance.
My first BOV was the machined aluminum piston-style unit made by FM. It worked fine for a while, then started to get sluggish and siezed. I disassembled and cleaned it, re-lubed the piston, and put it back in. Again, fine for a while, then stopped working.
Called FM, discussed the situation. They suggested that they are not typically failure-prone, but that they do require lubrication "about every other oil change." Heck, I was getting less than a thousand miles out of it.
Disassembled again, cleaned everything with alcohol, used some fine sandpaper to polish the piston and bore, re-lubed, re-assembled, and the same thing.
I trashed it and replaced it with a cheap Chinese-made "Type RS" BOV that I bought from an eBay vendor for <$50 shipped. I took it apart and removed the inner spring, installed it, and it's been working trouble-free for about 2 years with no adjustment and no maintenance.
#35
Top one will get a source from between the engine and the throttle body. The other can be left open or you can tap it into the charge piping if you wish.
With both hooked up together.... they fight each other as one is a "push" and the other is a "pull"
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