cyotani

iTrader: (8)

All of this info already exists and has been repeated countless times for many newb threads like this.

Sometimes people give the proper advice and other people tell them STFU and search. It mostly depends on the OPs tone and willingness to take the advice and who's time of the month it is.

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

Agreed, and the fact that now all this info is in one thread, and the conversation has been positive and civil, means maybe if we sticky it we won't have this same conversation again!

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Having been around here a bit longer then you, this conversation will come up again, again, and again. Here is a perfect example. I have just been in a nice mood lately so I have been giving out decent advice.

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

Another (slightly more expensive) option is to get the FM no electronic kit and pick up the ECU and injectors separate. This is what I did for initial build.

You'll still save money vs the FMII and end up with a pretty solid kit (with a real garret turbo vs chinacharger). The benefit really is in the fact that it's an all-in-one kit, as far as hardware.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

^that option has already been thoroughly discussed here.

90civichhb

iTrader: (5)

The other thing that makes this thread relevant is the fact that all the prices for these things are listed and compared. You hear $5000 thrown around a lot when going turbo, but it seems that you could get it done for half that amount, with quality parts, and some down time. This is a fantastic thread.

miataa

I just want to thank everyone who has been a part of this thread. Your help is guiding me down the path I wanted to take and I couldn't be doing this without you.

I know a lot of you have answered these questions time and time again. So it means a lot that you would take the time out of your day to repeat yourselves just to help me.

You guys rock!


This is the current setup I have prepared.

1. t25 from sr20 -- $120

2. EV14 60lb/630cc injectors -- $160
+ extenders / adapters / lower seals -- $77

3. MS3x -- $800

4. Synapse BOV -- $189

5. Intercooler kit --$339

7. Boost Gauge -- $11 (will upgrade this)

8. EGR block off plate -- $26

9. FM mani/dp -- $749

10. oil line kit -- $45

Estimated total is around 2516

Are there any other parts I need, or anything I have left out? I want to get this estimated kit finished up and rated by all of you turbo experts so I can start ordering parts. Will this get me close to the estimated 265hp of the FM II Hydra kit?

Thanks again!

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

Assume you're going to use the MS3 to control boost? If so, you need a boost solenoid; EBC Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Kit DIYAutoTune.com

If you're going to get things installed and then later do EBC then maybe you want a manual boost controller.

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

I bet you could shave another $200-$400 off that total figure by watching the classifieds on this forum for a while, especially for the mani and dp. When good stuff comes up it goes fast, so it pays to check often and jump on any good deals. You would have to be pretty patient though.

If you roll up your sleeves and go diy, you can do the intercooler setup for $250ish too.

miataa

I had taken the MBC out and assumed MS3x would handle it. Thank you for letting me know I had to purchase the EBC separately.

1. t25 from sr20 -- $120

2. EV14 60lb/630cc injectors -- $160
+ extenders / adapters / lower seals -- $77

3. MS3x -- $800
+ EBC --$47

4. Synapse BOV -- $189

5. Intercooler kit --$339

7. Boost Gauge -- $11 (will upgrade this)

8. EGR block off plate -- $26

9. FM mani/dp -- $749

10. oil line kit -- $45

Estimated total is around 2563


Yeah, I am definitely going to look through the classifieds here, and check used ebay auctions (on legit parts) to try and save a few more dollars. I was just wanting to get a full list of estimated retail-ish prices to see what I can do. I appreciate the help!

I found deezums thread on a good sized intercooler for only 61 dollars.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27X5-5X2-5-A...757185?vxp=mtr

I haven't been able to find a cheap piping kit with bov flange for the 1.8. Any suggestions on where to look for a cheap kit, or by DIY do you mean get pipe and cut and weld? Unfortunately, I have no tools for cutting and I don't know how to weld so I would have to take the pipe to a shop. The intercooler kit I found earlier and have in my estimated price list comes with a pipe kit that fits the 1.8 and the FMIC.

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

2.5" pipe with v-flange for BOV. TiAL type so not sure of the Synapse you listed.
SRE 2 5" Aluminum Turbo Blow Off Valve Adapter Pipe Tial 50mm 2mm Thick | eBay

You can also get some opinions on ebay BOV to save a little more.

TiAL clone; 50mm BOV 50 Turbo Universal Billet Aluminum Blow Off Valve Black Spring Flange | eBay

I'm sure other guys have favorites.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I highly doubt the IC kit you picked out fits anywhere near as well as you expect it to. When we say diy we mean buy the pipe, cut it to length, then usually use couplers to get it together. If you really need someone to weld for you, check craigslist. Plenty of cheap welders on there in most decent sized towns. You can cut IC pipe with a hack saw by hand. It is slow and tiring but it is doable.

Also where are you finding oil lines for $45. You will also need coolant lines to the turbo and all the correct fitting for that. I would honestly plan to spend $100-150 for oil and coolant lines.

miataa

I was hoping to find a full IC kit, Shuiend recommended 2" piping as well, but thank you for that.

I also wanted to use synapse for a quality BOV. I've used their products in the past when I owned a GST, I'm pretty set on that one.

miataa

I agree with you 100%, although I'm not expecting it to be bolt on with perfect fitment. It is the cheapest kit I have found in which the pipes matched the size you suggested, and they were pre cut and offered lengths not found in any other ebay item.

As for the oil line kit estimation, I just added up a couple of ebay items, and figured I could find the hoses and adapters at a hardware store for cheaper, but here they are:

Turbo Oil Return Drain Line Kit for Most Turbo turbocharger T3 T4 T25 Adapter | eBay
36" Turbo Oil Inlet Feed Line Fitting for Turbo turbocharger Kit T3 T4 T25 T28 | eBay

Any ideas on where I could source some coolant or oil lines for a good price?

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't cheap out on oil and coolant lines or fittings. There are several turbo supply houses you can get good AN stuff for reasonable money.

miataa

I agree. The ebay auctions were for part and price reference. The oil inlet line does come with AN fittings, but it is still an ebay auction so who knows.

Any recommendations on where I could find them, from suppliers you know and trust?

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

I'd like to know this too. Lars - what oil lines are you recommending for the Miata Kitty?

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I've bought from Treadstone Performance; Treadstone Performance Inc.

and ATP Turbo; ATPturbo

I think the TP site is much easier to navigate and I tend to buy from them.

Shuiend has recommended to use Firesleeve on the lines but I'm not sure if he buys locally or not. A source is here; Firesleeve source

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I learned a long time ago to not cheap out on oil lines. I have used most major brands on AN lines and fittings. Cheapest ones found on ebay, silicone intakes fittings, EARLS, Summit, Mocal, and Aeroquip. I now won't use anything not Mocal or Aeroquip. The difference in quality is worth the higher prices.

I will be offering up an oil line kit. Will come with all fittings you need for the turbo and block, along with oil feed and drain. Lines and hose fittings will be Aeroquip and assembled at a local hydraulic store. They will also be covered in fire sleeve, something no other vendors are currently offering.

If you want to assemble your own lines I recommend Mocal fittings and hoses and you can get them from here.

ATP and Treadstone are where I get some of my fittings from. Others I get from the local hydraulic shop.

Lokiel

I agree that for the hotside, 2" IC piping is better since it makes routing easier and there's no benefit going larger since the turbo outlet is 2" anyway but for the coldside I'd recommend 2.5" plumbing if your intercooler uses 2.5" barbs. This ensures that there's no flow loss due to air compression when exiting the intercooler through smaller intercooler pipes (think of the intercooler as a big air chamber that must be filled to capacity for maximum flow output - larger intercooler outlet pipes ensure that the "capacity" is less than smaller outlet pipes since less pressure is required to exit the intercooler).

There's enough room to mount 2.5" coldside intercooler plumbing.