Anyone running low boost
02-16-2009, 01:10 PM
#22
Dude, the 1st thing you need to do is park your car and hide the keys. Then go inside and read this until your blue. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4288/
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02-16-2009, 02:57 PM
#23
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thanks for the opinions and bits of advice. I do understand that I am driving an unfinished project. Wires and plugs are at 2k miles. I don't want everyone to misunderstand that I would just install my gauges never to look at them again. I was, in fact, planning to make further diagnosis based on the air/fuel readings, but in the meantime, I thought that I would try to figure out why this was happening conceptually in case I missed anything, being my first time turbo'ing, and that's why I thought I would dare to ask for help and advise here.
I have thought of a very probably theory, however. I think that not enough fuel is getting to the cylinders and either I installed my FPR wrong or it is faulty. I'm not sure of the number of incidents of broken FPRs out there, but I will do a test this weekend when I'm back at the shop. Thanks again guys.
I have thought of a very probably theory, however. I think that not enough fuel is getting to the cylinders and either I installed my FPR wrong or it is faulty. I'm not sure of the number of incidents of broken FPRs out there, but I will do a test this weekend when I'm back at the shop. Thanks again guys.
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02-16-2009, 03:06 PM
#24
Something just occurred to me, I hesitate to post it, lest you try it and blow up your engine if it solves the problem.
I had some plain-jane NGKs in my car, and my friend who's watching the car thought he'd help me by putting in some NGK platinums. Over 4-4.5k RPM, the thing would hit a wall and refuse to accelerate, coupled with the low-pitched sound of sputtering like the mixture wasn't getting lit. I got another set of NGK coppers and the car sang to redline, no hint of a miss. This was with the plugs at .040 (with COPs) but you might try .020 like Pat said.
I take no responsibility if you do this and blow your **** up.
I had some plain-jane NGKs in my car, and my friend who's watching the car thought he'd help me by putting in some NGK platinums. Over 4-4.5k RPM, the thing would hit a wall and refuse to accelerate, coupled with the low-pitched sound of sputtering like the mixture wasn't getting lit. I got another set of NGK coppers and the car sang to redline, no hint of a miss. This was with the plugs at .040 (with COPs) but you might try .020 like Pat said.
I take no responsibility if you do this and blow your **** up.
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02-16-2009, 03:15 PM
#25
Something just occurred to me, I hesitate to post it, lest you try it and blow up your engine if it solves the problem.
I had some plain-jane NGKs in my car, and my friend who's watching the car thought he'd help me by putting in some NGK platinums. Over 4-4.5k RPM, the thing would hit a wall and refuse to accelerate, coupled with the low-pitched sound of sputtering like the mixture wasn't getting lit. I got another set of NGK coppers and the car sang to redline, no hint of a miss. This was with the plugs at .040 (with COPs) but you might try .020 like Pat said.
I take no responsibility if you do this and blow your **** up.
I had some plain-jane NGKs in my car, and my friend who's watching the car thought he'd help me by putting in some NGK platinums. Over 4-4.5k RPM, the thing would hit a wall and refuse to accelerate, coupled with the low-pitched sound of sputtering like the mixture wasn't getting lit. I got another set of NGK coppers and the car sang to redline, no hint of a miss. This was with the plugs at .040 (with COPs) but you might try .020 like Pat said.
I take no responsibility if you do this and blow your **** up.
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02-16-2009, 07:59 PM
#27
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reading up further on spark blowout, I am almost convinced that this is the cause of my issue. thanks to patsmx5 and kotomile for the knowledgeable suggestion. I plan to test this by lessening the gap by small increments until the problem is alleviated, therefore keeping as hot of a spark as possible. If it does not change by .020, I will try a different approach. I will update when I test this, as by the many search topics I dug through, this seems to be a common unsolved problem of many other first time turbo installers.
Don't worry I won't be holding anyone accountable for my own risks and mistakes
Don't worry I won't be holding anyone accountable for my own risks and mistakes
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02-16-2009, 09:38 PM
#29
May I suggest getting a fuel pressure gauge.
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02-16-2009, 10:36 PM
#32
holy **** dude, can you just stop for a minute and READ THE ******* POSTS????????????/
DONT drive the car running unsafely and in god knows what condition.
DONT try to fix **** before actually DIAGNOSING it. for DIAGNOSING you need the proper equipment, the two gauges being the very least of the required stuff.
seriously, people are trying to help you here, and if you just keep doing random **** to a car you dont know what boost/afr's its running, it will break. then no one will care to help you because you went ahead and fucked it up despite all the warnings.
DONT drive the car running unsafely and in god knows what condition.
DONT try to fix **** before actually DIAGNOSING it. for DIAGNOSING you need the proper equipment, the two gauges being the very least of the required stuff.
seriously, people are trying to help you here, and if you just keep doing random **** to a car you dont know what boost/afr's its running, it will break. then no one will care to help you because you went ahead and fucked it up despite all the warnings.
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02-16-2009, 10:58 PM
#34
"They knew the risks, I say let'em crash!" -Counterpoint
The stock computer starts actually adding a little fuel after 5K, so you may just be getting too rich, which would be ironic.
But you really need to start from square one and get your setup in order. The miata is durable and a turbo miata is about the best modified car out there, but you won't regret putting a little study and thought into it to first. If you don't, there are lots of things you will definitely regret.
Read the sticky, start a list of tasks, and then put them in order. We will then be happy to help, many of us did the FMU thing for a bit and have experience.
The stock computer starts actually adding a little fuel after 5K, so you may just be getting too rich, which would be ironic.
But you really need to start from square one and get your setup in order. The miata is durable and a turbo miata is about the best modified car out there, but you won't regret putting a little study and thought into it to first. If you don't, there are lots of things you will definitely regret.
Read the sticky, start a list of tasks, and then put them in order. We will then be happy to help, many of us did the FMU thing for a bit and have experience.
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02-16-2009, 10:58 PM
#35
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Good god...
1.) you should NEVER have let yourself even turn the ignition key to on with the turbo installed without AT LEAST 91 octane in the tank. If the day came to do the install and you had half a tank of 87 you should have driven in circles till it was gone and then filled up the the proper octane fuel BEFORE installing the turbo.
2.) "I got impatient" is probably one of the #1 causes of people blowing up a motor, be it getting impatient and boosting before the tune is dialed in properly, before you have the necessary gauges, before the setup is right, etc... gauges are not something to get after you install the turbo. You should buy and install the gauges BEFORE you install the turbo and verify that they are working properly so that when the turbo goes in, you know you can trust their readings.
3.) ANY DIY TURBO SETUP REQUIRES INTIMATE KNOWLEDGE OF ALL OF THE COMPONENTS USED. Someone who goes out and buys a kit can trust that the company that designed the kit knew what they were doing and does not need to know the exact details of each little part even though I personally still would not recommend taking such a minimal interest in things. You do not have such a kit. You cannot afford such a lackadaisical attitude. You should know EXACTLY what psi the wastegate on the turbo you are using should be boosting to. Not an approximation, not an "I can find out tomorrow" - you should know down to the tenth of a psi what it is designed for.
PARK the car, have someone with a brain TAKE AWAY the keys from you until you DRAIN the gas, fill it with proper fuel that won't blow up the motor, and INSTALL at the BARE MINIMUM a Wideband Air/Fuel ratio gauge and a boost gauge. Then the next time you drive it, CAREFULLY edge your way into boost and keep your eyes glued to the gauges. Do not just impale the throttle with your teenage foot, you need to make sure that you are maintaining a safe air/fuel ratio throughout the rpm range during boost, so accellerate up to 4k and back off. If the ratio looked good, do it again up to 5k, if it was still good again up to 6k and so on.
THEN if you are getting good air/fuel ratios all the way through the rpm range and the car is still falling on its face at 5k, come back to use with some proper info and we can work with you to determine probable causes.
Oh, and you should be at no more than 6* of timing if you have no form of timing control. NOT 8.
-Ryan
1.) you should NEVER have let yourself even turn the ignition key to on with the turbo installed without AT LEAST 91 octane in the tank. If the day came to do the install and you had half a tank of 87 you should have driven in circles till it was gone and then filled up the the proper octane fuel BEFORE installing the turbo.
2.) "I got impatient" is probably one of the #1 causes of people blowing up a motor, be it getting impatient and boosting before the tune is dialed in properly, before you have the necessary gauges, before the setup is right, etc... gauges are not something to get after you install the turbo. You should buy and install the gauges BEFORE you install the turbo and verify that they are working properly so that when the turbo goes in, you know you can trust their readings.
3.) ANY DIY TURBO SETUP REQUIRES INTIMATE KNOWLEDGE OF ALL OF THE COMPONENTS USED. Someone who goes out and buys a kit can trust that the company that designed the kit knew what they were doing and does not need to know the exact details of each little part even though I personally still would not recommend taking such a minimal interest in things. You do not have such a kit. You cannot afford such a lackadaisical attitude. You should know EXACTLY what psi the wastegate on the turbo you are using should be boosting to. Not an approximation, not an "I can find out tomorrow" - you should know down to the tenth of a psi what it is designed for.
PARK the car, have someone with a brain TAKE AWAY the keys from you until you DRAIN the gas, fill it with proper fuel that won't blow up the motor, and INSTALL at the BARE MINIMUM a Wideband Air/Fuel ratio gauge and a boost gauge. Then the next time you drive it, CAREFULLY edge your way into boost and keep your eyes glued to the gauges. Do not just impale the throttle with your teenage foot, you need to make sure that you are maintaining a safe air/fuel ratio throughout the rpm range during boost, so accellerate up to 4k and back off. If the ratio looked good, do it again up to 5k, if it was still good again up to 6k and so on.
THEN if you are getting good air/fuel ratios all the way through the rpm range and the car is still falling on its face at 5k, come back to use with some proper info and we can work with you to determine probable causes.
Oh, and you should be at no more than 6* of timing if you have no form of timing control. NOT 8.
-Ryan
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02-17-2009, 02:38 AM
#37
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I was under the impression that O2 clamps were only for when the signal is in closed loop (under 4k RPM), correct me if I'm wrong? No problems there, its only after 4k or so.
It may as well be a fuel problem, thanks for the suggestion.
I want to reinstate that I wasn't planning to touch the car until this weekend when it is back at the shop.
I know you guys are religious about using 91 octane with 6 degrees, but I did manage to drive 45 miles on the stuff and am only planning to use up the 87 for another 40 miles at the same speeds and in the same cautiousness. I did plan, then, to flush and replace with 91. I don't want to be mistaken for rude and want to mention that I do, however, take into consideration and appreciate your guys' concerns for the safety of my car.
It may as well be a fuel problem, thanks for the suggestion.
I want to reinstate that I wasn't planning to touch the car until this weekend when it is back at the shop.
I know you guys are religious about using 91 octane with 6 degrees, but I did manage to drive 45 miles on the stuff and am only planning to use up the 87 for another 40 miles at the same speeds and in the same cautiousness. I did plan, then, to flush and replace with 91. I don't want to be mistaken for rude and want to mention that I do, however, take into consideration and appreciate your guys' concerns for the safety of my car.
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02-17-2009, 02:55 AM
#39
detonation the 87 octane is destroying ur motor way to go now u get to see DIY engine rebuild in progress. A high octane fuel is essential to your turbo car staying alive, and boost guage etc even temporary and taped to your windsheild hood etc will help tremendous.
Once u remedy the fuel i would do a compresion check and then. Come back to us with ur numbers and the folowing list
Fuel management system specs= IE injectors, fpr vodoo etc
Timming control= bipes, timing retarded manualy
this will help us help u
Once u remedy the fuel i would do a compresion check and then. Come back to us with ur numbers and the folowing list
Fuel management system specs= IE injectors, fpr vodoo etc
Timming control= bipes, timing retarded manualy
this will help us help u
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