mlev

iTrader: (5)

I installed the BEGi reroute when I did my clutch, and I have a couple questions.

First of all, it has been ~30F here the last few days, and my car is not fully warming while driving in these temps. I was under the impression that the thermostat on the back of the block should stop coolant from getting around to the radiator until it all reached 180F and thus even with "more efficient" cooling from the reroute, I should still reach operating temps, right?

The car warms normally whle idling and parked, but while driving the stock temp gauge hovers at around the 10-11 oclock position instead of right near the 12 oclock position.

Is my thermostat stuck open? Something else? Working as intended, and it'll be fine when it's not so damned cold out? I didn't boil the thermostat before I put it in.. regretting that, now.

Also, how long after installing the reroute and burping the system should I expect all the air to be out? I burped it while parked and then drove it for a bit and my coolant levels dropped significantly--I assumed this was due to more air coming out. Now a week or so later the level in my overflow is a bit low again. More air coming out, or is something leaking back there? It's _so_ hard to see the spacer back there with the coil pack and such in place..

mlev

iTrader: (5)

It may also be possible that the thermostat is not seated properly in it's position in the spacer.. I am at mile 200 of 500 breaking in the clutch, and then it's all getting torn apart again to put the turbo on, so idk..

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

EDIT:
Nevermind. Based on the context it is clear which reroute you have.

I would check the thermostat. It may be stuck opened, or maybe opening at too low of a temperature for some reason.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Hahaha, i did the same thing.


I'm wondering if the t-stat is seated properly.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

The more I think about it, the more I believe it may not be. I had the reroute installed and then had to pull it out to reach the top transmission bolts. (and then re-inserted it mostly blindly behind the block)

As much as I absolutely loathe the idea, I think I'll be draining it all, pulling the reroute, boiling the t-stat, re-installing everything, and burping the system. Again. Fuu.

At least I ordered extra gaskets from BEGi just incase something like this happened. I'll use this opportunity to replace them as well, just in case they are leaking a bit.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Just for my reference... what length bolts did you use to install the spacer? I've heard mention that Begi likes to send too long ones, and Miataturbo likes to use a shorter one in place of one. (Confused yet?)

I'm going to be attempting this job soon, and i'm going to be super angry if it takes longer than an hour because i hate wrenching cars, and it's only magnified when i'm working in tiny spaces.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Not confused. Begi now includes two length bolts and they seemed to fit very very well. There was about 3/4" of bolt sticking out of the spacer before I installed it.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you're going to be angry. It will take that hour just to properly burp the coolant after you're DONE with the install. I would plan this as a 3-4 hour project, assuming you have everything you need and know exactly how you're going to do it.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Well, poop.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Even with hustlers magic *** funnel it takes that long to bleed in the winter because it takes that long for the thermostat to open just idling when its 10°F outside. If you get yours to seal with those gaskets you're luckier than I am. I finally got it to seal when I decided I want no longer going to use RTV ever and just honda bond for everything.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Oh man, you are going to be SO ANGRY

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

you running a 94-00 head gasket? If not then it could explain not warming up. Your coolant level will fluctuate a little. If you have a little air in the system the water will fill in the spots where the air left. It's not a lot but I'd verify you aren't leaking any. If you find yourself filling the reservoir often put some dye in there and then take a black light to it later.

It sucks tracking leaks down that are slow and the dye does all the work for you (and is cheap). I've seen quite a few threads of people leaking out of their reroute. Your car should have no problem warming up though. Do you have an ems you can log into and watch the actual temp?

mlev

iTrader: (5)

I'll look into the dye, especially after turbo. Thanks!

I have an obd-ii bluetooth adaptor and torque I can watch the actual temps with.

Step 1 is going to be tearing it apart, boiling the tstat, and putting it back together solid.

Thanks for your help, all.

Preluding

iTrader: (10)

Blow compressed air into rad cap overflow tube going into rad...not a lot of psi...just enough to get by the cap and pressurize coolant system.

With the car off, you should be able to trace it down a lot easier.

This is what I did when I has I leak in mine

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

surprised no one has mentioned the heater core...heater core is always on, so a number of people have had to put a restrictor in the heater core line to reduce the amount of coolant going through it (and help with warm up).

You didn't mention if you still have the heater core in...I would assume you do since its implied you daily this car

Also, run the car, let it cool off and wipe the bottom of the spacer to check for any leaks there. its the most likely place to leak.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the reply. I do have the heater core still in, but the car heats up fine while parked with the heater on full-blast, and is too cold while driving down the highway with the dial set to full cold, and the blowers off.

At this point I'm 99% sure it's a t-stat problem, and seeing as how I need to pull the spacer to check that, I'll work on any potential leaks afterwards.

The dog is at doggy daycare right now to tire her out, I work until 4pm cst, and then I'll get to work. I'll keep you all updated.

bmxfuel007

iTrader: (21)

I have this problem too with the reroute, and I'm suspecting my 180 degree thermostat (stock is 190 or 195?). I was stupid to buy the lower temp thermostat when I live in the northwest :P

Also, since you have your heater core hooked up, where is your return line going to? I'm assuming you have the port off the spacer going to the heater core. If you're returning the other line to the upper radiator hose, it'll take longer to heat up. Most guys who are doing it right will be returning it to the lower radiator hose, before the water pump

Have fun working on the spacer/thermostat with the head in the car. I think I did that once and never again. All other times I've thought about working on the spacer, I've coincidentally had the engine or head out of the car

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Make sure your radiator cap is sealing. If not, it doesn't create a vacuum in the overflow as it cools, just sucking more air in under the cap. Therefore, it never refills from the overflow.

Having no heat is a classic symptom of having air in the system.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

So, I pulled everything apart and it looks fine.. Did I perchance hook the heater hoses back up backwards, and would it make a difference if I did? As in out to in and in to out? The passenger side heater hose (left while looking at the firewall) is connected to the spacer.

I'm heating up water now to boil the tstat, but it's currently closed... Soo....

mlev

iTrader: (5)

I wonder if I had the tstat in backwards.. Would the pressure push the valve open and let water pass if that was the case?

Tstat works perfectly.

But I think I'm going to put my 195 one back in.

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

If the stock gauge reads strait up at 200F with a 195F T stat, where do you think it should read with a 180F T stat? I would assume it would read around 11 o'clock on the gauge... so why were you surprised by this reading?

Keith