zebro racing

I just got my car running again after going through a LONG process. the car is lacking power. i can hear the turbo spooling, but there is no power or go happening. i dont have a BOV in yet or an intercooler, im running a 1.75" pipe from the turbo and TB. i know that there is a vacume line coming off the TB and one off the intake mani that i have inproperly routed between the MAF and turbo. the line off the mani goes to the BOV (i think), the other i have no idea about. i figure getting the BOV in and rerouting the mani line will help some but even given all this it still feels like the car should have more go. any ideas?

small aside, can i damage the turbo (running roughly 6-7psi) by not having a BOV?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

What's your boost gauge say? (Do not reply with "i dont have a boost gauge". If you do not have one, order one now, install it ASAP, and then tell me what it reads.)

xveganxcowboyx

iTrader: (2)

How do you have a line going from your manifold to your BOV, but do not have a BOV installed?

Please post more clearly what your vacuum routing is like. Pictures are always helpful. It sounds like a big vacuum/boost leak.

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

pics will help

zebro racing

the vacuume line is currently running from mani to between the MAF and turbo (this line will go to the BOV when it is installed). the other line was connected in the previous set up to either the waste gate on the aerodyne turbo or the air box, im not sure. boost gauge broke and so did camera (seperate incidentces). disregard this thread until i get my BOV in, im thinking that should help alot.

i do still want to know if running a turbo at 6-7psi without a BOV can hurt it though, anyone?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no that wont hurt the turbo....but yes it will kill your motor when you just random do odd things....

Savington

iTrader: (31)

So you don't have a working boost gauge, and you have a vacuum line run from your intake manifold to your intake tube pre-turbo? The turbo is just sucking all its own air.

Read the FAQs before posting again.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

turn the car off b4 somthing dies,
take lots of pictures,
describe i detail whats wrong,

u have to help us to help u

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

someone please tell me that this is just a joke. i can not believe what i am reading.
i think this link will help you out a bunch. post number 8
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4288
read it
read it again
and read it couple more times.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

sell car to someone with a brain, and get a civic hatch and leave it stock...maybe a fart can and some rimz...stay away from power mods...
best advice i can give you

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

All right, come on, let's help him out.

Zebro, we need pictures. Did you connect a vaccum line from the INTAKE MANIFOLD back to the tube between the MAF and TURBO or did you mis-speak when you said that?

Typically, not having any power when first intalling a turbo kit can mean a few things.

1: You've connected your intake manifold to your intake tube.
2: You've got a boost leak due to poorly installed couplers.
3: You are either extremely rich or extremely lean.
4: Your timing is way off.
5: Your catalytic converter is clogged and preventing spool.
6... there are a few more, but we really need pictures.

zebro racing

hey whaaamx5: bite me. ill bet your build went smooth as silk.

im having to rework the turbo system because the last "kit" that was on it (an aerodyne) quit working. so im kinda having to figure out whats been done to the car as i go. sorry about the lack of pics, my camera is temporarily out of service, but im working on it.

in lue of pics let me try to paint a picture for you: refer to http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/faq/bov.jpg
notice that there are two vacuume lines coming off the mani JUST engine side of the TB. the one on the left is t-ed off; one end goes to canister purge solenoid valve (refer to page 6-1 in the 90-97 miata haynes repair manual). the other end of this T runs currently to the intake tube between turbo and MAF, but WILL run to the BOV as of friday (assuming this is the correct line to run to BOV).

the vac line on the right (in the pic its the one that goes in the direction of the front of the car) is also t-ed off. one end runs to an MSD miata specific boost controler. from what i understand this "boost controler" controls timing. the other end of this T off the mani runs to a T that connected to the cruise control and the other end runs through the fire wall left of the brake booster. i cut (not literally) the cruise control out of this system.

there is also a vac line coming out of the tube between the TB and Turbo. i have this connected to the tube between the MAF and turbo. this end i dont have a clue what to do with. any idea where this one should go?

i hooked it up this way because thats the way it was when the aerodyne went the way of the dodo (boost gauge took a crap about he same time). so like i said, im having to figure it out as i go. help is appreciated, haters are not.

thank you to the ones trying to help.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

You'll do well to watch your ******* mouth when you talk to senior members.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

This is a big problem. You need to remove the T and get rid of the line going into the intake tube between turbo and MAF. That one should go to your BOV. If you don't currently have a line going to your BOV and it's installed, that's a big problem too.

When you say between the turbo and TB, are you saying it's on the intercooler pipes? Remove it and cap the ends, it doesn't belong.

No sweat... and don't worry about Whaam, he's been here 6months and half his posts are in the BS forum.

xveganxcowboyx

iTrader: (2)

As samnavy said, the line to your intake tube needs to be capped off. This is essentially a gigantic boost leak.

As far as I'm concerned the only vacuum lines you should be running are to a boost gauge, a wastegate or boost controller and a BOV. Everything else is non-essential. Start from there and you can add other systems back in as needed.

The port on your intake tube should have a line from the valve cover, preferably with a catch can installed in line. This is less essential, but a very good idea.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

ok punk, if i wasn't trying to help i would have not read your post to begin with...
half the **** you said didn't make sense, how the **** was i supposed to help you...

little common sense goes a long way, and yes i BS a lot, but i help where i can and see the person did their leg work beforehand...i didn't feel that to be the case...my appologies Sam

to OP, if you want to keep your miata, do yourself a favor and do not go any further without a BOV and boost gauge
go buy somenew vac hose from NAPA or like, and seek advice via photos and guidance of members on how to run your vac lines once you are ready, right now your pissing against the wind...
good luck



ps-i know some people do not have money to just go buy a new gauge BOV and various other goodies, is this is the case for you, save up and then do it the right way, you are risking too much to cut corners here

Savington

iTrader: (31)

If you can't afford a boost gauge and a BOV, you can't afford a turbocharged Miata.

zebro racing

BOV is in place, and the line that was T-ed off the intake mani is now on the BOV. remember what i said about figuring it out as i went; turns out the vac line "between the TB and turbo" was already blocked off at the nipple. i will tell you how it runs tommorow when ive had more time to drive it but it does feel better. how do i adjust the BOV (ie. how do i know when to stop tightening or lossening the screw)? the BOV has a allen screw coming out the top with a retainer nut. does the BOV have to be tested under load or can i do it parked and just rev the motor?

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

if i were you i would not rev the motor very much, you have no idea how much boost you are pushing, and you are not intercooled right now right?
no one can really tell you how tight your BOV should be
what BOV is it and how does it behave at idle? ie does it stay open, is it sealed? etc.
also, once you get your boost gauge, and you know how much boost you should be running, thats how you will be able to figure out how tight your BOV should be, but more on that once you get there
next, i assume you are not running a MAP sensor, i assume so b/c you still have your AFM in place, telling you this b/c with this kind of set up you should really run a recirc valve, not a VTA, make sure you run it from BOV to between turbo and AFM (pre-turbo, naturally)
good luck
now go back to sucking on your pacifier

zebro racing

no intercooler, right. But what difference does that make (appart from cooler air)? my BOV is something like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PURPL...spagenameZWDVW only mine has a second nipple on the non-colored part. somebody (brainiack i think) told me that the other nipple was to help open the BOV quicker, should i run the vac line from between the TB and turbo to this nipple? as far as i can tell the BOV is closed at idle but im not sure as it is being recirced (between the AFM and turbo, naturally). when im driving and i let off the throttle i can hear a whoosh, but it also made that noise before the BOV (only its a bit quieter now with the BOV). apart from running it withouth the recirc tube to the intake how can i tell if its functioning properly?
i should tell you that i have the BOV at its loosest setting (ie. the top screw as far out as possible).
you say i need a boost gauge to tell me how much boost im pushing but the wastegate actuator on my turbo is a 6-7psi actuator off a volvo, are you saying that i cant trust the actuator to limit the boost to 6-7psi?
btw whaaamx5 thats not a pacifier you hear me sucking on, its you wife's tit.
(whaaamx5: at this point im just giving you back **** for kicks, dont take it personal, its ment in fun)
mmmmmm tities