Mechazawa

Here are some quick snap shots I took.












Pretty self explanatory I think, the hot pipe goes into a tube welded on the right side of the top tank, it just points straight up, there are no bends you can't see.

It's a subaru wrx topmount with modified tanks. Hot pipe is 1.75 cold pipe is 2.00.

I had a couple of reasons for doing it this way, one was I liked the dimentions of this Subaru core better than any of the china coolers. The other was that this method of routing the pips made the fabrication easy. I did have to trim the inner lining of the hood where it goes over the hot pipe.

I basically have the same number of bends as if I went around the radiator on both sides with the compressor outlet facing down.

I like it, what do you think?

SloS13

iTrader: (1)

thats kinda ghetto. I like it

Savington

iTrader: (31)

When are you replacing your radiator?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That thing is mega ghetto... no as budget as Lazzer's, but still pretty budget.
I totally dig the 90* bend in the wastegate actuator rod.

I think I can see your IAC port feed tapped off the hot-side IC pipe... and I know the corrugated pipe comes out of your BOV, but where does it go when it disappears under the intake pipe? Did you recirc?

Overall it looks totally functional, but a tad hard on the eyes... kinda like the ugly girl next door who leaves her blinds open for you when she changes. You want to look away, but deep down you know you'd rock that given the opportunity.

Philip

after it explodes, lol

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

Why are you feeding the IAC with hotside air? Keep the IAC feed on the coldside or your blowing hot air thru it. Where's the bov hiding?

Mechazawa

I am poor in both time and money...this thing works quite well though.

I am not all that concerned about the radiator, there is as good 1/4 clearance between it and that pipe (I have room to upgrade to a 2.00 inch hot pipe if I ever want to). Having said that, I have a monstrously thick radiator with aluminum tanks sitting in my basement.

The duct hose runs from the BOV on the cold pipe to a tube welded on at the compressor inlet. That hose is rated to 275F and way cheaper than a BOV check valve, and way easier than making something. I used more or the same on my crossover setup and it held up great for more than a year.

My IAC pipe is like that because it was easy to make, no other reason. The passages in that thing are so tiny, I think the amount of uncooled air it introduces is fairly negligible. It's the least of my problems with the IAC.

ApexOnYou

iTrader: (10)

Nice! I wonder why you have so much more room with your elbow off the TB than I do with mine. Mine is getting pushed in alittle by the IAC line off the TB, the radiator fan shroud, and the IAC connector itself.. You seem to have none of those problems.. Or does yours go from 2.5" to 2"?

Minglor86

iTrader: (1)

Works right?

Thats what matters

Mechazawa

Yeah, the elbow on the TB reduces to 2", that way everything just fits. The 1.6 guys don't realize how easy they have it with the IC piping.

There is no need for big IC pipes anyway.

I had to cancel going to the gap this weekend, too worried about my idle problems, and frankly too broke at the moment. Al least that gives me time to install my big radiator and futz with the idle problem some more.

I can't tell you how happy I was when I first drove the car with this IC setup. The performance is just oh so much improved.

ApexOnYou

iTrader: (10)

Ok that explains it. My IC had 2.5" inlets (evo 8 fmic), so I just ran 2.5 all the way.. Its a tiiight squeeze.