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Old 09-06-2016, 06:00 PM   #1
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Default Better place to weld oil pan fitting.

I have my oil pan off so I can replace seals and crap so I figured why not weld on a AN bung for future turbo oil drain into the pan. I know most people drill and tap the pan but JB weld is jank and why not weld it since I can TIG aluminum and have my own TIG?

My question is there a better place to locate the drain instead of the usual place it's drilled and tapped beneath the AC compressor bracket? I wonder if most drill and tap there because of accessibility with a drill.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:29 PM   #2
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Savington's thread shows a good spot that can be done in-car. If it ain't broke, why fix? Bonus points for not obstructing an oil pan bolt.

Also, his pictures show how that spot has the added bonus of more space from pan to pickup tube to eliminate code brown moments.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by afm View Post
Savington's thread shows a good spot that can be done in-car. If it ain't broke, why fix? Bonus points for not obstructing an oil pan bolt.

Also, his pictures show how that spot has the added bonus of more space from pan to pickup tube to eliminate code brown moments.
My oil pan is off the car. My engine is sitting on a stand. So if you were in my situation you would still thread and JB weld?
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:51 PM   #4
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I think he is saying weld the bung in the standard location. You can do it more in the middle of the pan but you have to figure out where you are not hitting subframe or mounts.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend
I think he is saying weld the bung in the standard location.
This
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:13 PM   #6
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If you have AC. Make sure the bung clears the AC bracket and such before you drill and weld.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:15 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
If you have AC. Make sure the bung clears the AC bracket and such before you drill and weld.
Thanks I will do this. I also need to make sure the hose isnt rubbing on the bracket. Can the AC bracket be clearanced?
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:50 AM   #8
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You are overthinking a problem that does not exist. This is mine, should clear everything. I used an NB with all the amenities to decide where to put it. Only thing I would do differently, is to raise the hole location about .5 in.



Extra clearance over the steering rack and slightly better drainage were my reasons to Raise it a bit. Although neither have been a problem. It was just pretty close to the rack.




Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 09-07-2016 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:07 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
You are overthinking a problem that does not exist. This is mine, should clear everything. I used an NB with all the amenities to decide where to put it. Only thing I would do differently, is to raise the hole location about .5 in.



Extra clearance over the steering rack and slightly better drainage were my reasons to Raise it a bit. Although neither have been a problem. It was just pretty close to the rack.
So i am overthinking but you post photos showing exactly the same overthinking as me? LOL I just want to make sure its in a good place like you. Nice work! But it looks like you don't have AC? Also any tips for welding the fitting on? I have experience welding aluminum but not a fitting don't want to mess it up.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:12 PM   #10
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So I found a nice big crack in my oil pan and spent some time welding that up! It looks like the pan was hit with a sledge hammer the side was dented in above the oil drain and had cracked on the outside and inside. If this wasn't leaking I would be surprised. This might actually be the source of my oil leak which i attributed to oil pan or rear main seal. either way driving around with a cracked oil pan is no good.
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:17 PM   #11
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I don't have ac, but like I said, I chose the spot based off an NB that did have ac.

Sand down to fresh aluminum where you are going to weld. I also made a half *** attempt to sweat out any oil. I did this with a propane torch and a close eye.
Depending on where you source the bung, welding varies. I has US mad ones, they welded nice. I has some flea Bay ones, they welded like doo-doo. Some unknown alloy I'm sure.
Correct filler rod is important, this thing will live at temps above 200.
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
I don't have ac, but like I said, I chose the spot based off an NB that did have ac.

Sand down to fresh aluminum where you are going to weld. I also made a half *** attempt to sweat out any oil. I did this with a propane torch and a close eye.
Depending on where you source the bung, welding varies. I has US mad ones, they welded nice. I has some flea Bay ones, they welded like doo-doo. Some unknown alloy I'm sure.
Correct filler rod is important, this thing will live at temps above 200.
Cool thanks for the info. This is the same I did when welding up cracked oil pan. Sanding scrubbing degreasing acid wash acetone brush w/ stainless brush heating with a propane torch all before welding. It worked ok of course welding cast oil pans I think will always introduce dirt and grime into a weld. I think from old oil seeping out.

Hopefully my fittings are decent and not some kind of crappy welding alloy.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
If you have AC. Make sure the bung clears the AC bracket and such before you drill and weld.
Made this mistake, yanked the AC bracket off and cut a slot out of it. Worked really well.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:09 PM   #14
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The shot in the photo is a bit further forward than is ideal. If you put it between the two triangular ribs on the oil pan then it tucks in nicely against the motor mount.



I wouldn't take the pan off just to put it there, but if you've got it off anyway then it makes for a much better drain geometry than the standard location in front.

--Ian


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