Loki79

As described.
From what I remember there's an O-ring in between there.. Is this a known issue?
Using the FM fuel rail and RC injectors.

Where the hell do I get new O-rings, if that is the case? From RC or from FM? Or OEM from Mazda?
I don't remember from when I put this stuff together :P

18psi

iTrader: (76)

When I 1st installed my id1000's I had a small leak like that as well. removed rail, re-seated injector more firmly, and it went away never to come back again.

Though you could pick up o-rings at pretty much any auto parts store. take an o-ring with you there and just match it up.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you lube the O-rings before you reinstall the injectors.

Loki79

A lack of lubing could be the issue from the start. I just fitted them when I replaced the OEM ones.
Gonna try to just take them off and refit them with a little lubing to see if it's enough.
The biggest issue, is that the injectors aren't tightly fit to the fuel rail. They could easily be pressed a few mm further into the FR.

Is this a normal issue too?

Think I'll go down and try to fix this at once..

mazpr

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes if the O-ring you got is small, grab a small orthodontic rubber bands and use them as spacers.

Make sure that before installation to apply a film of lubricant, enough so there is no resistance. They are suppose to enter smoothly with no resistance whatsoever.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Yup. Mine were same.

Loki79

I went down to check it now, and by the love of god - there's a lot of fuel in the FR.
Probably lost half a litre on the ground, so I hope nobody tosses something glowing under there..

To illustrate my concerns, I'm using a picture:

1. The distance between the FR and the injector. Just to be sure, you have the same experience, 18psi?

2. The rubber between the head and the FR. Removing this will surely seal the distance to the injectors, but is this doable? These rubber thingies were from the OEM FR if I remember correctly.



And there is no doubt as to where the leak is now, and I'll grab 4 new O-rings asap. Gonna be a bitch swapping them out on the street, with gas running down constantly.
There's a SLIGHT danger of fire..

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Yup, you could move them up and down a couple mm.
If you remove the fr spacers I think it will shoften it too much and you might damage something by overtightening the rail and pressing the injectors.

Cookiesoup

if they are stiff to slide in us dawn or vasaline to lub it up.

thats how i got my Subaru injectors in with out tearing up the orings

Loki79

Coolio. O-ringhunting tomorrow then.
The problem is the MASSIVE flow of fuel out of the FR. It still doesn't stop, and I've emptied the FR for sure.

How much can I expect to lose through the FR while it's off?
(The issue here being that the car is parked outside the house on the street, and it's pretty risky, since there's kids around that can get hurt, and I'm gonna have my head stuck in the blast zone)

Loki79

And most important of all: Can I get the FR off without removing the manifold?
It's ******* TIGHT in there, and I need to know if it's doable..

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

since you have an abundance of it, lube them rubbers up with fuel.

depressurize the fuel system before you work on the rail! Derp!

Start the car then pull the fuel pump relay/fuse or something like that.

Either that or just pull off the hose-rail connector and wrap that bitch up in a towel while like a gallon flows out of the rail. Then burn towel.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

remove your fuel cap and it will stop the bleeding

The insulators between the fuel rail and the head must remain in place - they insulate ****.

Loki79

Ok, fuel cap getting removed then.
I'll update those who cares tomorrow when I get more stuff done.

Right now I've got a 5 day old baby to take care of. Thanks for the help so far

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Yes pulling fuel cap helps too.

Yes you have to keep your spacers and insulators.

AND YOUR CAR IS MUCH MORE IMPORANT THAN BABY. FAIL

Loki79

Hehe, fae, you're almost right.
Rebecka has cost me more pr year than any child ever will (knock on wood), but since wednesday, she's second in line for my love

Got myself a station wagon for transport now, so I can use Rebecka for pure joy.
The misses wasn't too happy with using her, getting in and out of a Miata with Sparco seats isn't really cool when you're 8 months pregnant.

Loki79

Took off the O-rings now, and the one with the leak is flawed/cracked. So no doubt there..
Let the search for new ones begin!

And putting everything back together is gonna be a BITCH :(

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

Go to your local auto parts store, buy generic O-rings for 10 cents a piece (or whatever currency you have there) Put two o-rings on each injector if they're too small. Lube up o-rings and slide back into fuel rail.

Win

Loki79

Got them at some pipe-fitting-stuff-store, and they were slightly thicker then the ones I had. I figured it would seal better.. (The alternative was some slightly thinner..)

Lubed them up, fitted them on the injectors, and voila: It's sealed.
For the first time in almost a year, my car doesn't smell like gasoline when I park.

But then ofc, I hear some air-breeze-sound on the cold side, and she doesn't run like she should. So now I have a air leak, and I'm losing boost.
*sigh*

Anywho, thank you for the help. GREET SUCKSESS!!

JasonC SBB

Make sure the ones you got are gasoline-safe.