boosted Miata dies, often.
01-22-2012, 12:59 PM
#25
Slowest Progress Ever
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Where is the BOV on this thing? I bet that is the issue as it isn't recirculating, so it's F'n with the MAF causing it to run like $hit.
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01-22-2012, 01:02 PM
#26
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HornetBall...that photo is a great example of a BOV recirculating to compressor inlet...
However...
Are you seriously running a nonintercooled setup?
However...
Are you seriously running a nonintercooled setup?
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01-22-2012, 01:45 PM
#29
I'm running with WI and no IC for now. That will probably change in the future. For a lower-powered build (running about 9psi and 180HP right now), there are some pros to going this way. It is a safe build. Have put 12,000 miles on it pretty much without issue, including the hottest Texas Summer since 1930.
Really, I think what we're trying to get across to OP is the importance of quality and craftsmanship. It's not just for looks . . . it's for reliability. T-bolt clamps, adel clamps, pipe beads, carefully thought-out routings, quality wiring, heat protection, etc., etc.
Really, I think what we're trying to get across to OP is the importance of quality and craftsmanship. It's not just for looks . . . it's for reliability. T-bolt clamps, adel clamps, pipe beads, carefully thought-out routings, quality wiring, heat protection, etc., etc.
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01-22-2012, 02:11 PM
#31
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Yeah, I'd add at least 8" of pipe between the maf and compressor inlet.
Properly wire in the injectors.
Mount the coilpacks. They like to be grounded.
Get a manual boost controller.
Don't let your brother drive it anymore.
Go over all the IC clamps and make sure you've got a nice airtight seal.
I really hope that your wastegate actuator is not mounted to the turbo with zipties. But if it is, fix that too.
Turn down the boost to like 5-6psi, get it running good and slowly turn it up while paying careful attention to your CALIBRATED wideband sensor and add fuel/pull timing in small increments. Better yet, spend the money on a dyno tune.
Again, tell your brother to stop driving it or you'll do some nasty marine type ---- to him when you get home. The next time your car sees 20psi will most likely be last time your car sees 20psi.
This intake setup worked for me. It got rid of most of the idle droop issues I was having.
Properly wire in the injectors.
Mount the coilpacks. They like to be grounded.
Get a manual boost controller.
Don't let your brother drive it anymore.
Go over all the IC clamps and make sure you've got a nice airtight seal.
I really hope that your wastegate actuator is not mounted to the turbo with zipties. But if it is, fix that too.
Turn down the boost to like 5-6psi, get it running good and slowly turn it up while paying careful attention to your CALIBRATED wideband sensor and add fuel/pull timing in small increments. Better yet, spend the money on a dyno tune.
Again, tell your brother to stop driving it or you'll do some nasty marine type ---- to him when you get home. The next time your car sees 20psi will most likely be last time your car sees 20psi.
This intake setup worked for me. It got rid of most of the idle droop issues I was having.
Last edited by flounder; 01-22-2012 at 02:58 PM.
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01-22-2012, 06:25 PM
#35
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Yea I was going to mention that I hope there are no fuel leaks. There is no way that made 20psi with the cold? side pipe having no clamps. Judging by how close the IC pipes are where the IC should be, it can't be a very big intercooler. Also I too am wondering, does this thing have any sort of bypass valve?
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01-22-2012, 07:04 PM
#40
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There is a clamp on the cold side its just hard to see in the picture. yeah and anything you guys can do to teach me id be appreciative, even if its a game. I'm going to make it all work, as apposed to scraping it and starting over, and im sure its going to be work, but Im all about learning new things.
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