Another Failed Manifold
#9
I think it’s a design flaw. Those tabs are cooling down slower than the rest of the manifold. The tab stays expanded for a lot longer while the pipe has already gone full hard and shrunk back and formed itself around the new tab position. Mean while the tab is still shrinking back to its ambient size which is pulling that pipe with a tremendous amount of force to bend it back to the tabs ambient temperature. Those full hard distortions on the pipe and the welds which probably weren’t relieved properly and are already very hard are being slowly strain hardened to be even harder. Sooner or later it’s just like bending a paper clip forward and backward and it snaps.
That crack between 1 & 2 just happened because heat concentrates in the middle. The inside is bulged out while the outsides are a lot cooler during the cool down period. You get the same action going on. It just slowly bends the manifold back and forth until it cracks
That crack between 1 & 2 just happened because heat concentrates in the middle. The inside is bulged out while the outsides are a lot cooler during the cool down period. You get the same action going on. It just slowly bends the manifold back and forth until it cracks
#17
I've been running a brace from the block/mm to the sched 40 dp for about 2k miles and no cracks on my SSA manifold which is probably similar thin wall mild stainless.
I say hand that mani over to a fabricator. He can tie the flanges up, cut out those pipes and weld in new heavier gauge quality pipes and you can then bolt it back up w/o having to change anything else. Get an ewg flange installed while you're at it.
I say hand that mani over to a fabricator. He can tie the flanges up, cut out those pipes and weld in new heavier gauge quality pipes and you can then bolt it back up w/o having to change anything else. Get an ewg flange installed while you're at it.
#18
I've been running a brace from the block/mm to the sched 40 dp for about 2k miles and no cracks on my SSA manifold which is probably similar thin wall mild stainless.
I say hand that mani over to a fabricator. He can tie the flanges up, cut out those pipes and weld in new heavier gauge quality pipes and you can then bolt it back up w/o having to change anything else. Get an ewg flange installed while you're at it.
I say hand that mani over to a fabricator. He can tie the flanges up, cut out those pipes and weld in new heavier gauge quality pipes and you can then bolt it back up w/o having to change anything else. Get an ewg flange installed while you're at it.
Sometimes these failures are not the fault of the manifold but associated with excessive EGTs. So check that you are not running to lean/to advanced. That can and will kill a thin wall manifold quick.
Mark
#19
Do you have bracing to the turbo? m2cupcar suggested bracing to me very strongly. He was right!
I've been running a cheap manifold for 13 months of dd with a heavy turbo, around 20 passes at the drag strip, quarter of a track day and probably 150+ autox runs with no problems at all. It is braced.
My (probably incorrect) theory is that you have this heavy object that creates a pretty good moment on the manifold. Maybe not so much the static weight but the vibration and other forces that eventually break the manifold.
At autox there is non stop brutal heating and cooling. 6 to 10 cycles of heavy boost and cooling in 45-60 minutes.
My bracing doesn't so much support the turbo but more dampens any oscillation. It's not pretty but it's worked so far.
I've been running a cheap manifold for 13 months of dd with a heavy turbo, around 20 passes at the drag strip, quarter of a track day and probably 150+ autox runs with no problems at all. It is braced.
My (probably incorrect) theory is that you have this heavy object that creates a pretty good moment on the manifold. Maybe not so much the static weight but the vibration and other forces that eventually break the manifold.
At autox there is non stop brutal heating and cooling. 6 to 10 cycles of heavy boost and cooling in 45-60 minutes.
My bracing doesn't so much support the turbo but more dampens any oscillation. It's not pretty but it's worked so far.
#20
Haha FIXED!... So I gave it a swing to see what whould happen and how it would turn out. Don't look to bad I guess. I tryed to grind out the crack a bit the welded it with high amp and low feed. Figure I didnt want it to be all wire. Not sure if im going to use it yet
(The rust is from acid wash when I cleaned it..?)
(The rust is from acid wash when I cleaned it..?)
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