BOV location with AFM
11-09-2009, 01:52 PM
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BOV location with AFM
So far the BOV is located between the TB and the AFM and car is running fine. 
I have had several discussions and some agree and others dont, where is the best location...
TB/BOV/AFM or TB/AFM/BOV?
I have had several discussions and some agree and others dont, where is the best location...
TB/BOV/AFM or TB/AFM/BOV?
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11-09-2009, 03:29 PM
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ok, thanks
I asked
TB Throttle Body
AFM Air FLow Meter
BOV Blow Off Valve
Todd, I got it exactly like you said, right now at 10 psi with 10@1 pistons, 550cc, ghetto fuel management by the latest and greatest Apexi SAFC and adjusting flap on the RX-7 T-II AFM, 93 octane. The local auto shop does not have NGK6 or 7 so I have been running it with 210 of compression w/ NGK 5. The engine has a few other bolt ons from when it was all motor.
My wideband decided to expire a week after purchasing it, so now I am driving on the rich side.
I ask about the BOV location because some people say it must be in front of the AFM, others in front of the TB. I prefer in front of the TB, it does not hurt to ask, thanks for the responses.
Waiting now for the forged rods as I could tell the T3/T4 can easily hit 15 to 20 psi, with the stock rods no more than 10 for now and waiting for the wideband to come back from warranty. I have to play with the throttle or the car will be spinning from 1st to 3rd if going pedal to the metal, its like driving a totally different car, amazing feeling as long as the engine does not blow up, LOL!
TB Throttle Body
AFM Air FLow Meter
BOV Blow Off Valve
Todd, I got it exactly like you said, right now at 10 psi with 10@1 pistons, 550cc, ghetto fuel management by the latest and greatest Apexi SAFC and adjusting flap on the RX-7 T-II AFM, 93 octane. The local auto shop does not have NGK6 or 7 so I have been running it with 210 of compression w/ NGK 5. The engine has a few other bolt ons from when it was all motor.
My wideband decided to expire a week after purchasing it, so now I am driving on the rich side.
I ask about the BOV location because some people say it must be in front of the AFM, others in front of the TB. I prefer in front of the TB, it does not hurt to ask, thanks for the responses.
Waiting now for the forged rods as I could tell the T3/T4 can easily hit 15 to 20 psi, with the stock rods no more than 10 for now and waiting for the wideband to come back from warranty. I have to play with the throttle or the car will be spinning from 1st to 3rd if going pedal to the metal, its like driving a totally different car, amazing feeling as long as the engine does not blow up, LOL!
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11-09-2009, 05:09 PM
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My AFM is after the intercooler
TB/BOV/AFM/FMIC
By placing the AFM after the intercooler it is reading boosted air (temps) compared to before the turbo (ambient), although my question was not about that, thanks anyway.
TB/BOV/AFM/FMIC
By placing the AFM after the intercooler it is reading boosted air (temps) compared to before the turbo (ambient), although my question was not about that, thanks anyway.
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11-09-2009, 06:43 PM
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I dont see how you could possibly do a blow through AFM without any MAP compesation. The stock pressure sensor is designed only for reading changes it atmospheric pressure, the ECU has no idea what to make of boost.
Also, I cannot beleive you are using an apexi, do you have any idea what it actually does? by "tuning" in the fuel with the apexi you are also changing the timing, so when you tell it to pull fuel in order to run bigger injectors youre also dramatically increasing ignition advance, which is an awesome way to blow your engine up.
But you obviously know exactly what youre doing. 10 PSI on a T3/T04, thats just like 10 PSI on a GT2554, right? Oh, and you dont have a wideband on the car? yah those things are overrated anyway.
Im just going to wait for the pictures of melted pistons youll be posting pretty soon.
Also, I cannot beleive you are using an apexi, do you have any idea what it actually does? by "tuning" in the fuel with the apexi you are also changing the timing, so when you tell it to pull fuel in order to run bigger injectors youre also dramatically increasing ignition advance, which is an awesome way to blow your engine up.
But you obviously know exactly what youre doing. 10 PSI on a T3/T04, thats just like 10 PSI on a GT2554, right? Oh, and you dont have a wideband on the car? yah those things are overrated anyway.
Im just going to wait for the pictures of melted pistons youll be posting pretty soon.
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11-10-2009, 01:50 AM
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Here for the lawl's
I imagine the so called "tune" that you had to put on the afc to get the car to not flood from the double sized injectors you have without a proper ecu fuel multiplier adjustment is making your timing map waaaaaaaay off.
But then again there really isn't any science involved in tuning because the real thing that makes a engine run properly ...
...well ..
..
I imagine the so called "tune" that you had to put on the afc to get the car to not flood from the double sized injectors you have without a proper ecu fuel multiplier adjustment is making your timing map waaaaaaaay off.
But then again there really isn't any science involved in tuning because the real thing that makes a engine run properly ...
...well ..
..
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11-10-2009, 08:25 AM
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LOL, got to love it...
FYI: On the first few days I ran the turbo with 87 octane and did many 10 psi passes during the night and then the next day here in Florida, so it was very warm weather.
Yes it is magic, all I have to say it revs hard like a **** from 4000 to 7000 at 10 psi, strong strong, I cannot explain, its as if the car is been hit from behind by a train once the turbo kicks in. I paid close attention how quickly it would rev (burning of fuel) and what point it would be more or less and from there adjust the SAFC. There was some misfiring the other night because of too much fuel and loss of power when I went 93 octane so I had to pull fuel instead of adding on the mid-range.
I have driven the car like that for the past week boosting it at 10 psi strong, no engine knocking, feels with plenty of power and I know I can get more but as I said waiting for the Wideband to get back.
In fact I decided one day to see how much it does, went a little richer with the SAFC and raised boost to 12 psi and ran without any knocking, smooth controllable power at the top end. Went again and did another few passes at 15 psi, once there its another different world. Those 15 psi made the 10 feel like nothing, its incredible how much difference 5 pounds make on that range.
Timing map, pressure sensor, etc etc bla bla... When I drive it all I pay attention is how is the power transition, how the engine revs under load? is it quick? takes some time?
Right now it drives exactly as if it was naturally aspirated. A friend jumped in and he stated the same thing, and started complaining the turbo could not be felt at all and asked if he was going to tell when the turbo kicked in, LOL. Oh man, did I laugh... Yeah, "You will".
Engine goes out of vacuum, accelerates smoothly and when 3500 to 4000 are reached the pull is evident, depending how aggresive I go on the throttle I can make the tires loose traction even at 6000 rpms. I shift to the next gear, minimal turbo lag, smooth power band all the way to maybe 7000 (redline on mine is 7500), no engine knocking, stuttering, misfiring...
I ran the car at 10 psi with 87 and nothing happened with NGK5, so I knew that with 93 octane it would be running fine, just minor tweaking with the SAFC. Yes, I pull fuel instead of adding.
P51 we could meet up some day as I live in Jacksonville, not too far from St. Augustine and laugh a little bit more, ROFL! In fact I will bring my camera and take a video and post it here so everyone can laugh at me parting you out, LOL!
FYI: On the first few days I ran the turbo with 87 octane and did many 10 psi passes during the night and then the next day here in Florida, so it was very warm weather.
Yes it is magic, all I have to say it revs hard like a **** from 4000 to 7000 at 10 psi, strong strong, I cannot explain, its as if the car is been hit from behind by a train once the turbo kicks in. I paid close attention how quickly it would rev (burning of fuel) and what point it would be more or less and from there adjust the SAFC. There was some misfiring the other night because of too much fuel and loss of power when I went 93 octane so I had to pull fuel instead of adding on the mid-range.
I have driven the car like that for the past week boosting it at 10 psi strong, no engine knocking, feels with plenty of power and I know I can get more but as I said waiting for the Wideband to get back.
In fact I decided one day to see how much it does, went a little richer with the SAFC and raised boost to 12 psi and ran without any knocking, smooth controllable power at the top end. Went again and did another few passes at 15 psi, once there its another different world. Those 15 psi made the 10 feel like nothing, its incredible how much difference 5 pounds make on that range.
Timing map, pressure sensor, etc etc bla bla... When I drive it all I pay attention is how is the power transition, how the engine revs under load? is it quick? takes some time?
Right now it drives exactly as if it was naturally aspirated. A friend jumped in and he stated the same thing, and started complaining the turbo could not be felt at all and asked if he was going to tell when the turbo kicked in, LOL. Oh man, did I laugh... Yeah, "You will".
Engine goes out of vacuum, accelerates smoothly and when 3500 to 4000 are reached the pull is evident, depending how aggresive I go on the throttle I can make the tires loose traction even at 6000 rpms. I shift to the next gear, minimal turbo lag, smooth power band all the way to maybe 7000 (redline on mine is 7500), no engine knocking, stuttering, misfiring...
I ran the car at 10 psi with 87 and nothing happened with NGK5, so I knew that with 93 octane it would be running fine, just minor tweaking with the SAFC. Yes, I pull fuel instead of adding.
P51 we could meet up some day as I live in Jacksonville, not too far from St. Augustine and laugh a little bit more, ROFL! In fact I will bring my camera and take a video and post it here so everyone can laugh at me parting you out, LOL!
Last edited by mazpr; 11-10-2009 at 09:32 AM.
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11-10-2009, 10:03 AM
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Full TIlt, lets meet and see your setup as well, you live in Jacksonville, who knows we can be BFF, LOL! OMG Cant wait, love Miataturbo.net , better than EatdaHaminme.com
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11-11-2009, 12:29 AM
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Man, I know you think you got this down and everything... and that you know what your doing.. but I can tell you this is so far from reality.
Can you please for judgment of your knowledge here -
1. Explain to me what a safc physically and honestly does to your car? Dont try and google it.
2. When you do have a wideband what should it read at lets say 4-8 psi on a engine with 9.1.1 compression, with a mid sized turbo under full load in lets say 4th gear ( guessing its 1.1 ratio on your tranny )?
First from a person that has tuned way more cars with real management systems than you have probably ever driven ...
10 psi on a safc is not something id ever do and feel safe about.. much less 15...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazpr View Post
There was some misfiring the other night because of too much fuel and loss of power when I went 93 octane so I had to pull fuel instead of adding on the mid-range.
Timing map, pressure sensor, etc etc bla bla... When I drive it all I pay attention is how is the power transition, how the engine revs under load? is it quick? takes some time?
This ^ kind of post as well as many others Full tilt highlighted make anyone with seasoned knowledge of engine management instantly facepalm.
Please stop beating on your car until things are setup properly before you destroy your engine.
Can you please for judgment of your knowledge here -
1. Explain to me what a safc physically and honestly does to your car? Dont try and google it.
2. When you do have a wideband what should it read at lets say 4-8 psi on a engine with 9.1.1 compression, with a mid sized turbo under full load in lets say 4th gear ( guessing its 1.1 ratio on your tranny )?
First from a person that has tuned way more cars with real management systems than you have probably ever driven ...
10 psi on a safc is not something id ever do and feel safe about.. much less 15...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazpr View Post
There was some misfiring the other night because of too much fuel and loss of power when I went 93 octane so I had to pull fuel instead of adding on the mid-range.
Timing map, pressure sensor, etc etc bla bla... When I drive it all I pay attention is how is the power transition, how the engine revs under load? is it quick? takes some time?
This ^ kind of post as well as many others Full tilt highlighted make anyone with seasoned knowledge of engine management instantly facepalm.
Please stop beating on your car until things are setup properly before you destroy your engine.
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