cast iron or stainless steel
#1
cast iron or stainless steel
I have a 1991 miata with 33,000miles on it, 5sp, a/c and cruise. I would like do a DIY turbo IC kit to it. I have seen 2 types of exhaust manifolds, cast iron and stainless steel. Is it better to go one way or another? what hp levels can the stock 1.6 take and live? thanks, Scott.
#2
cast iron is usually a log style.
stainless steel is usually the tubular style.
Completely different manifolds. Do a basic search on both styles to decide which will fit your goals and budget. One is cheaper and more durable but less power gains and flow, the other is much more expensive and makes more power but has a higher chance of cracking.
Your question is too vague and you have tons of research to do.
stainless steel is usually the tubular style.
Completely different manifolds. Do a basic search on both styles to decide which will fit your goals and budget. One is cheaper and more durable but less power gains and flow, the other is much more expensive and makes more power but has a higher chance of cracking.
Your question is too vague and you have tons of research to do.
#7
I think the answer you are looking for is that they are both crap. And the 1.6 can handle anywhere from 150 to 250hp reliably, depending on how horrible/good your build is. Many people have destroyed their motors at low boost. This forum is filled with all the information you need. Do some research.
#8
Disregard my previous statements. I'm not even going to waste my time.
I suggest a whole lot of reading the stickies and searching before you post more fail threads or a thorough flaming is in your future.
And no I'm not being mean. I'm actually helping you fail less.
#11
thanks for the info. I tried to search on the forms for the comparison I had asked about before posting and nothing came up. I have read the discussion "Underdog's de-Greddified Sunburst Yellow" where he used the cast manifold I was talking about and seemed to be happy with it and nobody had said anything about it being junk, so I thought it was an ok part. I have about 10 hours of reading different posts to see what you guys are having success with and what to stay away from. I think I will just buy a complete kit from BEGI or someone else with proven success, Thanks again for your input.
#12
thanks for the info. I tried to search on the forms for the comparison I had asked about before posting and nothing came up. I have read the discussion "Underdog's de-Greddified Sunburst Yellow" where he used the cast manifold I was talking about and seemed to be happy with it and nobody had said anything about it being junk, so I thought it was an ok part. I have about 10 hours of reading different posts to see what you guys are having success with and what to stay away from. I think I will just buy a complete kit from BEGI or someone else with proven success, Thanks again for your input.
#15
its just a daily driver I have had for about 8 years. I am not looking to change the rotation of the earth, just wanted to get what power I could without getting into the motor for major upgrades. I drag raced inline 4 cyl motorcycles from 82-04, running carb turbo gas, carb turbo NOS, and my last 6 years were on a turbo inj alcohol @ 52 lbs boost. Thought I could pick up what you car guys run and build it my self, part of the fun is building it. I know what works in bikes, the weak points, on my Miata, I don't, just what i read.
#16
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,490
Total Cats: 4,079
Just to keep some informative information in this thread, if you have to buy an ebay manifold... make sure it's a cast unit like this:
Anything available on ebay but for the one above, or an actual name brand manifold will fail.
Never purchase the one below:
Anything available on ebay but for the one above, or an actual name brand manifold will fail.
Never purchase the one below:
#17
its just a daily driver I have had for about 8 years. I am not looking to change the rotation of the earth, just wanted to get what power I could without getting into the motor for major upgrades. I drag raced inline 4 cyl motorcycles from 82-04, running carb turbo gas, carb turbo NOS, and my last 6 years were on a turbo inj alcohol @ 52 lbs boost. Thought I could pick up what you car guys run and build it my self, part of the fun is building it. I know what works in bikes, the weak points, on my Miata, I don't, just what i read.
#19
I hear you, sold my boat and have the cash to go forward with something, looking at complete kits from the big guys, or doing my own thing, still reading up on everything, mostly ECU's now. I will for sure follow Braineack's post if I do my own thing. Have pages of notes here to compare. from what i understand to run low boost say up to 6psi, I would need some type of fuel pressure regulator. To run say 7psi or more add to that some type of ignition retard, and more boost than that I may as well get a different ECU, possibly a mega squirt, and larger injectors/fuel pump, and inter cool it.
#20
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,176
Total Cats: 1,680
I hear you, sold my boat and have the cash to go forward with something, looking at complete kits from the big guys, or doing my own thing, still reading up on everything, mostly ECU's now. I will for sure follow Braineack's post if I do my own thing. Have pages of notes here to compare. from what i understand to run low boost say up to 6psi, I would need some type of fuel pressure regulator. To run say 7psi or more add to that some type of ignition retard, and more boost than that I may as well get a different ECU, possibly a mega squirt, and larger injectors/fuel pump, and inter cool it.
After that you will learn that while an AFPR will work it is less the ideal and you should probably just use the money to go straight with an after market ECU.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
09-30-2018 01:09 PM
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM