coltonr

So I am currently getting my turbo kit together and I was reading the thread on here with the information regarding everything relating to turbo setups and in the thread.it.mentions that the stock 1.6L motor has an oil return port located by the oil filter. However I am trying to figure out why in the thread it mentions.using this can be a headache in the long run.
Any info on why this is problematic?
I did some research but.no one mentions specifically what the problem is so any help would be great.

Thanks

Colton

curly

iTrader: (25)

It's on the wrong side of the block. And because they're gravity fed, you need to keep it pointed downhill at all times. So you're either wrapping it around the back where you can't see it or in front with all the pulleys or belts.

coltonr

Ooh alright that makes considerably more sense then tapping the pan is def a better option then

RyanRaduechel

iTrader: (10)

You get one loop and it doesnt drain properly, you say bye bye to oil seals

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, I ran this oil return location for waay too long. Needless to say my oil pan has been tapped and running correctly for a while now, and I would highly recommend you tap it right away so you don't burn oil.

coltonr

Thanks guys ha ha good to know that's a very poor design considering they give us a feed but a return on the opposite side of the block dur dur dur. Tapping it will be then. I'm pretty sure they said a 10x1.25 for the bung going into the pan correct?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

It doesn't really matter what specific thread you put in the pan, it just needs to match whatever fitting you're going to screw into it.

Most commonly, people around here use a 1/2" NPT thread, as adapter fittings are commonly available which will screw into this and then mate with a -10AN for the drain line itself.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I used this and a 3/8 brass npt barb.

http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=192

Applied JB weld to the threads, threaded it in, applied more jb weld on the outside. Worked like a charm

coltonr

Thanks for the link ha

event

iTrader: (1)

I bought a cheap 9/16" drill bit from Lowe's for like $8 and a $8 3/8" NPT tap from McMaster and it worked fine. It's really not as hard as I was expecting, just nerve-wracking.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Just to back up Mazda on this one, you have to remember our engine came from a FWD turbo application, so the engine was sideways in the bay, unlike ours. And that capped drain was for a catch can IIRC, not the turbo.

coltonr

I guess that's true I'm surprised they still wouldn't try n keep stuff together on the same side of the block.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Remember- the FWD/AWD engines had a different oil pan. They did keep everything together on the same side- we just don't have the same hardware in the MX5 fitment as they did on the GTX:

coltonr

Oh cool thanks for the diagram that makes things quite a bit clearer shame we.never got.offered that.motor from the factory as an option

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

While I agree it is a shame, its also a blessing. Keep in mind how cheap these cars are now days, and how cheap replacement motors/chassis are when you wreck them.

If they came turbo they would be much more expensive, not as many would be around, the motors would beaten up and more expensive, more ricers would have miatas, etc.

I kind of like the little known fact that our B6/BP motors are basically boost ready and strong as ****.

coltonr

Iron block ftw!