gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I'm not entirely sure where to post this because it's both diy and tuning related but here it goes.

Basically I deleted the charcoal canister in the engine bay (I have an 01). I run a ms2 standalone. My tune was fine out of boost but in boost it would go really rich. I consulted thirdgen and he told me to retune which I did and it feels fine now. I was just wondering if I'm doing something wrong because I hadn't seen that people had any issues (tune related) with removing it.

So to the best of my knowledge the routing for the canister is like so.

Line from main canister --> little canister --> solenoid --> intake manifold.

Now it's:

Line from main canister --> nothing. And the line from the intake manifold is capped.

Am I just being paranoid or should I need to retune my car after doing this? Or did I do it wrong? I could just be being paranoid because in the past week I've had a minor crash and set my car on fire so I'm a little wary of anything that may be off.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I think the solenoid or some kind of vacuum crap in that area is not emissions related. I think it does something with the injectors, but I can't remember what.
Anybody know?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

No retune needed. The electronicy solenoid thingy can be disconnected. take out the main can too so that way your car can pollute the air without you even having to drive it.

Also, please. Details on your little crash that started a fire. Don't hear about fires too often!

soviet

iTrader: (10)

take the hard metal line that goes to charcoal can and bend it so it points downwards.
remove everything (can, solenoid, vacuum lines)

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Everything is removed the only thing different is I don't have the metal line turned down or capped.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

next time you are under the car just remove the metal line. It takes 2 minutes.

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

I spun into a bank. Apparently I hit hard enough to dislodge the battery. It shifted enough that the positive terminal was virtually touching the battery tie down. So over bumps it would contact and short out. I investigated over the last weekend. When I shook the car (as if I hit a bump) I smelled some burning and saw smoke from my trunk. Fortunately the short burned through the battery tie down quickly and I pulled the carpet out and stopped it without any further issue.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I told you you're gonna FaeFlora your own dyno day!

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Haha nope. I retuned it and it pulls like a champ. With the rain its pointless to even try and accelerate in 2nd it just spins...

Basically I just had to pull fuel from everywhere Idk what the issue was

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Good to know that the "just connect the middle lines together with one of the hoses from the canister" is no longer in favor. I'll be pulling my hardlines out when the car's in the air for the engine change.

Also, never seen mentioned. Was everyone's bracket epoxied/glued/chemwelded in as well as being bolted?

v01canic

iTrader: (1)

here is a great write up.

Charcoal Canister Removel - Mechanical & Electrical - MX5Nutz Forum

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Thanks I looked at that one. It's different for the NB's though. I thought about doing a quick write up but its pretty easy to figure out

fmcokc

please do as those of us with NB's are listening.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

This is how you remove for NB.

Take off evap line. Take off all vaccum hoses and mystery devices connected to that evap line. Hit with hammer. Loop all other vaccum lines left hanging. Done.

If unsure of what something is, then look in factory service manual. Search for all things with the word "emissions" and "charcoal". Apply sawzall. Done.

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

I'll try and get some pictures this week

fmcokc

Somehow, this and the Avatar does not inspire confidence

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Ninja edit!

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Read his ENTIRE build thread (linked in his sig) and you will understand.