Compound boost: EFR 7670 into Coldside FFS W/ H20/Meth into 10.5:1 VVT Built Engine
#101
Then there's this guy with an ebay manifold, trapping 93 in 1/8 and 118 in 1/4....
https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...y-turbo-72172/
#103
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232 whp
I used this calculator: Wallace Racing HP Calculator For 1/8th Mile
#104
I used this calculator: Wallace Racing HP Calculator For 1/8th Mile
Assuming the cars weighst about 2400lbs, trapping at 87mph would mean...
232 whp
Assuming the cars weighst about 2400lbs, trapping at 87mph would mean...
232 whp
#106
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I give up. I haven't posted ANY dyno or any HP numbers. On m.net I said plus or minus 50 whp. I also said estimate. And I said its cutting out. And I can't find 3 rd at the track. Why does everyone care so much about this? And take everything out of context. Makes no sense. Not even good trolling when you take everything out of context. As said new setup only went 83 mph in the 1/8, not 87!
#112
I just read through your thread on Miata.net. Is the fastest MPH you have gone 83.2 in the 1/8th? I saw a reference of 87 MPH but I could not find documentation that you have gone that fast.
Anyway if I may, lets start with the set-up you are currently running. You mentioned that you are going to keep your AFR in the 9's. If you think you are doing this to keep your motor healthy, you are kidding yourself. If you continue to run it like that, you can kiss your cylinder walls goodbye. I recommend that you get your AFR to the tried and trued setting that so many have had success with.
The next thing I would do is make sure you have all your spark issues corrected. You never mentioned the heat range of your plugs. With the turbo you are running, I would go 2 steps colder. Also, you said you were playing around with plug gap. I would stick with between .025 and .030 gap. If you are still having issues with spark, then you need to address the ignitions components.
Then I would work on your timing. If you are smart, you will run race gas at the drag strip until you are confident in your tune, even if you are planning on a conservative pump gas tune. This will give you a margin of safety just in case you make a mistake somewhere.
I would not even consider doing a turbo/supercharger hybrid until you have done all the above. You may find that your priorities change when the car actually runs right. If it were me, I would ditch the blower and use nitrous as your spooling/off the line fix. It is much easier, and has been proven to work.
My
Anyway if I may, lets start with the set-up you are currently running. You mentioned that you are going to keep your AFR in the 9's. If you think you are doing this to keep your motor healthy, you are kidding yourself. If you continue to run it like that, you can kiss your cylinder walls goodbye. I recommend that you get your AFR to the tried and trued setting that so many have had success with.
The next thing I would do is make sure you have all your spark issues corrected. You never mentioned the heat range of your plugs. With the turbo you are running, I would go 2 steps colder. Also, you said you were playing around with plug gap. I would stick with between .025 and .030 gap. If you are still having issues with spark, then you need to address the ignitions components.
Then I would work on your timing. If you are smart, you will run race gas at the drag strip until you are confident in your tune, even if you are planning on a conservative pump gas tune. This will give you a margin of safety just in case you make a mistake somewhere.
I would not even consider doing a turbo/supercharger hybrid until you have done all the above. You may find that your priorities change when the car actually runs right. If it were me, I would ditch the blower and use nitrous as your spooling/off the line fix. It is much easier, and has been proven to work.
My
#113
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I just read through your thread on Miata.net. Is the fastest MPH you have gone 83.2 in the 1/8th? I saw a reference of 87 MPH but I could not find documentation that you have gone that fast.
Anyway if I may, lets start with the set-up you are currently running. You mentioned that you are going to keep your AFR in the 9's. If you think you are doing this to keep your motor healthy, you are kidding yourself. If you continue to run it like that, you can kiss your cylinder walls goodbye. I recommend that you get your AFR to the tried and trued setting that so many have had success with.
The next thing I would do is make sure you have all your spark issues corrected. You never mentioned the heat range of your plugs. With the turbo you are running, I would go 2 steps colder. Also, you said you were playing around with plug gap. I would stick with between .025 and .030 gap. If you are still having issues with spark, then you need to address the ignitions components.
Then I would work on your timing. If you are smart, you will run race gas at the drag strip until you are confident in your tune, even if you are planning on a conservative pump gas tune. This will give you a margin of safety just in case you make a mistake somewhere.
I would not even consider doing a turbo/supercharger hybrid until you have done all the above. You may find that your priorities change when the car actually runs right. If it were me, I would ditch the blower and use nitrous as your spooling/off the line fix. It is much easier, and has been proven to work.
My
Anyway if I may, lets start with the set-up you are currently running. You mentioned that you are going to keep your AFR in the 9's. If you think you are doing this to keep your motor healthy, you are kidding yourself. If you continue to run it like that, you can kiss your cylinder walls goodbye. I recommend that you get your AFR to the tried and trued setting that so many have had success with.
The next thing I would do is make sure you have all your spark issues corrected. You never mentioned the heat range of your plugs. With the turbo you are running, I would go 2 steps colder. Also, you said you were playing around with plug gap. I would stick with between .025 and .030 gap. If you are still having issues with spark, then you need to address the ignitions components.
Then I would work on your timing. If you are smart, you will run race gas at the drag strip until you are confident in your tune, even if you are planning on a conservative pump gas tune. This will give you a margin of safety just in case you make a mistake somewhere.
I would not even consider doing a turbo/supercharger hybrid until you have done all the above. You may find that your priorities change when the car actually runs right. If it were me, I would ditch the blower and use nitrous as your spooling/off the line fix. It is much easier, and has been proven to work.
My
I did buy a new ignition system so yes, that's getting fixed ASAP.
I have 2 heat range cooler race plugs going in too.
And yes, I'll be getting everything sorted before compounding. I don't wanna b old another motor if I don't have to. That head wasn't cheap and took a while to build.
#115
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#116
Besides that pic(s) posted all the time I have yet to see a build thread on that car or shared results and testing and what it even put down, etc.
So if Pat actually documents and shares with us his whole journey (which he intends to, whether its win or fail), he will pretty much pioneer this.
So if Pat actually documents and shares with us his whole journey (which he intends to, whether its win or fail), he will pretty much pioneer this.
#117
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True. although its been done plenty with other cars, even with pretty similar components, such as the god awful M45 poopercharger.
Its a balance between parasitic loss of the supercharger and higher IATs post SC'er without an intercooler, and greatly improved scavenging.
What wins out? Its hard to say.
Current tune:
We also tried bypassing the SC to see what effect it has. Here is a turbo only curve at 16psi. Looks like typical shape for a turbo plot. Drivability would suffer at the lower rpms on the track.
And at the same boost level a comparison with twincharge. Torque curve is flattened out and wider by about 1000rpms.
We also tried bypassing the SC to see what effect it has. Here is a turbo only curve at 16psi. Looks like typical shape for a turbo plot. Drivability would suffer at the lower rpms on the track.
And at the same boost level a comparison with twincharge. Torque curve is flattened out and wider by about 1000rpms.
What wins out? Its hard to say.
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