bonanza

Hi Everyone,

I just recently purchased a 1990 Miata with 70K miles that runs great, just a little ugly. I wanted to put a modest turbo on it running 5PSI maybe even 8PSI.

I've been checking EBAY etc... for parts to cobble up a system and wanted to know which is better a cast manifold or stainless? Stainless would be lighter but I suspect it would be more likely to crack.

Regards

Bonanza

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Lightness of the manifold is irrelevant from a car weight standpoint. Look at the BEGi-S kit for a low boost application. You can find everything you need by searching for this.

mx594m

iTrader: (1)

same answer/response you got to this question when you poised it on M.net - lol

are you lazy or just hard-headed?
try reading and learning

bonanza

Dear MX594M,

I'm don't even know what m.net is, and if there is someone else with the user name Bonanza, I understand your reply. It's interesting that I get flamed on my first post. BTW, I'm not lazy and have read a lot of material. I was asking others opinion on the matter.

Respectfully,

Bonanza

mx594m

iTrader: (1)

m.net is miata.net
someone over there has posted a highly similar post, old ugly miata
looking for cheapest way to boost
as I said, high similar post to yours
if it is not you, my apologies

bonanza

No worries, there are probably a lot of 1990 ugly Miata's due to age. That's why I bought it, gives me a chance to make upgrades both mechanically and cosmetically at a low entry price. Body kits seem to be cheaper than body panel!!!

BTW, apology not required.

mx594m

iTrader: (1)

I would not call a 90 or a 94 ugly, I like my front mounted air brakes

a 90 with less than 100K miles is a low mileage treasure
do you have a short nose crank? are you aware of the issue?

the 1.6 is a revy engine, responds well to smaller turbos/churbos

bonanza

Mine is ugly because it needs new rocker panels, front fenders, paint and a new convertible top. I'm going to repair the rocker rust damage, order new fenders (haven't decided on fiberglass or metal). But mechanically it's very good with only 70K original miles. Don't know what crank I have. How do I identify it? What are the issues?

dustinb

If ebay is the only place you will buy things then the cast manifold is the better way to go. What are your plans for turbo, downpipe, engine management, injectors, exhaust, intercooler and tuning? Not to mention that weak 1.6 differential that will destroy itself. Might as well upgrade the clutch while you're at it.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Get a BEGi-Shanghai kit, bug Braineack or Reverant to build you a MS, get injectors, profit.

It's the cheapest, easiest, and best solution for what you want. Yes, it will run you less than the eBay crap.

mx594m

iTrader: (1)

short nose crankshaft

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...rt+nose+crankt

if you keep the boost [e.g., torque] low enough, you can delay a lot of the above
but when the diff eats itself, plan for a 1.8 torsen conversion/replacement

you do know that boost is addictive, right? and all addictive habits cost money

what part of world do you call home?

bonanza

Thanks for the info on the crank. I know horsepower is addictive, spent many years racing IROC and motorcycles. This car is going to be built as a fun car for my wife. I'd really like to keep it to 5 to 8lbs boost. Good Sunday car. Home is Toronto, Canada.

I'm not trying to squeeze every last ounce of performance out of this, just overall drivability with a small increase in horsepower. I have planned on buying a 1.8 diff as a long term upgrade.