COP Thread
02-26-2008, 11:08 AM
#981
I just fired up my COP conversion for the first time. OE ECU, 01 Celica GT coils, new Toyota connectors, and harness connectors hacked off the back of my dead OE coils. Started immediately, good tach signal, nice even idle.
I did the mounting a little differently. I used some aluminum U-channel we had lying around, plus a bracket made from .125" aluminum flat stock. The bracket bolts to the center valve cover bolt, then the U-channel is held onto the the bracket using a 10mm nut and bolt. There's nothing to keep the packs from rotating, other than the pressure from the U-channel, which is enough that they can't be moved by hand when snugged down.
Great writeup, thanks all!
I did the mounting a little differently. I used some aluminum U-channel we had lying around, plus a bracket made from .125" aluminum flat stock. The bracket bolts to the center valve cover bolt, then the U-channel is held onto the the bracket using a 10mm nut and bolt. There's nothing to keep the packs from rotating, other than the pressure from the U-channel, which is enough that they can't be moved by hand when snugged down.
Great writeup, thanks all!
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02-26-2008, 12:19 PM
#982
Nice, I like the bar - I almost did something like that myself. Heck, you could use wing nuts to keep the coilpacks "hand removable", like in a normal car. :-)
No, I tapped the plate with a $2 tap from my FLAPS. I was worried it would be too thin, but it worked out. It's only a thread or two deep, but it works better than I would have expected. So my plate is flat on bottom up to my ability to cut my bolts to the right length.
No, I tapped the plate with a $2 tap from my FLAPS. I was worried it would be too thin, but it worked out. It's only a thread or two deep, but it works better than I would have expected. So my plate is flat on bottom up to my ability to cut my bolts to the right length.
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02-26-2008, 02:14 PM
#984
Nice, I like the bar - I almost did something like that myself. Heck, you could use wing nuts to keep the coilpacks "hand removable", like in a normal car. :-)
No, I tapped the plate with a $2 tap from my FLAPS. I was worried it would be too thin, but it worked out. It's only a thread or two deep, but it works better than I would have expected. So my plate is flat on bottom up to my ability to cut my bolts to the right length.
No, I tapped the plate with a $2 tap from my FLAPS. I was worried it would be too thin, but it worked out. It's only a thread or two deep, but it works better than I would have expected. So my plate is flat on bottom up to my ability to cut my bolts to the right length.
Mine sits flush as well, I just used a drill bit almost the same diameter as my flat head bolts and they tucked into the bracket.
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02-26-2008, 02:31 PM
#985
Uh huh, that was Braineak's claim as well. I'm sure it's fine, too, since there IS a gap down there. But what I don't like about it is that (it seems? Correct me if I'm wrong) to get the coils off you have to pull the plate, since there's nothing to keep the flatheads from turning.
Anyway, for all the care I put into making it, I did it upside down so my plate sticks past the back of the engine and has a gap at the front. I would concider doing a bar on the top next time, though I'm happy with what I got.
Actually, maybe I'll look at just tapping the valve cover itself next time. It's thicker, clean, and already there. I wonder if it would leak?
Anyway, for all the care I put into making it, I did it upside down so my plate sticks past the back of the engine and has a gap at the front. I would concider doing a bar on the top next time, though I'm happy with what I got.
Actually, maybe I'll look at just tapping the valve cover itself next time. It's thicker, clean, and already there. I wonder if it would leak?
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02-26-2008, 02:48 PM
#988
Or a partially threaded rod. Ooooooo.... I need a lathe. Then it would go in like a bolt, and you could put a wingnut on top.
But practically, my 10mm nut driver works great.
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02-26-2008, 03:07 PM
#989
Uh huh, that was Braineak's claim as well. I'm sure it's fine, too, since there IS a gap down there. But what I don't like about it is that (it seems? Correct me if I'm wrong) to get the coils off you have to pull the plate, since there's nothing to keep the flatheads from turning.
Anyway, for all the care I put into making it, I did it upside down so my plate sticks past the back of the engine and has a gap at the front. I would concider doing a bar on the top next time, though I'm happy with what I got.
Actually, maybe I'll look at just tapping the valve cover itself next time. It's thicker, clean, and already there. I wonder if it would leak?
Anyway, for all the care I put into making it, I did it upside down so my plate sticks past the back of the engine and has a gap at the front. I would concider doing a bar on the top next time, though I'm happy with what I got.
Actually, maybe I'll look at just tapping the valve cover itself next time. It's thicker, clean, and already there. I wonder if it would leak?
Slick idea, but I don't think id go that route. I prefer reversibility.
I don't have to pull the plate to get my cops off and my studs dont turn either. I used a nut to secure the bolt(stud) to the plate. Put some loctite on it too, its never going to turn.
http://x024.uploaderx.net/x/172_1203896833.jpg
Last edited by Saml01; 02-26-2008 at 03:19 PM.
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02-26-2008, 10:42 PM
#996
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
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It's thick, but not THAT thick. You'd be lucky to get two threads in. Still, I like the idea. The easiest thing to do would be to put a nut on the outside to lock it on, but if you have big nuts (pardon the pun) you could put a nut on the backside to hold it in.
Or a partially threaded rod. Ooooooo.... I need a lathe. Then it would go in like a bolt, and you could put a wingnut on top.
But practically, my 10mm nut driver works great.
Or a partially threaded rod. Ooooooo.... I need a lathe. Then it would go in like a bolt, and you could put a wingnut on top.
But practically, my 10mm nut driver works great.
Pics to follow soon.
Cheers
Nuno
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02-28-2008, 12:10 AM
#997
I bought a spare 96/97 engine harness to see what it would take to make a plug and play COPs setup from the square 4 pin connector. After removing the tape to separate it from the injector harness it looks like it'll work real well. The only minor thing is that it sources ground after the connector.
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