Saml01

iTrader: (9)

^ yea its a Megasquirt thing. Here my finished product.

Simple, and it works.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

You wouldn't be able to feel it unless you ran the dwell at 5ms at 7000rpm for 15 minutes and then 2.5ms@7000rpm for another 15 minutes. Tooling around town ~3500rpm doesn't count.

Does anyone have a square wave generator with pwm control so they can run those coils at "7000rpm" (30hz wasted/15hz sequential) for awhile and see if 5ms pulse actually makes it too hot? Then compair it to 2.5ms.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Anyone who has a MS can do it - at least in MS-II you can run the outputs however you want. Also good for flow testing injectors: Ask for 100 pulses of 3 ms each at 100 ms intervals or whatever. I ran my coils out of the engine at ~7000 rpm and it was impressive, just a constantly buzzing blue light.

Also, 30 hz * 60 sec/min = 1800 rpm.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

I did:
7000rpm /2(fourstroke) /2 (batch fire) = 1750min/60 = 29.1hz

EDIT - ok I goofed. It fires once per rev. so 7000/60 = 116hz or 58hz in sequential.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

So yeaaaa. Those who installed cops, did you have to change your cranking PW's or am I the only one?

Arkmage showed me his, he has a similar setup to mine and they are really really low compared to what I was using with the factory coil.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

Is your "start PW" measured in ms? If so set it to 2.5ms or whatever your dwell is.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

actually, if sam is indeed referring to ignition and not injection pw, you'd want your cranking dwell to be longer than your running dwell because voltage is much lower.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Injection PW, Im sorry. I should have been much clearer.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I've read through this thread from start to finish twice now. I've been down to my car and think I understand the wiring and what's involved. I think I know what to buy and where to buy it and what cars to look at in junkyards... but:

Can someone (LAZZER, BRAIN, SAM, BEN, etc...) who has been a major contributor to this thread please create a detailed "STICKY" with about 5 posts that takes people STEP-BY-STEP through this thing.

It should include part numbers for all the connectors, where to buy, a list of compatible OEM COP's, a detailed drawing of how EXACTLY to wire the thing up. Where to cut and exactly the lengths to cut everything. Real pics (w/appropriate markers labeled by MS Paint) would be awesome. Exactly what things to change in the various ECU's people will run with them... REALLY dumb it down in a clear and consolidated thread.

This thread is awesome, but it's going on 1100posts now and somebody could do an invaluable service to the community by composing an idiot-proof 1-stop shopping for the rest of us.

Yes, I know there has been a mild amount of pain and "why don't you sack up and do it yourself" and I understand that. But please, somebody have mercy on the Arts majors on the forum and make it easy for us. I mean really easy. I'd do it for you if I was the first to try something (my new seat doesn't count).

I'll be going to the junkyard this weekend to bag me some COP's, so if you could have the writeup done by then, that would be great. And I'm gonna need you to come in on Saturday to fix those TPS reports. OK, great.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Scott did that long ago. It's in the archives.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

^

Done

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12704

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I feel so dumb I'm not going to even edit my request above.

I searched and didn't find that thing. I did a title search for COP and read them all and I never found that thread....

AHA, upon further investigaion, I am vindicated. He actually spelled out "Coil on Plug" in the title of that thread. Well, that will teach him... make me show my *** and ask for help and it was there all the time... stupid Braineak...

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Is the diagram for the 1.6 correct? I know there has been some discussion that Lazzer's original drawing had the triggers wrong.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

This is what I think, based on 0 evidence
If you're going to cut the connector off the car's harness, then follow the diagram. If you're going to hollow out an ignitor and use that for the plug, then reverse the triggers.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I'm using an old ignitor. I'll use the factory wiring diagram to make sure I get it right.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I think you're dyslexic or something....i installed cops with both methods, same diagram. no issues.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I've done several of em, same result

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I hope im the only unlucky one here. To get my **** started just now I had to roll back all my cranking PW's - 3.5 @ 40 and 3.3 @ 60, cut down my ASE - starts at 40 works its way down by 5 and reduce its total time to 5 seconds, and increase my warmup.

Some weird **** is going on with these. They require less fuel to start the engine, then more to keep it running during warmup. But once its warm they are golden.

I am gonna try another cold start tomorrow night and let you guys know the results. Im still lost why something with a more powerful spark needs less fuel to get going, considering most of you, from what I understand, are swapping them in with no modifactions to anything fuel related.

Zaphod

Little update on my 1,6 NB COP conversion:

In post Nr. 712
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showpost.php?p=170441&postcount=712
in this thread I described my way of doing the harness and special harness connector on the 1,6 NB (special because I suppose the 1,8 hasn't got this connector) - and that I got no spark.

Well, after a while of lost confidence and I made a last try. I soldered a big ground wire to the harness ground wires, plugged all in - and it runs. (Maybe I should have listened to Ben who told me several times to try a good separate ground... )
Another possibility is - I just unplugged my EMB and had just the OEM ECU plugged in. Has anyone running the COP with EMB or (more important now for me) EMU? Is it possible, that the EMB or EMU is changing the trigger too much?

Just one more question according the mounting bracket for the coils. If I just plug the coils in - they sit flush with the cam cover. If I make a mounting plate (Braineack style) the coils will be sitting about 0.3 inch higher - do they still reach to the contact of the plugs?


It looks like it would be possible to turn Nr. 1 and 3 about 180 degrees and bolt Nr. 1 and 4 to the original cam cover bolts and make a small bracket for Nr. 2&3. Anyone tried this?


Thanks!
It's running!

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Did you have to do anything to your cranking pw's?