Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you're going to put a relay on a capacitor?

MD323

I believe hes trying to double fix it.


hes using the OEM coil +12v to trigger a relay bringing a larger +12v wire to his COP's AND adding a capacitor to it.

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

Actually, yes to the relay trigger and no, I'm not adding a capacitor.

My question to Zaphod was regarding this:
I don't understand what he means by "ground and +12v separated....", do you? And can you explain it to me? Is it because the '01+ NB have a form of COPS?

Zaphod

@ Barbycar - there is nothing you have to worry about.

Let me explain -

I got separate lines (ground and +12V) for cylinders 1+3 and for 2+4 (I am not really sure - it could also be 1+4 and 2+3)

My (Euro 1,6 NB) has an connector at the back of the valve cover, which gives my 2x ground, 2x +12V and the two trigger lines.
This seems to be some specialty of the 1,6 NB (which is not known in the US). The lines do come from the same source at the end.







I made my Cop conversion plug and play this way.

Now I have to put one cap in each of the lines.

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the clarification - now I can go test my setup with one less concern.

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

I'm going legit homies, like Hector in the NIRA circuit. No more cracking Jb weld! Now I need to redo my harness with this ***** *** capacitor nonsense.

Freaky Roadster

Absolutely brilliant thread.

I think this is worth doing even for nat/asp applications, along with sequential injection and a MS I reckon you might be able to save 5mpg. That's up to 50 extra miles per tank. Petrol in the UK is about $2.16 per litre or $8.16 per US Gallon.

OK, where's the 70 page thread on injection.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Freaky Roadster;704733]Absolutely brilliant thread.

I think this is worth doing even for nat/asp applications, along with sequential injection and a MS I reckon you might be able to save 5mpg.QUOTE]

I'll believe it when I see it. aka, not a chance.

It's a fun project to do though.

Freaky Roadster

Oh well, maybe not 5mpg then
Even 3mpg would be a 10% saving for me. and might convince the Mrs on the outlay

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I've read 33 pages in, there's quite a bit of information here. Glad to see brain posted a howto, it would be a nightmare to sift through all this and retain everything

Question I have though; Do I need a capacitor for this setup, or is it strictly an optional thing? I can't find the mention of it in the thread so far.. I assume also that I can just splice into the harness before the connector if I don't want to peel off my ignitor connector?

Edit- Edited for clarity, and because I read deeper into the thread.

Freaky Roadster

Well, I've had a poke under the hood and it looks like mine is the "newer" 1.8, the difference is that the TACH signal comes from the CAS and not the coils so only 3 wires to each COP. That's GND, +12v, Triggers.

poobs

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I got my COPs ready to go back on the motor.

I had a hold down consisting of a single aluminum rod going along the top of all the coils. The rod itself was held at the ends by small brackets secured by the end/center valve cover screws.
My son lost the pieces to the above so now I can make the same or something else...

Have you guys tried like 4 shallow countersunk holes on the aluminum with the head of 4 screws JB welded into it. It would serve as studs for the coils ( ? )

OR am I better off with the old aluminum plate on the valley of the valve cover with 4 holes ? I don't think I can easily source the aluminum plate and then the correct size hole saw.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

^ Several through this thread have JB welded studs to the head, I don't suggest cutting too deep into it, and definitely not with it on the car, it's got some material but not enough to really anchor to.

poobs

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the heads up.

My hold down system was stupid in its elegance or something like that. Mainly, the aluminum rod flexed a bit so while the end coils were held down tightly, the ones in the middle were a little loose.
I think a .250 carbon fibre rod that I have will work....

If I do try the JB weld thing I'll shoot for screws with very broad flat heads and shallow indentations on the valve cover.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Does it matter much what the size of the cap is, as long as it's 10k uf? I'm having trouble sourcing a capacitor for this application, and I have everything else I need. How much of a benefit am I looking at here?

Edit; I found these on Amazon, they look like they might work for this..

poobs

iTrader: (1)

They are only rated for 16 V. I would get something like 35V

You don't need a single 10'000 uf capacitor. You can get two 4700uf and connect them in paralell ...meaning the two caps go together postive to positive and negative to negative and they become electically like a larger capacitot.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

^ Debatable whether a 35v cap is really worth it. Regardless I'll pull the harness off my old pack and wire it up for use with the new COPs. I'm stoked, just need some wiring and solder clips and I'm good

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

I did my test install today and it fired up first time - Yay.

A question to the electronics gurus - I built a dwell reducer (running stock ECU on my 2000) using Jason's circuit design http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...7&postcount=41 but I translated it onto strip circuit card. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stripboard. Since the car started and ran just fine, can I assume that the circuit is working and therefore dwell reduction is occurring?

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Touch the coils after 20 minutes of high-rpm driving and find out

Freaky Roadster

Spit on fingers first and wait for the sizzle.

Or not and wait for the sizzle anyway.