Zaphod

Could someone explain the red line in the composite log please.

FatKao

Errors. It usually pops up on the tooth AFTER the actual problem.

Zaphod

Here are some pics after I removed all the stuff:



Looks like my exhaust cam splipped one tooth - correct?

Here are some pics after I removed all the stuff:



But what bothers me is - why is my crank pin not at 12' o clock and why did someone (my previous shop that did put in my built engine) make a mark at that point (which aligns with the cam marks (at least with the intake cam at the moment... )
See pic:

Here are some pics after I removed all the stuff:



Edit:

More weirdness...
When I align my crank with the pin up like this


I am at TDC for cylinder one... (I checked with a very scientific method...)



With the Crank aligned like this the cams are standing this way:


What the f...?

Was my check correct, do I have a brainbug, what is going on...?

Please help me out here...

Zaphod

Nobody?

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Looks like the intake cam gear is off 1 tooth, which is what you are seeing on the composite log. I can't even tell what is wrong with the exhaust cam.

FatKao

Your timing is totally hosed. Whoever put the belt on set the cams when the crank was at BDC not TDC it seems.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Pull the belt off, check to see that the pins are in the proper place in the cam gears, and redo the whole thing.

Zaphod

How would the engine run in that configuration?

I am going to do the whole timing again after I have seen that somewhat geeky but quiet helpful videos...

Zaphod

I turned my crank today some more times to see if I can find a spot where the marks all agree... but they where really totally off. As to bee seen in the first picture above it looks like the 1st cylinder was at ~BDC when the cams were at the marks.

How could an engine run this way for 2 years...? Most of all - my signals must have been so that the DIYPNP and the MS3 were able to ignite and inject?
Would this even be possible?

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

It won't have run in that configuration, the belt has just jumped that's all.

Zaphod

Sooo much... o.k. then - lets get on.
Assembly as soon as I got my water neck blocking plate and timing belt / tensioners.

Zaphod

Got the belts and tensioners today...



The freeze plug is installed:

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

A lot of members, me included, put a plate over the freeze-out plug as insurance that it stays in position. A small weeping leak can be detected and overcome, a sudden empty system is another thing.

Zaphod

I should be getting that plate this afternoon - thank god I got a friend that can machine these things for me...

Zaphod

So I finally found the main problem that caused all that fuss... me...

Maybe I shoudl be renamed into Faezaphod or something like that...

When I tried to remove my front waterneck this winter I removed the upper cambelt cover in a very Fae-like way... (though I didn't use a sawzall, but a huge screwdriver..) I removed the cover, did see that there is much more to the waterneck removal - and reattached the cover. But a piece of the cover broke and got ripped of by the cambelt and mangled between cambelt and the crank cambelt pulley... - I suppose that was the point where my cambelt jumped over quite a large bit...

So on to the fix:
That is my third hand I used when setting the cams and attaching the cambelt..


Thats how it looks now - have to reassemble the rest today.



Greets

Zaphod

Just wanted to let you know that the car is up and running again.

At first I overtightend the belt - but the second attempt was good.

P.S.: I had the timing light to reference the timing and I have seen that there is no difference between the DIYPNP and the MS3 in timing for the 99-00.