ARTech

iTrader: (34)

Another competitor

JK

Yeah, that SS really likes to shrink. How much heat/amps did you end up using?

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

Had 130 atmy fingers. Depending on if the joint was beveled or had root opening I would start off full throttle for a few seconds then back down to 90 after I notice penetration.

ARTech

iTrader: (34)

That's about what I use single pass with no gap, just a deep bevel. So there's full penetration? Do you have pics of the inside from the head flange side?

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

A couple of more pictures. Since the diff is toast and the car is going to be sitting a bit pending a new diff, I figured i'd tear it apart again and start working on the downpipe. Since i'm doing a 3" bellmouth, i'm waiting on my flange and oval to 3" transition from ATP. I'll have a v-band on the outlet for ease of removal in the future.

Here is how it sits right now. I dont have the hardware to attach the turbo to the manifold yet. Not sure what i'm doing since there isnt' enough room to through-bolt it. Guess i'll just do 10mm studs like on the old BEGi manifold. What bit should I drill the holes out with for that?






Keep in mind its also not clocked yet. I still haven't figure out what i'm doing with the mixing manifold and lower radiator hose, either. Was contemplating doing what neogenesis did with his setup.

Jeff_Ciesielski

iTrader: (10)

If you want, I have the correct drill/tap/extra helicoils for the 10mm studs. You are welcome to use them.

Looks awesome btw. Should be fun once you get that diff fixed

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I sent you thse 3/8-24 12 point arp nuts and some washers. Oh well.

I have used those ATP 3" oval to round transitions before...they do not arrive as described. Neither side will be "flat". But still easier than hammering a pipe oval over that sort a distance.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Oh, well I can just as easily tap it for a 3/8-24 stud setup. I still wish I could use through bolts. Unless I ovaled the holes out to be able to tilt the bolts to get them through it just wont work :( Not enough clearance between the collector and the flange.

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

Dang that turbo looks small in there, maybe its just the pics?

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

T25s are pretty small turbos. Compared to your tractor turbo its tiny, yes.

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

Are you still having issues with the flange sitting flat? Looks pretty sweet i think.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Ya it still teeters when its sitting flat but i'm going to try it and see if it leaks or not. I wish I knew someone with a sanding table, that would fix it pretty well.

I think the turbine flange needs resurfacing as well. At this point I'm just trying to get it together and get the downpipe done and running again.

rrjwilson

I realise the Greddy manifold always had problems and these were solved by stress cuts. But why does this manifold have cuts (for the Greddy reason?) around the bolt holes? Surely it was the tubing expansion that you want to correct so strong bolt holes help?
I notice TurboTim doing this too can someone please give me clue :(

BTW I think you've done a bang up job there well done.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Not sure what the deal is with the cuts to be honest. The flange comes that way from Weirtech.

My round to oval transition and flange came in today along with tim's fancy nuts.





Downpipe build starts tomorrow morning.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Only one of my manifolds has these cuts on the head flange and that is because I got that flange from weirtech and he put them there at some point.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

That transition and flange look like the cat's meow. Is it going to take much massaging to get the transition to drop in?

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Yes, very cool and yes, took some massaging. Massaged the oval narrower with the vice to fit the flange bevel, then massaged the round end to fit into the Vband flange i'm using.

I actually dont like the way its fitting with this particular v band flange. At first I thought it'd make more sense to use the heavier duty flange on the turbine exit, but now i'm thinking i'm going to change it to a lower profile flange I got from Abe (artech). The inner diameter on the smaller diameter one will allow me to slip the transition inside (giggity) it and leave me about an inch or more space for the first bend of the downpipe.

I have pics but Photobucket is down at the moment, will post them up as soon as I can.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Pics of the assembly tacked together. The flange also doesn't fit the turbine housing unless I bore out one of the holes larger. I noticed this same thing was done on the BEGI downpipe flange so I dont feel horrible about it.

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

Looks good bro

curly

iTrader: (25)

Keystone light? Man it must suck being jobless. Why two nuts?

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

I know. I've got an affinity for cheap beer and now that I cant afford good stuff i'm forced to drink cheap stuff exclusively. 3 nights ago you would have seen a Mickey's grenade sitting there =P

Btw i'm not jobless anymore. Welcome to Costco, I love you.

And what about 2 nuts?