DNA54

Noticed I've never open a topic of my car...
short story here:

December 2013
miata is too slow, even if it's 1.8l
200.000+ km engine
saw mcm "how to turbo", they make it very easy
let's find out!

what I thought:
I want quick spool and low threshold, let's take an .35 turbine with .33 compressor!
why don't leave oem exhaust? it's turbo, exhaust line is less important than a NA engine!
wanna stay under 10psi, the i/c is only a good upgrade, but not necessary
dunno what a flow chart is

result:























first run... 1.5 bar wastegate and no emb, just oem ecu


ended......













one week later goes BOOOOOM
cylinder n°2 was prone to detonation











After that I began to read, I found the faq, I bought the corki bell's "maximum boost" and when my ideas began to be a little bit clearer (3 months later) I admitted that all that work was crap. Really crap.


Now the true diy project

I started my new project on april 2014

my new goals:
high boost threshold due to 10:1 CR
reason: reduce egt when non in boost, expecially because I ran LPG, less torque in boost but good power.
low boost, around 8 psi
compressor: high efficiency at high revs (4500 rpm and more)
I chose a chrubo based on GT2860R
manifold: studied for high speed gases, begi S4 shoud work for me.
expected power around 200-250 bhp


...continue

DNA54

I found another BP with 80.000 km
changed timing belt and...
engine back in!



there isn't too much space for the downpipe



here neither





my new version of oil feed: copper hard line







chaos...



creating the downpipe: 60mm stainless steel













secondary water temp sensor







EGT k sensor





1° stainless reinforcement for chinese manifold



I/C piping





half way







toyota cops + dwell reducer (my pnp version)











cheers!



almost finished







finished!!!





First two days I setted the pressure to 4 psi: Funny to drive, but nothing else.
On the third day I setted the pressure to 9 psi (almost my goal) and the car was perfect!! As I wanted
2 problems:
first - oem injectors (cleaned and rebuilded) 100% opened to reach 12.5:1 afr at 5.500 rpm and 13.6:1 on the redline.
Back to 7 psi: 11:1 on maximum boost all the way till the redline. All you can pretend with oem injection system.
second - let me use an onomatopoeism for better understanding of the problem:

bruuuuAAAAAAA chochochochocho
bruuAAAAAAAAA chochochochocho
bruAAAAAAAAAA chocho SHHHHHHHHHHHHH
brubbrubbrubb potpotpot
sputter sputter sputter



I think I need a sequential bov...

Btw







I know it can be done better, but it's my first job, be patient...

Now boost threshold is 2.600 rpm, but I can reach 7 psi at 3.500 rpm
don't have spool data, I will write here soon.

...continue...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

well that went pretty much as expected

thanks for taking pics though, that was entertaining

You're gonna want to support that feed line before it breaks and causes a fire

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

I would also take off the wrap on the manifold. It will trap more heat inside. The manifold is already prone to failure, may as well not expedite that.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

bruuuuAAAAAAA chochochochocho
bruuAAAAAAAAA chochochochocho
bruAAAAAAAAAA chocho SHHHHHHHHHHHHH
brubbrubbrubb potpotpot
sputter sputter sputter

This ^ lol

Cool build either way. Once I saw that mcm episode I was waiting for more builds to pop up.

Your 2nd time was very entertaining. Nice DIY setup, trial & error PSSHHHHHH 0psi

DNA54

yeah, I already made two rigid supports for the feed line and a second support for the turbine housing

Erat

iTrader: (5)

The first attempt was the exact result i expected after people want to turbo a miata after the MCM episode.

DNA54

The only difference I've noticed was cruise egt temp rised up from 400-450°C to 550°C
on maximum boost I've seen no changes: 650°C (very low afr)
are this manifold so crap?

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Nope. Not crap. Top quality. Obviously, that's why it is so super cheap.

Wait a minute....

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

What are you using ECU wise?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

he's using aidz

DNA54

removed




what do you mean?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

What are you using to control fuel and spark?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

He's asking what standalone ECU you're using to control the car to go along with the turbo setup you've pieced together so you don't immediately blow your motor again.

DNA54

now I'm using the emanage blue (very low afr, -10° at maximum boost)
since I don't have a det-can the advance must be conservative, right?
I'm building one: when it's finished I put some photos here, and maybe a video if my gopro wants to record

very clear

I'm thinking to put an ms2 pnp from diyautotune, but I'm a little bit scared: I have to remap the entire range of the engine: vacuum, boost, idle, cold start, hot start, advance vs water temp, advance vs knock sensor and many other maps
I know that autotune helps a lot, but dunno if I can

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

I'll bet you I have put less time into tuning my MS3 than you have put into swapping out blown engines due to your lack of engine management.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you realize they come with basemaps right?

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I've read though this thread a few times and I've almost posted every time. I have a love hate with it. He is doing some pretty impressive work with some pretty shitty parts. I'm not gonna lie. I want to see it go through its entire life cycle out of curiosity. We need weekly inspections with comments on miles driven & what not.

Having a proper ecu is pretty much mandatory with Turbo. It makes everything sooo much easier. Especially when your bandiads start failing and you have to troubleshoot that crap.

Also when I saw the DIY manifold I was like right on. Then you went rogue on us and ebayed it. That original manifold you made was probably fine just needed to be cleaned up a bit.

Sparetire

OP, you are moving along a steep learning curve pretty well IMHO.

The funny thing is that a proper standalone ECU solution is often less difficult to work with than 'bandaid' or 'aids' solutions that simply fool the stock ECU.

My last project was far more difficult and frustrating with an SAFC based management setup than it was a programmable ECU that was very similar to the MS stuff. Plus that would let you get rid of the AFM, which is not doing you any favors.

Glad to see that you are now opening up the exhaust, as it is actually far more important for a turbocharged vehicles overall performance than most NA applications.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I wish the op just stuck with the log manifold, its better than the ebay one. But based on the discoloration I bet it just needs a quick shave at the machine shop to make it flat again.