Project84

iTrader: (2)

So I bought my car w/ the AEM WBo2 already installed in the homemade standard exhaust tubing downpipe. A friend informed me it's placed up too close to the exhaust outlet on the turbo, and that it needed to be about 18" down.

Mine is about 6" downstream of the v-band clamp, there is no "elbow" associated w/ this downpipe. Should I remove it, weld that bung shut, and move it further down?

While I'm in here bothering you with this silly question, I may as well ask another.

What is the best clocked position for the turbo setups on these cars? I've seen them w/ the intake side pointing in all directions, does it really matter, of should I just do my best at avoiding 90* bends on the intake side? The homo I bought the car from has it pointing at the driver's fender and fabbed more exhaust tubing for IC piping and has it doing a 90* bend to avoid the headlight motor (which it still rests up against) before doing another 90* turn down to the intercooler.

Thanks!

Project84

iTrader: (2)

seriously? 30 views and no one can type 5 words to help a cracker out?


WBo2, where does it go. 6" from turbo, 12", 18", doesn't matter?

Clocked turbo. point it up, point it down, it doesn't matter.

Please respond w/ input.

ctxspy

iTrader: (3)

i dont know what i'm talking about, but from what i've read a WBo2 sensor is likely to get fried when that close to the turbo.. 36 inches away seems like a common answer.

arga

Max temp for a WB is 900 degrees. EGT's can be 1300F right out of the turbo. Mine is mounted at least 18 inches down. Some people still run a heat sink on their WB mounted down that far.

dynokiller90

ok cracka. most people mount them before the cat/test pipe. where it is now is to close and you are likely to burn it up. make sure that it gets mounted in such a position to not get fouled by condensation in the pipe.

you will see many different ways that the compressor housing is clocked in these cars for many different reasons. some people just don't know how to clock them. others have to route their charge pipes around different things like a/c compressors and power steering pumps. it also depends on where the nd tanks on the intercoller are. there realy is no best way, just the best waty for your particular setup.

Project84

iTrader: (2)

Like under the car at the SIDE of the pipe, rather than the bottom or top?

Looks like my DP has to come off now. shucks.

Thanks for the input fellas.

Is it suggested to avoid 90* bends in your intercooler piping?

dynokiller90

top is best. if the pipe is horizontal then it should be placed anywhere from the 10:00 to 2:00 position.

no need to weld up the old bung. usualy when you buy a bung it comes with a plug too. the 90* bends on the pressure side of things are not likely to cause to much loss of power as long as they are mandrel beds. you'll still be way ahead of stock anyway right?

Project84

iTrader: (2)

So I got the DP off today and will be welding the bungs shut (I don't have any plugs) Monday. Should I leave the factory o2 up that close to the turbo, or move that down further as well? I have (2) o2 sensors, one is currently under the car about halfway back (where the cat would've been) the other was in the DP about 8" from the turbo.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

factory o2 should be fine as oems mount them very close to the turbo, they're not as sensitive as widebands. The best/most logical placement for your wideband sensor seems would be vertically on top of the downpipe right before the cat with the wires going through the shifter hole.

clocking your turbo has no direct performance measures, it's mainly for cleanliness and ease of pipe routing for your setup. All setups will be different mainly due to turbo placement and existence of power steering and/or air conditioning.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

Sensor Placement
A weld-in M18 X 1.5 boss is supplied for sensor installation. Mount the O2 in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port as the extreme temperatures of the exhaust can harm the sensor. The sensors internal heater will warm the sensor to the optimum operating temperature. If available, the factory O2 sensor location is usually preferable. On turbocharged engines the UEGO sensor must be installed after the turbo charger, if not, the pressure differential will greatly effect the accuracy of the unit. In applications with a catalytic converter, the UEGO sensor must be mounted BEFORE the converter. In applications with an auxiliary air pump, the UEGO sensor must be mounted BEFORE the pump input to the exhaust stream. Installation angle should be inclined at least 10° towards horizontal (electrical connection upwards, see diagram) which prevents the collection of liquids between sensor housing and sensor element during the cold start phase.
Minimum mounting angle for the UEGO Sensor

http://www.aempower.com/images/produ...Controller.pdf

ARTech

iTrader: (34)

I think you missed arga's post. You didn't have to take the dp off, a heatsink like this allow you to keep the current sensor location if you have a little clearance behind it.

Project84

iTrader: (2)

I read the post but wasn't sure what kind of heat sink he was talking about. I've used heat sinks before for welding aluminum and basically I just clamped a section of copper to the work I was welding. So I was thinking that type of heat sink. (remember... NOOB!)

How does one like above work? Is it basically just an extender? Will it hinder the ability of the WB to read clearly?

Orion ZyGarian

Pretty much says everything we need to know on WBO2 placement. Those are the instructions that come with the UEGO kit.

IMO the further down the exhaust stream (within reason) you can put the sensor, the better. Putting it at the rear right before the muffler isnt a good idea because there are plenty of places for exhaust leaks, and I'm sure a length of wire too long could mess with the reading itself as well.

So much for just throwing the O2 sensor anywhere in the exhaust. There's plenty of guidelines you're supposed to follow to get the best reading for the longest time.

On top of that, the sensor will still foul over time and need replacement; quicker if theres lead, oil, or excess fuel in the system.

Project84

iTrader: (2)

How does one like above work? Is it basically just an extender? Will it hinder the ability of the WB to read clearly?

If I don't have to scrap my current DP, I'd rather just make it work.

ARTech

iTrader: (34)

yeah it's just an extender that lowers the amount of hear the sensor is exposed to. You will need a few thin washers to clock the extender so the hole points towards the oncoming exhuast stream, but other than that I haven't heard of issues. You actually want the sensor as close head as possible for the most accurate readings but, unfortunately, the sensor can't handle it. if you place the sensor at the muffler your readings will be off a few rpm as the mixture makes its way out the exhaust.