Starting my turbo project. Please Help!
09-04-2006, 08:28 PM
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Starting my turbo project. Please Help!
Hi folks, I have been reading threads here for a while as my turbo plans progressed from ideas parts in boxes. I think its time to introduce myself and ask my questions.
OK, this is what I have so far.
One 94 miata with totaly stock engine.
One remanufactured journal bearing t25 turbo from a FWD nissan sr20det.
Compressor: 54.36mm exducer, 60 trim, .80A/R housing.
Turbine: 53.0mm inducer, 62 trim, .64 A/R housing.
One used JR AFPR/FMU, I don't know the rate of rise but plan to test it.
One new BEGi new style exhaust manifold, and one new BEGi series Z mild steel downpipe without the sparate wastegate path.
One used emanage blue from mohdparts, tested and updated with the latest firmware by them, complete with main and ignition harnesses and injector wires.
One nokia dku cable on order, my old (win 95) laptop has a usb port, but I don't know what drivers I might need, Im sure I have a normal USB cable lying around someplace.
One used Subaru WRX stock intercooler, size is just right, and dirt cheep, but plumbing will be a pita.
Cheep ebay foam air filter, I oiled it.
OK, now for the hard part, what I still need.
Coolant lines should be fairly easy I like those bajo fittings designed for "pushlock" hose that atp has.
I keep wondering if I can just push a barbed adapter into the other end of the pushlock hose, or if I need to do pushlock to npt then npt to barb to get to my normal coolant hose?
Fuel lines are the stock springy hose clamps up to the task with the FMU or do I need real ones? Some of those clamps are real hard to get at.
To clock the turbo, I have the big *** snap ring plyers, but I still have to do something with the wastegate actuator. I think I can just drill and tap the outer ring of the innside edge of the turbo's intake housing to mount it in any orientation I want. Correct?
Oil suply line. I have a block to AN fitting from BEGi, but I still need the line, anyone know how long to have it made and what angle fittings work well? Does my turbo need an oil flow restrictor?
MAP sensor. Do I need one? doesn't the MAF provide a good load signal? Is it needed if I go for the autotune?
Speeking of the MAF, I still don't understand the emanage manual, do I need to use a resistor or not?
To take my LC-1 out of the MR2 and put it in the miata along with a display and a boost gauge.
Oil return. Easy.
Thats all I can think of right now, I will try to post some pictures of parts tomorrow. What do you think?
OK, this is what I have so far.
One 94 miata with totaly stock engine.
One remanufactured journal bearing t25 turbo from a FWD nissan sr20det.
Compressor: 54.36mm exducer, 60 trim, .80A/R housing.
Turbine: 53.0mm inducer, 62 trim, .64 A/R housing.
One used JR AFPR/FMU, I don't know the rate of rise but plan to test it.
One new BEGi new style exhaust manifold, and one new BEGi series Z mild steel downpipe without the sparate wastegate path.
One used emanage blue from mohdparts, tested and updated with the latest firmware by them, complete with main and ignition harnesses and injector wires.
One nokia dku cable on order, my old (win 95) laptop has a usb port, but I don't know what drivers I might need, Im sure I have a normal USB cable lying around someplace.
One used Subaru WRX stock intercooler, size is just right, and dirt cheep, but plumbing will be a pita.
Cheep ebay foam air filter, I oiled it.
OK, now for the hard part, what I still need.
Coolant lines should be fairly easy I like those bajo fittings designed for "pushlock" hose that atp has.
I keep wondering if I can just push a barbed adapter into the other end of the pushlock hose, or if I need to do pushlock to npt then npt to barb to get to my normal coolant hose?
Fuel lines are the stock springy hose clamps up to the task with the FMU or do I need real ones? Some of those clamps are real hard to get at.
To clock the turbo, I have the big *** snap ring plyers, but I still have to do something with the wastegate actuator. I think I can just drill and tap the outer ring of the innside edge of the turbo's intake housing to mount it in any orientation I want. Correct?
Oil suply line. I have a block to AN fitting from BEGi, but I still need the line, anyone know how long to have it made and what angle fittings work well? Does my turbo need an oil flow restrictor?
MAP sensor. Do I need one? doesn't the MAF provide a good load signal? Is it needed if I go for the autotune?
Speeking of the MAF, I still don't understand the emanage manual, do I need to use a resistor or not?
To take my LC-1 out of the MR2 and put it in the miata along with a display and a boost gauge.
Oil return. Easy.
Thats all I can think of right now, I will try to post some pictures of parts tomorrow. What do you think?
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09-04-2006, 09:05 PM
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One used Subaru WRX stock intercooler
Cheep ebay foam air filter, I oiled it.
To clock the turbo, I have the big *** snap ring plyers, but I still have to do something with the wastegate actuator. I think I can just drill and tap the outer ring of the innside edge of the turbo's intake housing to mount it in any orientation I want. Correct?
To take my LC-1 out of the MR2 and put it in the miata along with a display and a boost gauge.
Cheep ebay foam air filter, I oiled it.
To clock the turbo, I have the big *** snap ring plyers, but I still have to do something with the wastegate actuator. I think I can just drill and tap the outer ring of the innside edge of the turbo's intake housing to mount it in any orientation I want. Correct?
To take my LC-1 out of the MR2 and put it in the miata along with a display and a boost gauge.
Sounds like a fine start there. I'll try to help where I can. First, heard nothing but horror from the foam filters eventuallly breaking up and getting sucked into the turbo. This applies to the "GReddy" filter. The "ebay" one could be different (?)
Check "braineack" for his solution. Basically a bracket which allows different actuator placement. Having said this, I think the drill-n-tap method would work just fine, and it's what I'll probably try myself. (depending on your success
) Here are some good pics to see what i'm talking about.https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4371
LC-1 and boost gauge, good.
Last edited by UofACATS; 09-04-2006 at 09:16 PM.
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09-05-2006, 10:24 PM
#3
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Thanks U of A, The filter I have has a mesh screen on the inside, so I am not too concerned. I have to get some pictures of my turbo, but the t25 is a little different from braineack's t3.
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09-06-2006, 08:52 AM
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Your wiring for the '94 to EM should be the same as mine... hit the EM forum and there was a PDF I posted with pretty little pictures ....
No resister required.... (supposedly only required on NB/M2's)....
Thread on DKU... I think had the drivers, if not let me know, and I'll find them to post them into the thread.... Definately follow Falk's procedure though, about putting the cable in the laptop, and check which wires are the TX or RX by using hyperterminal.... to be quite honest, I which I had thought of that.... if I was to ever take my cable apart, I'd definately do that one....
Get a GM Map sensor.... it's much easier to use the maps based on map voltages.... you aren't trying to worry about the total air-flow through the MAF (or AFM).... You can also get one of the cheaper 2.5v ones, but you just need to order it from somewhere... Jefe and a few of the other guys are using that one.... I've got the 2-bar... and tuning with it was sooooo much simpler.... Oh and of course, if you really wanted to, you could get one out of a wrecker... (just remember go for a factory boosted GM)....
Dave,
No resister required.... (supposedly only required on NB/M2's)....
Thread on DKU... I think had the drivers, if not let me know, and I'll find them to post them into the thread.... Definately follow Falk's procedure though, about putting the cable in the laptop, and check which wires are the TX or RX by using hyperterminal.... to be quite honest, I which I had thought of that.... if I was to ever take my cable apart, I'd definately do that one....
Get a GM Map sensor.... it's much easier to use the maps based on map voltages.... you aren't trying to worry about the total air-flow through the MAF (or AFM).... You can also get one of the cheaper 2.5v ones, but you just need to order it from somewhere... Jefe and a few of the other guys are using that one.... I've got the 2-bar... and tuning with it was sooooo much simpler.... Oh and of course, if you really wanted to, you could get one out of a wrecker... (just remember go for a factory boosted GM)....
Dave,
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