DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

EFR 6258 vs 6758

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Old 11-11-2014, 11:47 PM
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If E85 is available, that's likely your best bet for safely increasing boost and timing for more power. This would require an upgraded e85 compatible pump, 750-1000cc injectors and obviously some tuning (you may have some of these items already).

This turbo will flow a max of 44lbs/hr which is roughly 440hp. As others have stated, nearing 400hp (and sometimes less than that) the drivetrain is on borrowed time even with a 6-speed and a torsen.

I have to ask, if its a rocket already and your are happy with it, why not just drive it for a while?
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBandit

I have to ask, if its a rocket already and your are happy with it, why not just drive it for a while?
Because the only thing better than enough cocaine is more cocaine.
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
2" ic piping, if I'm not mistaken, should max out near 400hp at full tilt assuming no sudden bends or anything
You know what. I think maybe everyone else did all this math for non compressed flow. A car turbo pushing 300cfm at 30 psi (should be closer to 450hp) through 5 feet of 2" ic piping with 4 90° bends is only losing loosing ~0.14 psi to pumping loss. A normal 12psi @ 170cfm 250hp setup is loosing like 0.08psi in the piping. I estimated each 90° bend at r=2d to be equal to an additional foot of pipe for my rough math. Looking at the numbers thats nothing I'd worry about, its still typically being eclipsed by the IC at that point. The fact that my math draws the conclusion that everyone over looked a basic condition kind of makes me want to do it over tomorrow.
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:46 AM
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Since when did The Forum Collective decide that Torsens and MSM diffs are questionable at 400whp? Are there a bunch of broken diffs that I haven't seen?

IMO, the diff is bombproof. Axles too, as long as it's a street car that doesn't get launched. Tranny needs to go at 400whp, though.
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:50 AM
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He's got a street car, but has been talking about taking it to the track on sticky tires
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Old 11-12-2014, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Since when did The Forum Collective decide that Torsens and MSM diffs are questionable at 400whp? Are there a bunch of broken diffs that I haven't seen?

IMO, the diff is bombproof. Axles too, as long as it's a street car that doesn't get launched. Tranny needs to go at 400whp, though.
I've regularly seen Torsens break on ~400whp/350rwtq street cars, after a single street (ie medium to low grip surface) launch.
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Old 11-12-2014, 01:43 AM
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My Torsen blew up at the dragstrip, but it took a prepared (sticky) surface and wheel hop to get there. Before that, it survived countless launches at autocrosses, etc. As long as the wheels can spin, it acts as a fuse for driveline components (except for the transmission which, as Sav points out, has a finite torque capacity).
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:39 AM
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It's a Torsen but not stock. Cryo treated with upgraded hardware inside. It also has a solid sleeve compared to stock.
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:38 AM
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I wouldn't worry about the rear end at all.

Sticky drag radials would actually help it survive.

Trans is going to be the pucker factor.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Sticky drag radials would actually help it survive.
Until you dead hook.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BoostedSmurf
Until you dead hook.

That's a good thing. Sidewall flex is safe.

Wheel hop on street tires is bad.

Rubber band vs. jackhammer.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:11 AM
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A bias-ply slick will wrinkle and give that extra cushion you want but a drag radial wont have that cushion or at least as much. Dead hook on a radial breaks parts.

I totally get where you're coming from with wheel hop, street tires at the drag strip are the worst lol
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:13 AM
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You really think a dead hook on a radial is going to be harder on your rear end than a hippity-hip-hip-hop street tire? Come on now.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
You really think a dead hook on a radial is going to be harder on your rear end than a hippity-hip-hip-hop street tire? Come on now.
Oh not at all. Wheel hop is the devil. Drag radial is a step up from a street tire for sure. I'm just saying the radial wont give that cushion and that initial shock will still break things. Slicks and skinnies are where its at though.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:19 AM
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Drag radial will not dead hook most the time. It will hop, and because it is stickier than most others it will cause way more damage than some dinky all season which will spin like crazy.

A wrinkle wall slick will load up and dead hook, which is what he was getting at.

*edit: +1 what smurf is saying
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazdaspeeder
How much more boost can I run with 93 octane and ~8.6-8.8 compression?
+1 to running ALLOFIT

IMO, I'd max out fuel/boost/timing with 93oct on the 62 (or 67 )

Wouldn't bother with E85 on those pistons.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Girz0r
Wouldn't bother with E85 on those pistons.
huh?
why not?

Its not like you NEED high comp for e85.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
huh?
why not?

Its not like you NEED high comp for e85.
Well yea.. not saying 'not possible'. Just sounds like OP has more wiggle room with 93oct currently. E85 fuel WOULD be the next thing on the list after 93oct limits are met.
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:39 AM
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yeah.... good luck getting to MBT on 93oct and >20psi, no matter what your compression ratio is.

I'm fairly certain my 400whp, 93oct, 25psi(?) tune was detonating and I think it was single-digit timing in boost.

For "ultimate glory" I'd do:
- EFR 7163
- E85
- boost by gear
- traction control
- dual-port wastegate and 4 port EBC solenoid so you can run lower psi in first few gears
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:40 AM
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What tranny? A T10 looks better and better by the minute.
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