6strngs

iTrader: (2)

So, I was at the track last night in my drift miata and have been trying everything I can think of to get it to stop understeering, it wasn't until my last few runs of the night that I actually started doing well and I realized that the reason why I was doing better was because the tires were getting bald. It seems everytime I put tires with any amount of tread on the rear I just understeer because the little 1.6 just doesn't have the torque to keep them spinning. So, since the season just started I'd like to put together a budget turbo-kit to get me started that I can build off of as money comes in. My plan right now:

ebay cast manifold + downpipe $210
ebay external wastegate $60
ebay t3 flanged turbo $220
FMU ~$100
Braided AN oil/coolant lines ~$150

A friend of mine is going to let me borrow a fmic and some universal piping until I can afford to buy my own. I'm getting an external wastegate only because that is what that downpipe uses and I've been unable to find any other downpipes suited for that manifold. The cost of the manifold/dp/wastegate is still less than just the cost of a manifold from begi/fm though.

So here's where I need some help, can someone recommend a t3 flanged turbo that will give me the fastest possible spool while still being ~200whp capable on a 1.6. I tried searching and the only thing I could see was a recommendation for a t3 super 60 but I don't know what trim or A/R or any of those specs really mean, so I don't know what would be best suited for my goals. The other thing I need some help with is the FMU, I want to go this route simply because of cost, I don't want to drop big $$ for a nice one from begi when it's only going to be scrapped in favor of a megasquirt within a few months when I can afford one, just need something that will work with stock pump/injectors and I don't know what ratio to get, I only plan on running 4-5 PSI until I can get bigger injectors and a MS in there. I read that the vortech fmu that comes with the greddy kit is 12:1 so would that be best?

I've legitimately spent the last few hours searching these forums for these questions, the problem is everytime I find a relevant thread it just ends in someone telling the OP to do their own research...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

18psi

iTrader: (76)

18psi

iTrader: (76)

By the way as soon as the quality control inspection is done to this thread, the mighty ban hammer will make its appearance.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

although around here we often use the BAN-FIST

curly

iTrader: (25)

I have some 1.8 injectors and a begi FMU for sale if your like them.

I'd rebuild an sr20. That'll meet your 200hp goal at 12 psi. That's what I have with 10psi by 2800rpms

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

PM'd. I just wish that I could find a cast manifold that was t25 flanged for the sr20 turbo for under $300.

This is a real post btw. I guess after re-reading it I could see how it could be interpreted as trolling lol. FWIW, I'm drifting at the track at organized events, not the street. Also, I'm not terribly concerned about blowing the engine since it would give me a great reason to 1.8 swap it, lol.

curly

iTrader: (25)

FM's log manifold is only $400, and their DIY kit is $750 for a dp and manifold. I think Abe's log was somewhere around $350 for me.
Save the money from the external wastegate and use an internal one, they work fine. Sr20 turbos go for sub $100, rebuild kits are $90.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Also quit with this "when i can afford it" bullshit.

If you'll be able to afford it soon, just wait, and do it right.
In the mean time, read more.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Guys, I'll get a decent setup WHEN I CAN AFFORD IT.

In the mean time, I'll keep wasting money on terrible parts, SO THAT I WILL NEVER AFFORD IT.

2ndGearRubber

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

The way I was looking at is
A. BEGI sells and uses cheap chinese turbos, what's the difference between the ones they sell and one from ebay other than the fact that BEGI marks them up an extra $100?
B. It's a cast manifold which I searched this forum and was unable to find any cases of one failing. If you can point me to a thread in which one has, I will definitely just save for the BEGI
C. The downpipe is kinda sketchy, sure, but it's the only one I've seen to work with this manifold. The external wastegate is only because that's what this downpipe uses. I was also considering just having the downpipe made at a local muffler shop which would solve both of these issues and still be cheaper than a begi, though it would be crush bent

Did just pick up those 1.8 injectors and BEGI fpr from curly, submitted a bid on a innovate LC1 wideband, and PM'd another member here about gt2560r set-up, so maybe I'll be able to build a better set-up on my budget than I thought

curly

iTrader: (25)

It's a decent started setup. You should still be able to sell all the parts, they'll all retain some value.

The cast mani should have a non-external wastegate setup, just look around. That'll save you $60 and most likely a failure.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Does this not make any sense for everyone else, or just me?

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

Ok, after some more reading there are several people on this forum using this manifold which is referred to as a taco taco manifold. Also several people using an ebay t3 turbo, including braineack:

I just ordered the same turbo, hopefully I can modify or swap out the wastegate so that it only makes 5-6 PSI until I can get a MS in there. I've also decided to have a custom v-band downpipe made at a local muffler shop that has made me about 3 exhausts in the past including a 3" over-axle downpipe-back on an 88 celica alltrac which most people said could not be done because space was too tight, so he's a good fabricator. This will be the first time having him make a downpipe though. I'm mostly concerned with the first bend right off the turbo being too tight to be crush-bent so I'm going to order 1 2.5" 90 degree mandrel bend and then have him step it up to 3" when there's room to do so.

Parts list so far:

BEGI FPR - used $100
1.8L injectors - used $50
CXracing t3 turbo .60 A/R compressor, 0.42 A/R exhaust exducer w/ v band adaptor $208
taco taco manifold - $126
Russel braided hoses, summit racing hose ends, aeroquip/earl's fittings - $116
3" magnaflow muffler, 3" magnaflow cat, v-band flanges/clamps, 2.5" 90 degree mandrel bend, o2 sensor bung $229
olderguy o2 clamp - $90
FMIC, piping, couplers, clamps - borrowing from friend for now $0
AEM wideband - borrowing from friend for now $0
cost to have turbo-back exhaust made ~$300

Total cost $1219. Or $1034 if I hold off on the exhaust and just have him mate the DP to my 2.25 cat-back. Looks like I'm staying very close to my $1000 budget and then I'll only be a MS, 460cc injectors, and boost controller away from my eventual power goals

x808drifter

Do you still have the stock rear end???
If so, that's your fkn problem right there.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I realize you need a cat for CA, but ditch the muffler, turbo'd miatas are plenty streetable with just a cat. Especially for a drift car. More loud!

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

Nope, 1.8 housing with an rx7 clutch type lsd. The rest of the car is built pretty much how I want it suspension, drivetrain, and interior-wise, I just need more power now. I waited on this because I was trying to decide whether I wanted to go turbo, supercharger, NA 1.8 swap, or 1.8 swap + turbo. I honestly still haven't decided that which is why I was trying to build a sub-$1000 set-up and if I blow the motor it just gives me a great reason to do the swap.

Honestly, I've only just started drifting about halfway through last season and didn't expect to progress so fast... What I mean is, I'm at a point to where my driving has caught up to my car and now it's the lack of power holding me back. I do fine on the corners that I have a huge straight-away before and can get to the top of 2nd gear, but on the more technical corners where I can only get to around 4000-5000 rpm in second gear or trying to transition and tie corners together the car just runs out of steam, I can only keep those tires spinning if I'm at like 6000 rpm+

curly, the track I take my car to requires the car to have a muffler, the cat is not legal either way but I still drive my car on the street and I hate the cat-less smell plus it looks at least a little better if I get pulled over. I also wanted it to be on the quiet side to avoid being pulled over in the first place, haha. I was planning on putting a second V-band on the exhaust and having a second pipe made with a more straight-through muffler with no cat and just switch it out when I go to the track.

I changed my mind yet again though after searching craigslist last night and finding this guy:


Picked that up last night for $120, just has one surface that the guy ground a tiny bit off for clearance on his car, it's purely cosmetic though. I'm just going to use that ebay dp with this wastegate so everything can just be bolt-on and go and it saves me a little cash up front since I'll just be bolting it to my 2.25 exhaust for now.

I've ordered just about everything I need to, just a couple things to pick up locally, here's the breakdown right now (all prices include shipping and sales tax):

Turbo $208.05
Manifold/DP $225.74
Oil lines and all fittings $130.93
BEGI FPR $100.00
1.8l injectors $50.00
Tial wastegate $120.00
misc couplers $22.42
misc gaskets $28.80

Things left to buy:

Olderguy o2 clamp $90
Exhaust manifold gasket ~$15
2-bolt exhaust gasket $3
O2 sensor bung $8
labor to have bung welded $20
all new grade 8 hardware $25
misc ? ~$50?

Total cost estimate $1096.94

curly

iTrader: (25)

FPR and injectors shipped yesterday via USPS. Hopefully. Their self serve kiosk wasn't 100% intuitive to this AARP member.