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Looks good so far. You'll want a bigger catch can if you plan to track it. I know you bought a fancy gate, but if you want the hood to go on unmolested just weld the gate shut and use an external one. I really really want to build a second exocet and try to keep it as light as possible.
Looks good so far. You'll want a bigger catch can if you plan to track it. I know you bought a fancy gate, but if you want the hood to go on unmolested just weld the gate shut and use an external one. I really really want to build a second exocet and try to keep it as light as possible.
Street only build.
Hood fits with the new gate, part of the reason I had the second manifold made.
I'd like to build another one with the paco suspension kit and a v8
Theoretically this should fit a non exocet just fine right?
I don't see why not. You'd just have to find a way to mount them to the chassis so that they don't droop/ rub on anything. Won't work with aftermarket calipers though, which is a deal breaker for me.
I don't see why not. You'd just have to find a way to mount them to the chassis so that they don't droop/ rub on anything. Won't work with aftermarket calipers though, which is a deal breaker for me.
Mainly just concerned that a non exocet car not being a skeleton would prevent any path of least resistance routing that the exocet has, not having to worry about panels that may be in the way. In regards to mounting, I would personally mount them exactly as he has, shouldnt be to difficult.
In regards to aftermarket calipers. If you ended these lines exactly where the stock hardlines terminate that would allow for any aftermarket caliper adaptability you could possibly desire.
I don't see why not. You'd just have to find a way to mount them to the chassis so that they don't droop/ rub on anything. Won't work with aftermarket calipers though, which is a deal breaker for me.
Why wouldn't it? Mine bolts to my wilwoods just fine
Why wouldn't it? Mine bolts to my wilwoods just fine
I stand corrected. I just assumed based on the product description and pictures that each line was just a straight shot from the master cylinder to banjo fitting. I guess there's a fitting in between?
the ends are -3 fittings that attach to banjo adapters, so you could use whatever fitting you need to adapt to -3. Also the MC to rear and the passenger side front lines come unassembled so you can cut to length.
not sure I would put these on a miata though since you can just replace the rubber with stainless and have essentially the same thing. I only used the kit because I didn't want to bend/flare new hard lines.
the ends are -3 fittings that attach to banjo adapters, so you could use whatever fitting you need to adapt to -3. Also the MC to rear and the passenger side front lines come unassembled so you can cut to length.
not sure I would put these on a miata though since you can just replace the rubber with stainless and have essentially the same thing. I only used the kit because I didn't want to bend/flare new hard lines.
I personally no longer have hardlines after my rebuild. I ended up cutting a lot of them out and just removing them entirely, so this may be a sound solution for my particular needs.
Should this be moved to the build section? Mods feel free...
So my good friend flew out from FL for a few days and we put in a bunch of hours on the car. Long story short, it runs and drives. Tune is nowhere near perfect but its good enough to drive around the apartments, and I'm a bit confused as to why I'm at 6 ReqFuel with the ID1000s. The calculator gives me a 3 but without super high numbers on the VE table it won't run. With a 6 reqfuel the VE table is more reasonable. Running sequential fuel, I've tried 1 squirt simultaneous and 2 squirt alternating... Still wants the higher reqfuel #, seeing 48s around idle on the VE table @ 14.7 idle when warmed up. 70psi fuel pressure at idle, since some searches came up saying thats where the IDs were happiest.
Can't get the stage 8 stuff to fit, so I'm going to replace those with some copper locking nuts.
Also made an adapter plate for the skunk2 throttle body to use an NB idle valve, I bought one for the NA but decided later on to use the NB valve. Rather than buy another, I drew up a design and 3d printed a test piece and some drilling templates. Seems to work great. We forgot to take pictures of the piece we made out of 1/4" aluminum, but i'll post a screenshot of the CAD design.
Big thanks to everyone here for all the information available...from making the MTX and MS match, setting the right base pressure for the IDs, or closed loop idle info (going to mess with that tomorrow). It's nice to be able to have a place to search for info and find it right away.
fancy wastegate with a 5psi spring. will run no boost control on just the spring until I get the other block built up and swapped in.
Interested to see if these EFR turbos don't have boost creep issues like the garret turbos. The internal waste gate design looks to be much better at bypassing flow.
08-23-2016, 01:23 PM
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