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Old 10-07-2015, 09:07 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Pat read my post better. I said yet, for now, wait. There are other things to check first.

Ryan. If your ECU wasn't wired for the crank sensor internally it won't matter what you hook up on the outside.
His car, he can do whatever. I know it sucks when you can't get your MS to sync. If it was my car in this situation I'd start with what's known to work, and that's OEM wheels/sensor. Then if it don't work, sure, maybe the MS is at fault or not wired right. Process of elimination. He already said he's confused.
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Old 10-07-2015, 09:46 PM   #222
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Tested the crank sensor. Dead. Cannot get a voltage change when ppwered, grounded, test lead to ground and signal, with a screwdriver in front of the sensor. WTF.

Can anyone shed light as to why I no longer have lit LEDS on the ms?
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Old 10-07-2015, 09:50 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
Tested the crank sensor. Dead. Cannot get a voltage change when ppwered, grounded, test lead to ground and signal, with a screwdriver in front of the sensor. WTF.

Can anyone shed light as to why I no longer have lit LEDS on the ms?
I'm not completely clear how you tested it, but without an oscilloscope I don't think you tested the sensor correctly. Not sure what your test lead was hooked up to? If not an o-scope, test is probably not a good test.
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Old 10-07-2015, 09:52 PM   #224
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Paging Braineack and Ben
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Old 10-07-2015, 09:56 PM   #225
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According to the interweb, power and ground unit. Place a multimeter on ground and signal. Wave metal in front of the sensor and I should see a voltage change. Internet said, so it HAS to be true.
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Old 10-07-2015, 10:43 PM   #226
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According to the interweb, power and ground unit. Place a multimeter on ground and signal. Wave metal in front of the sensor and I should see a voltage change. Internet said, so it HAS to be true.
Well that should work, but whether you see it respond depends on the hardware you hooked up to measure the voltage change. Thus why I asked what you used. An O-scope would easily pick this up. A DMM, probably not.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:48 AM   #227
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if his only problem was the wheel he'd at least see SOME sort of signal
also the no-connect and no lights issue on new fw and connect and lights on old indicates some sort of disagreement between hardware and firmware/software
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Old 10-09-2015, 06:14 PM   #228
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OK I got a signal, but others look funny..Why does the red one stop before the other. still no start.
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Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-screen_of_log_36866bd4f1304ce067dcbb37802e4c0b1d5502ac.png  

Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 10-09-2015 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 10-09-2015, 06:15 PM   #229
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How close did you wave it. Needs to be about as far away as a business card.
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Old 10-09-2015, 06:30 PM   #230
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Not really sure what you're trying to do but kinda sounds like your test might not work on a signal that needs a pull up.

The way I do this is to leave the system setup normally and fully plugged in/etc.
Then back probe the signal wire at the connector off of the crank sensor. You do this by shoving a sharp sewing needle into the back of the connector while its still plugged in.
Hook your multimeter onto that needle, then just spin the motor by hand. When your wheel nub lines up with the sensor you multimeter should read a full swing voltage change.

like this (on a dizzy, but idea's the same):


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Old 10-09-2015, 07:21 PM   #231
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This signal was on the car. New sensor. .040

lots of cranking and the plugs don't have any fuel on them either..

Can someone tell me what way the fuel flows through the fpr? when looking at the writing on the sticker, the bottom is return or feed?

Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 10-09-2015 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 10-10-2015, 01:43 PM   #232
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My bros. I need some help.
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Old 10-10-2015, 01:50 PM   #233
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If you're using the stock fpr, the inlet is from the rail (fpr bolts to the rail) the outlet is the only thing you can get a house on. The convention holds for any fpr
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Old 10-10-2015, 03:15 PM   #234
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Fuel lines were backwards. rad.
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Old 10-10-2015, 03:26 PM   #235
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I am begging for help. Please, somebody look at my tune and help provide some insight as to why I do not have spark. I have tried using the Spark/Injection test mode, but when I follow the TS instructions, the "start test" never lights up. All of the ignition worked, prior to switching to ms3, except for the 36-2, which is new.
CurrentTune.msq

EDIT: I just noticed that the ms is reding an RPM, but the one on the dash is not. problem?
EDIT for this^^^, turned tach output to on, got tach. plugs fired once. now nothing.

Another edit: I am getting a 12v supply to the coils.

Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 10-10-2015 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:32 PM   #236
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now along with no spark, I no o
longer get a tach reading on the dash. Im just chasing my tail here.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:35 PM   #237
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Did you switch to wasted spark instead of wasted cop?
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:41 PM   #238
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Yep. When I turned the tach to ON, I got a reading, a sputter, now nothing. No sputter, no tach.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:49 PM   #239
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composite log?
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Old 10-10-2015, 05:01 PM   #240
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I'll get one. So I removed all of the plugs, 2 wet ones, two dry ones. One of the wet ones was firing. Only one though. How could I possibly only be getting fuel to two cylinders? I mean injector install was pretty straight forward. Plug, snap, done.
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