BigBird

iTrader: (1)

I have a bone stock 1999 miata with 120,xxx miles. I have a garret gt1752 turbo I'm wanting to put on it. I have a fm vodoo box for fuel and the timing wheel for timing. Looking at a obx turbo header or building my own. And if anyone knows of a budget friendly bov it would be great. Trying to decide between intercooler, meth, or both. I'm wanting to run about 8psi. I'm just wanting to get some feed back before I start as this is my first turbo build Experience with these parts and if I'm missing anything would be great. And yes I've been searching the forums for weeks now. Just wanting to make sure I have the right idea before I start

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

I know this is my first post on this forum but ive been around for a while and im telling you now, ditch the "band - aid " as they call it here and get a real management system. youll be much happier/safer in the end.

also, a meth kit is going to be overkill I think. you should be more then ok with just an intercooler.

BigBird

iTrader: (1)

I just don't know if I can afford ms and I was looking at meth because I can build a setup for that cheaper than I can find an intercooler But I don't plan to exceed 8psi and I only gave$200 for the vodoo. Trying to stay budget friendly when I can

dieselmiata

iTrader: (3)

If you can't afford a Megasquirt, you can't afford to boost your car. Basing your build around one part that you do have is also inadviseable.

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

I know its hard but what I ALWAYS do it secure management first. the rest will come easy.

plus its just as expensive to replace and engine as it is for a basic MS setup. just sayin...

BigBird

iTrader: (1)

I know it's better but is it worth it for my set up? From what I've seen it costs at least $1000 and I'm trying to stay less than that for my turbo build (not clutch or suspension or anything). But I was hopeing to start at 8psi with vodoo and if I decide I need more then get mega squirt and upgrade. Is it worth it? Or should I get it over with? If I go straight to ms it'll slow my budget wayyyy down. I'm 19 and don't have much money to spare

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

well, if you wanna run your voodoo box or fmu or whatever you can of course. its been done a million times. i would be skeptical about an obx manifold. i would get a cast manifold as they tend do be a bit stronger and resist cracking with the weight of the turbo. they can be had for around 2-300. get a generic ebay intercooler for under 100. oil and water lines and intercooler piping and youre done.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

I will give you a warning, please head.

READ THE STICKIES

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

I would STRONGLY rec you read this too. it should answer all or most of your questions and save you from alot of crap..


https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...big-post-4288/

curly

iTrader: (25)

Anybody else wanna say anything about his turbo size? I thought my 2554 was small...

cjsafski

iTrader: (2)

Either twin turbo or all the spool

lollolol I budged $500 for both an MS2 and wideband on the last car I built and stuck to it. You just need an IQ above 3.

BigBird

iTrader: (1)

Is that too small of a turbo? Will i be able to reach 8psi? I have two others that are bigger but this one is in the best shape and will fit the easiest. And where can I find a cast manifold? I didn't see any when I was looking before but may not have looked hard enough. Also where is the easiest place to get oil from? I was kind of thinking of the oil filter adapter plate so I wouldn't have to drill holes. And I have read the stickies btw. Just wanting to make sure I understood it before I start

curly

iTrader: (25)

Well, cjsafsky wasn't joking, it's closer in size to a decent twin turbo setup.

But I'm not seeing a 1752 on Garrett's site. Are you sure that's what you meant to type?

Generally even a 2554 is considered the smallest you want for even a 1.6

Try reading this helpful site, and check out the compressor maps of any turbo you're considering.

ClubCalibra | How To Read A Turbo Compressor Map

curly

iTrader: (25)

You can see with this 1548 map (closest to the size you mentioned):



Makes 190hp max, at a maximum pressure of 21psi, and would be happy at 125hp and 10psi.

A turbo a step up from the one you mentioned (2052):

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...64-1&2comp.jpg

Makes 215hp max, at a maximum pressure of 20psi, and would be happy at 150hp and 10psi.

The smallest one we like is, as mentioned, the 2554:



Makes 275hp max, at a maximum pressure of 23psi, and would be happy at 200hp and 12psi.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

You will probably reach 8psi by 300 rpm, but by the time you get to 3500 rpm, you will be strugling to get half that, and by redline you'll be just barely breaking atmospheric.

If you can't afford a project car AND a daily driver, then you can't afford a project car.

This is the one primary reason that most teenagers opt to do dumb **** to their cars - blacked out headlights, foglights (to compensate for the fact that your blacked out headlights suck), Chopped exhaust, colored spark plug wires... these are all things that I did when I was 16/17/18/19 years old. I wanted to do "cool ****" to my truck, but I knew that if I fucked up something aesthetic or couldn't complete it over a weekend, I'd still have a perfectly running automobile that could get me to work. If you can't afford to do a simple MSPNP now, then how do you plan to afford the hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of unforecasted extra bits and pieces to get your sportbike turbo properly pushing air into your intake manifold? How will you handle being without a car for 2 months or more? (because that's a realistic timeframe for a "first turbo build" for someone who plans to fabricate/buy everything piecemeal and put it all together himself and get it running safely enough to not blow up the first time he goes half-throttle) Will you be able to afford a properly sized turbo when you realize that what you're using is appropriately sized for a lawn tractor? What about the rebuild/refabrication of the manifold, downpipe, and intake?

Lastly, WHEN you blow it up (because you let your buddy convince you that you could get more power by turning up the boost ****), the fact that you decided not to get a proper engine management system now is going to be the least of your worries when you have to shop for a replacement at a used car dealership or a BHPH because there's no way that you have enough cash to buy a running car off of craigslist.

As invincible and grown-up as you feel right now, you're still a kid. You may have 19 years of "life experience", but you have less than 4 years of driving experience. I'd be willing to bet that your actual "conceptualizing automotive and mechanical principles" is on par with a toddler.

Would you like to go from "toddler" to "englightened" real quick? Buy and read this book:
It's the cheapest $23 you'll ever spend.

Notice I did not say it's the "best" $23 you'll ever spend, I said "cheapest".

Q: But Fooger, why isn't it the "best"?

A: It pretty much is, but that isn't my point. You don't have the money to afford the "best", but you do have the money to afford the "cheapest". By telling you it's the "cheapest" $23 you'll ever spend, I am keeping this discussion relevant to your interests.

Q: But Fooger, how can $23 be cheaper than $23? The value of $23 is defined as being $23, isn't it?

A: The money and time that you save from spending $23 here will make this purchase a "net gain" for your bank account. By spending $23 here, you'll save hundreds or thousands in the long run. That's a pretty cheap $23 when you think about it that way.

In the end, though, let me reiterate this most important point:
If you can't afford a project car AND a daily driver, then you can't afford a project car.

Buy the book. Learn as much as you can. Save up some money to buy a second car. THEN start adding go-fast parts to your Miata. This is the best advice you'll ever get on this topic.

BigBird

iTrader: (1)

Yes I'm sure it's a 1752. It's factory off an old Saab. And just because I'm a teenager doesn't mean I'm stupid I have a daily driver and this isn't my first car build. Ive rebuilt a 1.6 and 1.8 miata before and i have a 97 trans am that ive built. Cam stall headers gears trans ect. Tuned by me. And if thats not enough i mow my yard with a 1972 john deer i built myself. So dont assume without learing facts first. The only reason I'm on here is because it's my first turbo build and I wanted to double check my info before I started. Ill check my other turbo when I get home and see if you guys think it's too big. Unless its worth finding another 1752 and doing a twin set up

18psi

iTrader: (76)

It takes a special kind of retard to fail this hard.

tin can china manifold - check
bandAIDZ instead of proper management - check
building a setup around some random fail turbo - check
setting goals based on restriction of flow - check

I mean, literally, there is nothing you can do to make this thread worse or your build any more retarded. I mean I would be surprised if you did.

Oh and almost forgot the last one:

Asking the most moronic questions then getting defensive and claiming you know what you're doing cause you built some lawn mower - check

I'm dying over here

BigBird

iTrader: (1)

Well I could always run all 3 of my turbos, no intercooler and a 150shot . Park bench spoiler just the whole 9 yards. I bet I can even find some neons if I looked I didn't realize that turbo was to small. At least I'm not trying to run the one I got off a Volvo big rig. I'm trying to do a budget build with what I have. I'd rather build a manifold than spend $500 for a name brand. And if the china tin can will crack that's what I'll do. I asked because chances are someone on here has used these parts and I wanted to know how it worked for them

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Maybe not, but this thread certainly means you're stupid.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

There are tons and tons and tons of budget builds on here.

But unless you are extremely lucky or a serious fabricator and have a ton of spare parts, you're not gonna build anything even remotely worth a crap for 1000. The people that build functioning yet extreme budget systems are the exception, not the rule. Meaning the chances of you failing are quite high. And since you're new to miata's and turbocharging, I'd say the chances are like 99.99 to .01

If you are more reasonable, and budget at least 2-2.5k to play with, I'd say give it a shot.