Finding heat shield materials
#1
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Finding heat shield materials
Hey guys, ITS SUMMER (im out of college).
Now I actually have time to do the small things on my car. I am about to build some heat shielding. I was wondering where you buy the rubber trim that people use around the cutouts in their bumper and around the heat shields for the intake.
Something like this:
EDIT: thanks vash
Now I actually have time to do the small things on my car. I am about to build some heat shielding. I was wondering where you buy the rubber trim that people use around the cutouts in their bumper and around the heat shields for the intake.
Something like this:
EDIT: thanks vash
#12
Free WI sucks!
I had some poor air filter placement (in front of passenger wheel behind bumper) when I was mounting things before I did all the IC piping. I had it there for about a week, and hit two big frog stranglers. When I took off the intake elbow to go turbo, there was about 1/16" of silt in the coupling. That couldn't have been good. I think I sandblasted my internals, and they've still got carbon deposits.
I too need to make a good CAI as my intake temps sometimes hit 140*. I was thinking aluminum street sign with vacuum hose trim as well, but want to find a way to pressurize that zone. I know the cowl filter placements see a slight pressurization, but I don't want to move my clutch line.
Has anyone ever run their intake all the way up to behind the bumper?
I had some poor air filter placement (in front of passenger wheel behind bumper) when I was mounting things before I did all the IC piping. I had it there for about a week, and hit two big frog stranglers. When I took off the intake elbow to go turbo, there was about 1/16" of silt in the coupling. That couldn't have been good. I think I sandblasted my internals, and they've still got carbon deposits.
I too need to make a good CAI as my intake temps sometimes hit 140*. I was thinking aluminum street sign with vacuum hose trim as well, but want to find a way to pressurize that zone. I know the cowl filter placements see a slight pressurization, but I don't want to move my clutch line.
Has anyone ever run their intake all the way up to behind the bumper?
#13
Free WI sucks!
I had some poor air filter placement (in front of passenger wheel behind bumper) when I was mounting things before I did all the IC piping. I had it there for about a week, and hit two big frog stranglers. When I took off the intake elbow to go turbo, there was about 1/16" of silt in the coupling. That couldn't have been good. I think I sandblasted my internals, and they've still got carbon deposits.
I too need to make a good CAI as my intake temps sometimes hit 140*. I was thinking aluminum street sign with vacuum hose trim as well, but want to find a way to pressurize that zone. I know the cowl filter placements see a slight pressurization, but I don't want to move my clutch line.
Has anyone ever run their intake all the way up to behind the bumper?
I had some poor air filter placement (in front of passenger wheel behind bumper) when I was mounting things before I did all the IC piping. I had it there for about a week, and hit two big frog stranglers. When I took off the intake elbow to go turbo, there was about 1/16" of silt in the coupling. That couldn't have been good. I think I sandblasted my internals, and they've still got carbon deposits.
I too need to make a good CAI as my intake temps sometimes hit 140*. I was thinking aluminum street sign with vacuum hose trim as well, but want to find a way to pressurize that zone. I know the cowl filter placements see a slight pressurization, but I don't want to move my clutch line.
Has anyone ever run their intake all the way up to behind the bumper?
#14
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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I have cruise controll and that area is off limits. I know people have moved it but does it still work? I plan on doing drives and that might help on those roads where were actually doing the speed limit.
#15
I'm sure it could be moved as long as the cable doesn't bind.
The only other thing going to it is one connector and a vacuum line. Both are position irrelevant. You could probably make some brackets and get it all the way down to the shelf. I just took mine off, took all of 3 minutes. The factory cruise sucked anyways...then it fails.
I just watch my GPS...more accurate and higher up in field of view. I commute 100 miles between school and home, and *knock on wood* have yet to get a ticket in the Miata. My wife's Cavalier was dangerous though...three tickets in one year in that shitbox.
The only other thing going to it is one connector and a vacuum line. Both are position irrelevant. You could probably make some brackets and get it all the way down to the shelf. I just took mine off, took all of 3 minutes. The factory cruise sucked anyways...then it fails.
I just watch my GPS...more accurate and higher up in field of view. I commute 100 miles between school and home, and *knock on wood* have yet to get a ticket in the Miata. My wife's Cavalier was dangerous though...three tickets in one year in that shitbox.
#19
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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I moved mine closer to the brake booster and more inboard to make room for my cowl CAI setup. I basically just found some unused holes and bent the cruise actuator brackets to fit. No big deal.
You could zip tie it to something if you wanted to. It does not need to be secure for the cable pull, just for its own support.
You could zip tie it to something if you wanted to. It does not need to be secure for the cable pull, just for its own support.
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