Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I cant get my drill close enough to the pan, and my bit isnt long enough to reach. The damn power steering lines are in the way.

What do I do? Any suggestions?

Im afraid to drill at it from an angle, the best I can do is maybe 15 degrees off horizontal.

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

Why don't you simply move the lines out of the way?? It's not hard at all.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

You mean people actually keep their power steering?

99NBMia

iTrader: (6)

I know I will get shunned for this, but I actually drilled/tapped mine on the front of the pan very close to the corner...no drain problems at all.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Im keeping my AC too

They are kinda hard, I was afraid to break em.

Interesting idea. got pics?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I disconnected the lines from the P/S rack, then unbolted the rack from the chassis and let it dangle by the tierods. Made it super-easy.

Keith@FM

iTrader: (1)

A bit of an angle isn't a problem, just make sure you tap it straight.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Funny, I think that's what I told you too Sam. Schwing

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

No you didnt

See if you came down that weekend you were in upstate, you could have done the **** for me. everytime I get under the car to do it I feel like I have parkinsons.

spike

Before you drill,tape the drill bit and only expose about 1/2'' of the drill bit,doing this will prevent the drill bit from pulling in further when it breaks through the pan.Make sure you grease the bit too.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Guarantee I brought up on the phone that the pan wasn't very thick to begin with so drilling the hole at an angle isn't that big of a deal as long as you cut your threads straight.
I talk smack, but I've never tapped a pan. <--*****

Trent

iTrader: (11)

i had my engine out of the car for a Braineack-style chassis swap when i tapped mine. Pulled the pan for good measure and used a large drill press. I have the best-tapped pan EVAAR.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

The best tapped pan ever wouldn't be tapped at all. Would be nice to be able to drill and weld on a real bung to the outside. To bad its far to easy to just drill and tap it in the car.

secretsquirrel

I was able to tack weld my 37/64 drill bit into a deep 1/2 inch socket and then use a 24" and 12" extension to get a perfectly straight shot through the wheel well (w/ PS & AC). It was the only way to do it without removing all kinds of sh*t. I crammed the 3/8 x 18 npt tap into a 16mm x 12pt socket and used the same extensions to do the tapping - everything very slowly with numerous cleanings & greasings. I tacked a pilot bit into a smaller size deep socket to get things started - forget what size...

Jesse H

iTrader: (1)

I drilled mine at a substantial angle, probably closer to 20 degrees. Tapped it straight.

secretsquirrel

[/IMG]

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Wow, that's smart. If I don't pull the engine and drop the pan, I'm doing that!

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

That was sarcasm, of course you brought it up.

Great idea, except my bit doesn't have a square end, its round. :(

As for the tap, I have a 11/16 deep socket and a 3/8 drive ratchet I plan to use.


Already made myself some baller volume **** bit stops.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

His bits are round as well, he welded them inside sockets to do that.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

OH.

I know aluminum is soft, I just cant imagine how long it would take to ratchet a drill bit through the pan, not to mention the physical strength required applied over that length of time.