Here's What I've Been Up To
06-15-2007, 06:21 PM
#24
Boost Czar
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
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less frontal surface area, the internal airflow closer to the front will be cooled slightly better than the airflow closer to the radiator. Can it be calulated? I dunno.
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06-15-2007, 07:41 PM
#28
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Eddington, ME
Posts: 115
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I use flat black mesh in my front and rear bumpers. I don't really care what others think since I also have a body kit which is pretty taboo to most of the Miata world. Before I put the mesh in you could see right under the car since I am sure my bumper has a bigger grill area than an OEM one and it was just this big obnoxious hole and it bugged me so I fixed it. There is no way no how that mesh restricts airflow it like 1/4" holes or something not window screen.
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06-15-2007, 08:02 PM
#29
Boost Czar
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
inefficient. the only amount of air that can pass through it is that 4x4" sqaure, by the time the air passes through, it'll probably be as heated as the charge.
the greater the frontal area, the greater the amount of ambient air that goes through the core, the great the air through the core, the greater the cooling capability.
so while added thickness will increase efficiency, the gains become less and less. the 2nd half of the intercooler is doing less and less work. and then the thicker the core, the more difficult it is for air to pass through; drag coefficient.
everything about picking an intercooler is a compromise.
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06-15-2007, 11:35 PM
#30
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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inefficient. the only amount of air that can pass through it is that 4x4" sqaure, by the time the air passes through, it'll probably be as heated as the charge.
the greater the frontal area, the greater the amount of ambient air that goes through the core, the great the air through the core, the greater the cooling capability.
so while added thickness will increase efficiency, the gains become less and less. the 2nd half of the intercooler is doing less and less work. and then the thicker the core, the more difficult it is for air to pass through; drag coefficient.
everything about picking an intercooler is a compromise.
the greater the frontal area, the greater the amount of ambient air that goes through the core, the great the air through the core, the greater the cooling capability.
so while added thickness will increase efficiency, the gains become less and less. the 2nd half of the intercooler is doing less and less work. and then the thicker the core, the more difficult it is for air to pass through; drag coefficient.
everything about picking an intercooler is a compromise.
READ HIS LAST LINE!!!!! Replace picking an intercooler with 'everything about working on your car' hehehe
choices! choices! there are toooooo many 
Beerslurpy....!no problem man!...NO OFFENSE TAKEN
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06-16-2007, 12:54 PM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 93
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Don't stop talking now....
I'm going to need everyones' help when I get this thing running.
HERE'S SOME PICS ON PHOTOBUCKET UNDER S.N. S10383
http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z126/s10383/
I'm going to need everyones' help when I get this thing running.
HERE'S SOME PICS ON PHOTOBUCKET UNDER S.N. S10383
http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z126/s10383/
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07-18-2007, 05:27 PM
#35
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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On lowering the radiator: Pretty much everything I did is in the pics...
-Cut hooks off stock lower mounts. Weld slotted extension plates on lower mounts, weld nut onto hooks. Bolt hooks to the slotted extension plates.
-Make plates that mount to stock upper radiator mounts. Drill hole on these plates about 3.5" lower than stock mounting height. Through bolt the radiator to the top mount plates.
-Slide hooks to where needed to match up with the stock lower holes on the radiator. Slide stock lower pins through the holes on the radiator. Viola!
- Notch upper radiator support cross piece. Weld in half of 2.5" exhaust pipe. Paint to match original body color.
-Remove radiator tubing on driver side from rail for lower water hose. Replace with 22" 1.25" I.D. flex hose. 22" rather than 20" is needed since the radiator is lowered.
The front mount I.C. and hard mount devil horns were all then built around this foundation.
ANYWAY:
The thing is all buttoned up. PICS ARE ON THEIR WAY... All I have left to do is flush the entire cooling system and turbo, drain and put new oil in,and recharge battery before I can start it up.
I have the greddy B.O.V. and recirc. tubing mounted but capped off to avoid vacuum leaks due to misadjustment for the first startup.
It's going to be about a week till I can get the time to flush it because I have to regrout my bathroom
Please check out my pics that will be posted up tomorrow.... let me know if you guys see anything I'm missing and lend any suggestions you have.
Anthony
-Cut hooks off stock lower mounts. Weld slotted extension plates on lower mounts, weld nut onto hooks. Bolt hooks to the slotted extension plates.
-Make plates that mount to stock upper radiator mounts. Drill hole on these plates about 3.5" lower than stock mounting height. Through bolt the radiator to the top mount plates.
-Slide hooks to where needed to match up with the stock lower holes on the radiator. Slide stock lower pins through the holes on the radiator. Viola!
- Notch upper radiator support cross piece. Weld in half of 2.5" exhaust pipe. Paint to match original body color.
-Remove radiator tubing on driver side from rail for lower water hose. Replace with 22" 1.25" I.D. flex hose. 22" rather than 20" is needed since the radiator is lowered.
The front mount I.C. and hard mount devil horns were all then built around this foundation.
ANYWAY:
The thing is all buttoned up. PICS ARE ON THEIR WAY... All I have left to do is flush the entire cooling system and turbo, drain and put new oil in,and recharge battery before I can start it up.
I have the greddy B.O.V. and recirc. tubing mounted but capped off to avoid vacuum leaks due to misadjustment for the first startup.
It's going to be about a week till I can get the time to flush it because I have to regrout my bathroom
Please check out my pics that will be posted up tomorrow.... let me know if you guys see anything I'm missing and lend any suggestions you have.
Anthony
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07-19-2007, 11:57 AM
#39
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 93
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Engine bay is done (other than remounting my washer reservoir and putting on hump couplers when the straights pop off
)
Now I just have to get some stuff done around the house and then i'll have the time to flush everything and get it started for the first time in 1.5months
http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z126/s10383/
)Now I just have to get some stuff done around the house and then i'll have the time to flush everything and get it started for the first time in 1.5months
http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z126/s10383/
Last edited by s10383; 07-19-2007 at 12:15 PM.
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07-21-2007, 11:19 AM
#40
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 93
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It runs!!!!!! Started it up last night, July 20. For the first time in 2 months!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! With the vortech 12:1 disc, it's pig rich up on the top end. I'm waiting on the exhaust clamp that bolts the dp to the bellhousing, and have to bleed my brakes real good. Until then I can't romp on it at all. Then it's off to the dyno!!
Anyone have any discs for a vortech for sale???
Anyone have any discs for a vortech for sale???
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