opek

Oh my god, another one of these? So Sorry in advance.

As I build my kit, I want to be sure I'm using my knowledge to my advantage, but I don't know anything.

If you see any prices I've estimated that are incorrect, please let me know. I drive a 95 miata, and I'm looking to make around 300whp and have room to grow up to 350+.


The basics:
used t3/t4e 50trim .48a/r (300)
BEGI t3 manifold (389)
BEGI 5bolt mild steel downpipe (375)
Rubber Oil Supply/drain + fittings (50)
Ebay intercooler kit (200) IC/pipes/couplers/tbolts
Screen as filter to start (0)
Total: 1550

EMS/Support:
95 PNP megasquirt (600?)
clutch good to 250 wtq (400?)
walbro 255 (100)
Injectors (200-400) what is the largest injector the stock fuel lines can support?
Total: 1500

Grand total: 3050



I have to have forgotten ****. I just know it.

I have a wideband and will be tuning the car myself. I doubt I'll be driving the car w/out a laptop handy, so I think I can save some cash on monitoring gauges (MAP/coolant/oil/etc).

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

Megasquirt pricing at diyautotune.com
Don't forget the IAT sensor kit.

Easy answer on the injectors is RX7 550's. ~$100 + cleaning/testing.

KGP can take care of you on the injector cleaning & fuel pump.

You'll need an BOV & exhaust. Don't know your timeframe, but I'm running a group buy for Enthuza now.

C

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Youre missing stuff. Pressure sender adapter, pcv valve, wideband o2.

I wouldnt use rubber for the oil feed and fittings and stuff wont run you 50, probably 100.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

kind of a small turbine.
and you're probably missing $1000 worth of stuff

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

You don't really need the fuel pump providing your OE pump is healthy.

If you are looking to make 300whp, you might want to make sure your clutch is up to the challenge. I'd go beyond what you think you'll need.

I think you need to allocate more money for the I/C setup.

I think you need to allocate more money for the oil/water fittings and line.

Screen as a filter? You are ******* nuts.

A laptop is great for datalogging, not so good at warning you and giving you a quick look into the health of your setup. Boost/WBO2/Oil Temp/EGT I think are all essential gauges to have. I hate to be driving in anger while trying to have a laptop display my AFR or oil temp.

Doing a 300whp Miata on a budget is going to be a challenge. Cheaping out on anything might cost you a lot in the future. 300whp is a tall order.

One thing few people point out is how much DIY will nickle and dime you. A few bucks here and there will eventually add up. It is amazing all the little bits and pieces that are included with a kit, that you will have to source yourself.

Good luck, I think you will need it.

Jay

opek

IAT sensor kit? I can't silicone the stock IAT into the charge piping? I don't believe in BOV's. Unfortunately 550's wont flow 350whp worth of e85, but may offer a cheap place to start. I say 300 for a custom made exhaust sounds about, so if your group buy is competitive let me know!

opek

I'm trying to make this power on E85, can I safely assume the stock miata fuel pump is not up to the challenge of flowing 350whp worth of e85?

I put a 250wtq clutch in my first post at 400 dollars, is that not sufficient?

The ebay intercoolers are about 100 shipped and the beaded piping kits w/ tbolts are about 100 shipped, let's call the intercooler setup 250 dollars just for fun?

How much do you think rubber oil lines will cost, if you noticed I'm not using a water cooled turbo.

I've run w/ a screen on my turbo for years.




Now what do you mean cheaping out can cost me a lot down the road? Like I popped an oil line and now there is a fire and my car burnt down? I'll play that risk, but what other risks have I put upon myself with my part selection?


I recently built a 400whp Honda DIY with junkyard parts, so this isn't my first time around the block. (It's my second )

I disagree with the bold type!

opek

Pressure sender adapter = oil pressure sender adapter?

I planned on just venting the crankcase to atmosphere from the valve cover, through a catch can.

I have a wideband.

opek

Well would you care to fill me in. And what is wrong with the .48 exhaust housing? You certainly aren't referring to the wheel.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I think your nuts for taking the risk of ingesting crap into your turbo. What's it cost to stick a K&N on the end of the turbo? $30-40? My engine/turbo is worth the investment. It's a retarded risk to take IMO.

As for E85 I must have missed that on your first post. No idea what size of FP you'll need.

This is THE DIY place to be for Miata Turbos, how many guys here are running 300whp or over? Obviously there are few and it's not cheap nor simple. I don't know what it takes to get 400whp on a civic, bigger VTECK?

Cheaping out is using rubber for oil lines. Again this comes down to risk vs cost. To me having a burst oil line NEXT to my turbo is worth a few $$$.

As for being nickle and dimed ... at the end of your build you tally EVERYTHING and then we'll talk. Do you notice that few people here actually post what their entire build costs? Most don't want to know ...

Ben

iTrader: (33)

No, not really. There's enough info between this site, flyinmiata.com and bellengineering.net for you to figure out what's missing.

opek

Why thanks. You are a nice fellow.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Ben, if a 1.6L can only produce about 14 lb/min out it's tailpipe, why use a turbine A/R that's max efficiency is at 21 lb/min.... a .48 T3 see max efficiency at 17 lb/min.

If the .63 T3 was the best choice, then you'd see more BEGi and FM kits using .86 housings on their T2 setups.


here's a t3/t4 on a 1.8L:




guess what A/R turbine it's not using....... *cough*nota.63*cough*

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

You are making a mistake going down this road. Stop posting for a while and do some reading and get a feel for everyone here before you start into a pissing match on your 17th post.

Ben's advice is good.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

He has a 1.8.
And wants to be spoon fed. And unless he produces hot nekkid pics of his wife, I suspect there will be bannage.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

even if i had a 1.8L i wouldn't go to a .63 myself. the only thing id be giving up is spoolup for possibly a tad more top-end. not worth it. again a 1.8L = 110 CI. 110CI * 7000RPM / 3456 / 14.47 = 15.4 lb/min....still under 17 lb/min.....

Ben

iTrader: (33)

hmm, maybe I'll just put a T04E compressor on my 48A/R turbine I already have.

opek

But all of that is dynamic, and I don't think I'll ever see 7000rpm without a **** ton of boost.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

ok now you've gone and done it....

opek

Am I asking to be spoon fed? Damn straight I am, lets write a FAQ so you don't have to be so mean to n00bs.

Your FAQ is great if you've never seen a car before, but I've put hundreds of hours into reading about how this stuff works. I helped write the FAQ over on a Honda site I post on. I'm asking for your experience, and for you to take your many years researching miatas and miata turbo systems and putting it out for me in just a couple of minutes. If someone tells me about their honda DIY turbo setup, I can answer address the fiscal reality as well as the overall potential of the setup. I don't think I am misunderstanding the overall potential of the setup I posted, but I don't have the five or six years reading on mazda forums to talk about the things unique to miatas.

Why not have a FAQ that discusses such issues? Especially if they are so common that you wont even tell me about them. No one has written them down? Maybe we can turn this into a FAQ for people that have seen a car before.

Hope that doesn't come off too mean.