JimAtFSU

Anyway, my car sprang a coolant leak and began overheating a little over a year ago. I changed the following:
-coolant reroute
-giant radiator
-spal fan
-oil cooler and oil filter relocate
-coil on plug setup

The driver's side fan broke on my first drive (some kind of defect in the fins) and so I replaced it with a high flow spal which I haven't taken a picture of yet.

Still waiting on:
-replacement bosch WB02 sensor
-westach analog needle O2 gauge

Pics

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

JimAtFSU

Gonna be a few more days until the WB sensor replacement and the new gauge gets here, then I drive around.

I can't wait to see what kind of difference the COP makes.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Uh, what kind of hose is that going from the back of the motor to the upper end tank on the radiator? Looks funky. Post details of your reroute

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

+1 on the interest in the coolant reroute hose.

I think you need a bigger air filter. That one's definitely gonna create a restriction.
Just kidding. It looks really big, must be the lighting.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

+1, I'd look into getting one for a Suburban. They're a little bigger I think.

JimAtFSU

I'm using every inch of space for the filter. I can't run a larger one.

That silver hose is from the summit catalog- it's a coolant tube for a hot rod. It's meant to be flashy, but I realized that it is also fairly sturdy while being flexible. I didn't want to have to deal with any leaks.

The coolant reroute consists of:
-swap front and back housings. Thermostat and radiator hose goes in back, heater core hose and coolant temperature probe goes in front.
-remove two lines from stalk in front and splice them together while blocking off where they attached on the stalk. This is to ensure more flow from the back of the engine through the intake manifold and back to the water pump manifold. The point of this is to make sure more flow is routed by the rear thermostat while cold (thermostat works fine with this config by the way)
-bigger radiator but nothing else changed.

It seems to work just fine.

willo

Just go to sears and buy the next size up!
Nice work on the lines.

naarleven

iTrader: (2)

Hey Jim, you at Florida State?

JimAtFSU

The law school, yeah. Graduating this spring.

JimAtFSU

Thanks. I put a lot of effort into routing everything so it wouldn't rub and making it so that the parts wouldn't move at all. It is a VERY tight fight behind the turn signal light.

You can't see it, but the intercooler is angled back which creates airflow into that blocked off area in front of the radiator. I've put the oil cooler there, right in the middle of the flow.

From the top, looking down into the engine bay:


From the engine bay, looking out over the front bumper:


From the ground, looking up through the bumper. Intercooler is in line with line of sight, oil cooler is the black thing:

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I think it'll work, but you've got to block off all that open area round the oil cooler (assuming you want the air to exit over the top of the rad). Of course that's going to add pressure to the back side of the rad. And I'd use some aluminum stock to make some hard mounts for your oil cooler. Run 'em from the hood latch bolts to the cooler tabs. Otherwise the bosses on the cooler are going to crack- they're brazed/soldered - not welded.

JimAtFSU

The bosses? The cooler only has a pair of threaded cavities. The "bosses" are brass fittings I threaded in at an angle. Or are you using that word in a way I do not understand?

naarleven

iTrader: (2)

I'm a junior undergrad in Poli Sci.


Graduating spring '10, sigh.

JimAtFSU

See that silver wire thing with the little clamp on it? That is connected to the steel mounting plate that sticks out from the cooler. You just can't see the actual contact point. The primary load bearing members for the oil cooler are
a) the top intercooler tank. One of the mounting tabs is wedged in there.
b) the front bumper. The other tab is resting on that.

The hood latch and the rear mounting tab are secured against horizontal movement with wire.
The front tab is secured with plastic ties at various places, as you can see. It's very sturdy with no high amount of load at any one place.