Help!!!!!!!!!!
01-16-2008, 07:19 PM
#1
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Help!!!!!!!!!!
i have 90 miata with a turbo. The turbo blew up so i need a new one.. the problem is i dont know what it is or what will fit
. it has a cast iron turbo manifold with four studs that hold it on, the down pipe is held on with 4 bolts but it not round. it has a wastgate intergrated. the comp. side has hoses on both sides no flanges. any ideas cause i am stumped and i really want one so i can drive my car. i can take pictures if it will help, thanks
andy
. it has a cast iron turbo manifold with four studs that hold it on, the down pipe is held on with 4 bolts but it not round. it has a wastgate intergrated. the comp. side has hoses on both sides no flanges. any ideas cause i am stumped and i really want one so i can drive my car. i can take pictures if it will help, thanksandy
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01-20-2008, 04:27 PM
#11
Those pictures are terrible. I can't see ****.
Often, when you're burning oil, it's not a problem with the turbo. What may be happening is that you're pressurizing the crankcase somehow and oil is backing up the return line and being forced through the seals of the compressor or turbine housing. There are many things that can cause this. You must answer all of the following questions for me so we can proceed with troubleshooting this thing. Here we go:
Exactly where is all the oil coming out of?
Remove and examine/test your PCV valve. Tell us if it works.
How is your valve cover breather line routed?
How is your oil return line routed?
What kind of oil are you using?
How much boost are you running?
Does your oil dipstick remain seated, or does it pop up?
Have you done a compression/leakdown test.
Exactly how is the compressor wheel messed up? How bad? Post a pic.
Where do you live?
Make a detailed list of everything you know about the turbo system and a complete list of every modification on the car for us. And take a couple better pictures so we can actually see something. And welcome to the forum!
Often, when you're burning oil, it's not a problem with the turbo. What may be happening is that you're pressurizing the crankcase somehow and oil is backing up the return line and being forced through the seals of the compressor or turbine housing. There are many things that can cause this. You must answer all of the following questions for me so we can proceed with troubleshooting this thing. Here we go:
Exactly where is all the oil coming out of?
Remove and examine/test your PCV valve. Tell us if it works.
How is your valve cover breather line routed?
How is your oil return line routed?
What kind of oil are you using?
How much boost are you running?
Does your oil dipstick remain seated, or does it pop up?
Have you done a compression/leakdown test.
Exactly how is the compressor wheel messed up? How bad? Post a pic.
Where do you live?
Make a detailed list of everything you know about the turbo system and a complete list of every modification on the car for us. And take a couple better pictures so we can actually see something. And welcome to the forum!
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01-20-2008, 11:54 PM
#12
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Well, i already traced it down to the hot wheel cause the car smokes like a train and there is no oil on the plugs.
Here is your response the pcv valve is working fine, the breather is vented to the atmosphere but there is a filter on it, the oil return line is routed around to the other side of the block but its all down hill with no kinks. I am running 10 30 mobile one, around 10 psi of boost. The dipstick remains seated, there is no excess crank pressure, the compression is perfect with no change if i put oil in the cyl to seat the rings. The wheel has a few bent edges but nothing major.
I live in california at about 2000 ft.
The turbo will boost up very high, but i have it waste gated to 10PSI. It has a large innercooler, oversized injecters, after market VAF that was tuned to richen up the computer, manual boost control, and a 2.5" exhaust pipe with high flow cat dual exhaust.
Thanks for everything, you seem to be very experienced with trouble-shooting, and I will try to get some more pictures tomorrow. Anywhere that I should focus on in particular?
Here is your response the pcv valve is working fine, the breather is vented to the atmosphere but there is a filter on it, the oil return line is routed around to the other side of the block but its all down hill with no kinks. I am running 10 30 mobile one, around 10 psi of boost. The dipstick remains seated, there is no excess crank pressure, the compression is perfect with no change if i put oil in the cyl to seat the rings. The wheel has a few bent edges but nothing major.
I live in california at about 2000 ft.
The turbo will boost up very high, but i have it waste gated to 10PSI. It has a large innercooler, oversized injecters, after market VAF that was tuned to richen up the computer, manual boost control, and a 2.5" exhaust pipe with high flow cat dual exhaust.
Thanks for everything, you seem to be very experienced with trouble-shooting, and I will try to get some more pictures tomorrow. Anywhere that I should focus on in particular?
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01-21-2008, 01:14 AM
#14
If you've got the oil drain routed around to the opposite side of the engine, then I suspect you've got a Greddy kit... makes sense.
I would start by doing 2 things.
Route your breather line to the intake.
Replace your PCV valve anyways with an OEM valve from a Mazda 323gtx.
If you do both of those things and the problem still exists... then I'd suspect a blown turbo. You do not need to replace it though. The stock Greddy turbo is a fine unit and will only need a rebuild.
http://www.gpopshop.com/mitsubishikits.html
Rebuild kits are cheap and there are a couple of great writeups on this board that walk you through the entire process. First time you do it, should probably take about 45minutes AFTER you get the housings off. If the turbo has been installed for more than about 10k miles... expect a GOD DAMN HARD TIME getting the housings to come off.
Here's a writeup for a T25... the process will not be exact, but the generic tips and tricks will be worth their weight in gold if you do it yourself. If you send the turbo out to be rebuilt (not a bad idea cause you can get your compressor wheel replaced) then expect around to spend more than a decent used turbo.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...hlight=rebuild
Theres a T3 rebuild writeup floating around somewhere that I can't find.
As for pics, just stand back a little bit so we can SEE. Take a pic of each side of the engine bay and one of the entire engine bay. NO ZOOM!
I would start by doing 2 things.
Route your breather line to the intake.
Replace your PCV valve anyways with an OEM valve from a Mazda 323gtx.
If you do both of those things and the problem still exists... then I'd suspect a blown turbo. You do not need to replace it though. The stock Greddy turbo is a fine unit and will only need a rebuild.
http://www.gpopshop.com/mitsubishikits.html
Rebuild kits are cheap and there are a couple of great writeups on this board that walk you through the entire process. First time you do it, should probably take about 45minutes AFTER you get the housings off. If the turbo has been installed for more than about 10k miles... expect a GOD DAMN HARD TIME getting the housings to come off.
Here's a writeup for a T25... the process will not be exact, but the generic tips and tricks will be worth their weight in gold if you do it yourself. If you send the turbo out to be rebuilt (not a bad idea cause you can get your compressor wheel replaced) then expect around to spend more than a decent used turbo.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...hlight=rebuild
Theres a T3 rebuild writeup floating around somewhere that I can't find.
As for pics, just stand back a little bit so we can SEE. Take a pic of each side of the engine bay and one of the entire engine bay. NO ZOOM!
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01-22-2008, 08:26 PM
#19
You need to run your valve cover breather to the intake after your filter in the turbo intake. That will relieve pressure on the crankcase allowing oil to drain appropriately as well as many other good things. Do not introduce boost to your crankcase.
It can cause oil to leak.
It can cause oil to leak.
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01-22-2008, 09:05 PM
#20
You need to run your valve cover breather to the intake after your filter in the turbo intake. That will relieve pressure on the crankcase allowing oil to drain appropriately as well as many other good things. Do not introduce boost to your crankcase.
It can cause oil to leak.
It can cause oil to leak.
GL to da OP..., subscribing for a happy ending..(not that kind)
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