Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Initial briefing:
This is her. Bought about a year ago, after my deployment/divorce, as my first venture away from domestics. Since then money pit.


After my 99 motor blew from low oil, I joined the boosted world with an 04 MSM motor with FM piping. I got her running with Megasquirt 2 and tuned myself with boost set to 14-15psi. Yes I know, pointless on that tiny turbo.
But now due to my luck ( probably from reading fae's thread) I believe to have bent a rod.
Video of sound to haunt your nightmares.

Story time:
This was the result of a bored night and thinking I'd get lunch control/flat shift to work. Didn't matter what wire on the clutch switch it was on it would always engage. So there I was in Advanced auto parts parking lot ( just happened to be down the road when I was going into launch control while driving) messing with it
Settings 3000rpm 15 timing retard ( or so I thought)
Decent settings right for testing?
A buddy that works at advanced yells "I don't see any flames!"
Well ****.. let's fix that 4000rpm set wait wut timing retard was set to 1? it didn't take my keystroke of 5?
Shiiiiiiiit.
Boom.


So what do I do?
I spend moneys to build it bigger, better and stronger.



Current parts listing in pile:
- Typical turbo Miata bottom end
Wiseco pistons 84mm
Eagle H beam rods
Full ARP studs
ACL racing bearings
Boundary Engineering oil pump
- My supporting mods and upgrades for my final goal
Fidanza flywheel
Walboro HP 255
RC 440cc injectors
Precision 350hp intercooler
Cometic head gasket
Full Gates racing belts ( timing and serpentines)
-Coolant reroute parts
Begi rear spacer
Escalade hose?
Block off freeze plug
______

Explanation:
RC 440cc injectors because I was planning on staying with the stock internal msm motor and not that much power increase. and got them for really cheap from a buddy 100$

Flywheel but no clutch huh?
I already have a ACT clutch in there already that was use a total of 1-2 months maybe.
________

My goal:
~20psi 400hp with decent spool.
I'm not picky on the exact numbers but this is where I want to be.
How?
EFR 6758
Top mount turbo manifold?? I kinda like the look of them up to opinions/ facts.
ID1000's
Stronger clutch
Stronger rear end with 3.63 gears hopefully
Steady state dyno tune

Out briefing
Thanks for your time.
My engine should be coming out the car and start being built this week.

Questions:

What am I missing? ( If anything)


Any pro/cons to anything in my setup that I should consider? or parts that may have better rivals.

Lee04vr

iTrader: (1)

I like the the pile of parts.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Change of plans.
Going:
Artech top mount
Quick spool valve
EFR 7163 twin scroll/IWG


Already got a 405-415ft/lbs clutch now

Still waiting for ALC bearings to polish/ balance the crank then put the engine back together.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

Interested to see the how the EFR7163 performs. I assume Abe is making you a twinscroll manifold?

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

QSV = non twin-scroll manifold. You use the twin-scroll housing with a regular manifold and the QSV will halve the A/R.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I'm liking the parts list too and can't wait to see what the bigger EFR's do on a miata. Good luck

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Why not have abe make a TS manifold? You're already getting a custom manifold and DP to fit that monster turbo. I bet the cost of QSV + normal manifold is close to a TS manifold.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Yeah that sounds like a better idea. TS>QSV

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I want to correct my monster turbo statement. I just realized that he said 7163 is the new turbo the same external size as my efr, well besides the exhaust housing being much bigger. Its not a monster turbo like a 7064 but its still pretty big.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

The data on it that I have seen was impressive. It spools like a 6758 but provides significantly more top end.

Borg Warner EFR-7163 Test and Tune » PERRIN Performance Official Blog

It does not seem to be available yet though from any vendors that I can find.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing that OP already has or Abe has already started building his non-TS manifold because he was going with the 6758.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

PM me when you decide to sell off that 350 and buy the 600

This should be a VERY interesting build. I know EFRs are pretty much magical, but I didn't think 1.8 liters of displacement was enough to spin a turbo that size.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

there are people with GT30's and GT35's on miata's. Yeah, it is.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Because after talking with Abe he thinks making a TS manifold for the bigger B2 frame EFR would be very difficult ( not impossible) mainly because I still want PS/AC. Other then that after research and talking to some supra guys that use QSV alot it may spool the smaller TS turbo faster then Going full TS. Just because ALLOFIT is going the the smaller spool side first then opens up to be normal.

I'm open to options though, I've talked to Sav too I'm wanting to see what TSE had four their manifolds since it'll be PS/AC compatible. Which waiting for the release + waiting to actually acquire the EFR MAYBE TSE will actually really something about their turbo kit that they're making. Not like they keep pushing back dates or anything :P ( Because quality product)


I would go bigger EFR ( one of the 7 series, B2 frames) Because I want to get good numbers with less psi. But fitment is such an issue, especially since I'm ignorant and want to keep PS/AC. Before I wanted to run 20psi thinking it'll get me to 400. Creep'ed Soviet's build and he needed 26+psi


My question:
Anyone here have any experiences with quick spool valves? I know if Fae running one but that's about it.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I was gonna say, wheel size wise its like a 3071R, but wheel inertia wise it should be like a GT28RS or smaller. I want to see spool data of it with the TS housing. I would be serious consideration into redoing my manifold and DP in 2 years to switch to the bigger housing if its the same or better.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

I actually do want a 600!

When everything gets squared away I'll definitely post dyno + spool data

Here's what I got laying around now

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt use that T6 as break in oil, buy regular Rotella T instead. Savgington almost had a heart attack when I emailed him with "what should I use for break in oil? Rotella T6?"

soviet

iTrader: (10)

So what did Full Race tell you about availability of the 7163?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Mmm thats a good question. I've been hearing 2014. From them, treadstone, and southeast power systems.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Haha xD yeah never use synthetic oil for break in. I'll probably go get some **** oil.
I saw awhile back that Royal People is now making break in oil. ( over priced conventional oil I'm sure)