DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Impuls build

Old 11-18-2013, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by miata2fast
The pic maybe deceiving, but it looks like your ride height is set too low. If your ride height is too high or low, you are much more likely to break axles.
It may be too low for drag. it doesn't help that clutch dumped around 5000rpm either. launch control didn't activate. Everyone in the stands thought it was cool haha
Attached Thumbnails Impuls build-c360_2013-11-08-16-03-30-065-1_zps01dd9164.jpg  
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Old 11-23-2013, 10:20 PM
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I finally got my EBC hooked up. I gotta go threw the settings of course. Though I'm finally back up at +15psi.
Am I the only one that has crazy MAT correction values?
Attached Thumbnails Impuls build-matcorrection_zpsa2f0dc17.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:41 PM
  #143  
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Where is your bumper
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by miata2fast
Where is your bumper
A trailer didn't like it.
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:26 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Impuls
Am I the only one that has crazy MAT correction values?
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=95507&dateline=1385263 225[IMG]
that doesn't look right. at all
I've never seen a car that requires more than a couple % between 60-80 or 80-100

*edit - though I'm on ms3 and I think you're on ms2 and I already forgot how ms2 is setup. can't see it being much different though
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
that doesn't look right. at all
I've never seen a car that requires more than a couple % between 60-80 or 80-100

*edit - though I'm on ms3 and I think you're on ms2 and I already forgot how ms2 is setup. can't see it being much different though

My AFR's go lean right after 80f thus why it skyrockets.
Which I remember reading Brain say something about MS doing that after 80F before but that was a while ago.

I would think the Ideal Gas Law doesn't just change for those who have MS2 from MS3, though it does make you moar awesome then me :(
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:12 PM
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Ive just never seen it that drastic on any tune I've ever seen.

20% increase is seriously a crazy amount of fuel to need between two temp points. I don't think I've seen anyones whole correction curve swing that much for the whole spread.

I dunno, maybe I'm wrong. But I would look into that if I were you.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:23 PM
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Thank you, I appreciate the incite man. I'll contact DIY after they get back about my 2nd set if burnt components on a MS board. Or I'll try looking into the MAT correction/ fueling code.

Also when a fuel/VE map peaks at a certain point before redline (5000-5500rpm) then starts tapering of near redline. Does that mean the turbo runs out of the ability to feed the engine? Thus, too small? Or is it kinda normal with small engine/ huge injectors?
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:49 PM
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Am I cool yet?
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:15 PM
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I must be doing something wrong.

At about 23 seconds you can see spark escaping my ignition wire.
Shitty MSM ignition & turbo? Not to mention running pressure well over what it's meant to run.
My AFR (yes shitty Prosport) says I'm in the 12-11.8 range. The dyno's AFR says I go pig rich at ~3900rpm

Ignore the file's title. haha
Attached Thumbnails Impuls build-c360_2013-11-27-18-40-25-520_zps9c887ee6.jpg   Impuls build-c360_2013-11-27-18-40-25-520_zps9c887ee6.jpg  
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:09 PM
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Doing all my wheel bearings:
Front hubs are from Planetmiata.
Rear bearings are from parts store I know work for. Going to have them pressed in.

Also looking to replace/spin my rotors too for my Hawk blue pads.

Suggestions? grease for hubs?
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Impuls
Doing all my wheel bearings:
Front hubs are from Planetmiata.
Rear bearings are from parts store I know work for. Going to have them pressed in.

Also looking to replace/spin my rotors too for my Hawk blue pads.

Suggestions? grease for hubs?
Whatever rotors you can get cheapest, centric if you care about having a name brand. Turning them is a complete waste, unless its an auto-x car and you're turning brand new rotors down to the service limit to save weight.

AMS Dominator Grease is the only choice for the hubs.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:03 PM
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Typical, the most expensive. Any dealers?

Also, what's the thread of the front hubs?
My computer here at O'Reilly's is showing two part numbers
615-145: m18x1.50.
oe part numbers: d06y33042, e9bz3b477a, na0133042a, na0133042b
05112: m20x1.50.
oe part numbers: same

They are also 30mm for the NB I suppose.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Impuls
Typical, the most expensive. Any dealers?
I got mine from Track Speed You got to contact them directly to order.
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
I got mine from Track Speed You got to contact them directly to order.
or just buy it from the source.
AMSOIL DOMINATOR Synthetic Racing Grease
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by shlammed
or just buy it from the source.
AMSOIL DOMINATOR Synthetic Racing Grease
I tried that. I made an order, got a confirmation email, card was never charged, never shipped, called them, said you had to be a dealer to buy direct.
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:39 AM
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Odd, I bought direct from amsoil before.

Thought I did buy the preferred membership as well. (good discount of 25%, paid for more than itself on my one purchase of engine oil, transmission fluid and diff fluid)

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...-registration/
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Impuls
I must be doing something wrong.
Turbo Miata Dyno - YouTube

At about 23 seconds you can see spark escaping my ignition wire.
Shitty MSM ignition & turbo? Not to mention running pressure well over what it's meant to run.
My AFR (yes shitty Prosport) says I'm in the 12-11.8 range. The dyno's AFR says I go pig rich at ~3900rpm

Ignore the file's title. haha


Dyno's sniffer is wrong. You wouldn't have a curve like that if your AFRs were like that.

MSM ignition shouldn't be holding you back yet. I made a bit more power than that on my MSM on stock ignition with no crazy issues, and my tach and speedo still work.


I'm behind on things... what turbo are you running now?
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Dyno's sniffer is wrong. You wouldn't have a curve like that if your AFRs were like that.

MSM ignition shouldn't be holding you back yet. I made a bit more power than that on my MSM on stock ignition with no crazy issues, and my tach and speedo still work.


I'm behind on things... what turbo are you running now?
Did you see the sparks escaping my wire in the video?
I figured mine couldn't be off, I leaned out fuel a bit in top end oh the heat soaked 190hp run and on the way home it felt like detonation was happening on WOT, like the car would jerk forward a bit AFRs would read ~12.8. so I riched it back up looked at plugs the next day and they look bad. rich on the outside lean white in the middle. looked at the top of my pistons and there was black and then a spot of metal that looked pitted.. after researching about it I got insta pissed.

I still have the stock MSM turbo. Stock exhaust size, gutted cat and glass pack.
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Impuls
Did you see the sparks escaping my wire in the video?
I figured mine couldn't be off, I leaned out fuel a bit in top end oh the heat soaked 190hp run and on the way home it felt like detonation was happening on WOT, like the car would jerk forward a bit AFRs would read ~12.8. so I riched it back up looked at plugs the next day and they look bad. rich on the outside lean white in the middle. looked at the top of my pistons and there was black and then a spot of metal that looked pitted.. after researching about it I got insta pissed.

I still have the stock MSM turbo. Stock exhaust size, gutted cat and glass pack.
Couldn't see the sparks in the video.

Your ignition may be in need of servicing, but the reality is that a healthy MSM ignition is capable of supporting more power than the MSM turbo will put out.

Now, knowing that you're using a stock MSM turbo, your power numbers don't look bad.
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