Impuls build
#402
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I pretty sure it's airflow.
Fan (singular) wired constant. Because fail.
Typical coolant reroute
YOU'RE RIGHT I AM A BIG BOY NOW! hahahah come on Soviet, I'm not that .. everything gets HOT. Waterpump and thermostat are all practically new (almost everythings been replaced on this ******)
It's airflow. With stock radiator, and AC condenser in the way, with one fan, and massive intercooler.
Exactly what I mentioned doing in an earlier post. I'm going to use the side port in the bumper and see if we can duct them.
I actually reealllly want to do this:
Exactly nuge, but it is a new hot side setup too, coolant lines and stuff, but i doubt they're being superheated.
There isn't a bottom 2 inches to the mouth of the bumper. The IC LITERALLY mounts to the bumper(top and bottom) and creates ducting.
Typical coolant reroute
dude, you should know how to troubleshoot cooling system at this point. you're a big boy now!
Here are the top 6:
I personally never saw a water pump fail on a miata fail but its also possible
Here are the top 6:
- Upper radiator hose is warm but the coolant gauge is showing overheating?
thermostat stuck closed - Idling the car the temperature climbs but driving is fine?
fan don't come on - Car overheats at highway speeds but fine at idle?
duct that **** - Car overheats at track straight while WOT
get bigger radiator, duct that **** - Feet sprayed with boiling coolant?
heatercore cracked - Replaced everything but car somehow still overheats?
probably blew your headgasket
I personally never saw a water pump fail on a miata fail but its also possible
It's airflow. With stock radiator, and AC condenser in the way, with one fan, and massive intercooler.
The intercooler absolutely is the problem. Before huge intercooler, no overheating issues. After huge intercooler, overheating issues.
That doesn't mean it can't work with the new IC, just that you need to get some fresh air to the radiator in addition to sealing it to the mouth. You don't need much, it's a HUGE opening you have there. For a wild *** guess I would say duct the bottom 2 inches of the mouth below the IC straight to the rad and it would be enough, but it's gotta see some fresh air. Look at the size of the opening Crusher uses, it's not very big and that's an endurance car.
That doesn't mean it can't work with the new IC, just that you need to get some fresh air to the radiator in addition to sealing it to the mouth. You don't need much, it's a HUGE opening you have there. For a wild *** guess I would say duct the bottom 2 inches of the mouth below the IC straight to the rad and it would be enough, but it's gotta see some fresh air. Look at the size of the opening Crusher uses, it's not very big and that's an endurance car.
There isn't a bottom 2 inches to the mouth of the bumper. The IC LITERALLY mounts to the bumper(top and bottom) and creates ducting.
#404
You need to duct to the front of the opening of the mouth. Connect the radiator to the mouth, connect the intercooler straight back to the radiator, and duct the intercooler to the bumper too. BUT make 2 flaps that go to the front of the mouth from the intercooler that only end up with an opening 1/3rd the size of the intercooler core. You'll still get enough air through the intercooler but you'll get WAY more air to the radiator.
#409
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You need to duct to the front of the opening of the mouth. Connect the radiator to the mouth, connect the intercooler straight back to the radiator, and duct the intercooler to the bumper too. BUT make 2 flaps that go to the front of the mouth from the intercooler that only end up with an opening 1/3rd the size of the intercooler core. You'll still get enough air through the intercooler but you'll get WAY more air to the radiator.
The IC is flush mounted to the bumper so all that is ducted into it.
Except for around the end tanks and the 2 side holes in the bumper
All that room for ducting!
IC <space> AC Condenser > Radiator (with 1 stock fan).. It has to be airflow. I didn't think it would be this bad
The car is drivable just have to use the heater and keep out of highway speeds. But this is Florida and I can't
Other then that. The car is doing awesome with the stock coils.
My EWG has a huge spring in it though, I thought it was a 16psi one but I was hitting 20psi, before letting off, when actually going WOT.
#410
Perhaps you should go full Bosozoku and just put the radiator in front of your bumper. When you think about it, it makes sense. Why put a nice radiator in the engine bay where girls can't see it? Plus, your dirty clothed fabricator can probably make you a tailpipe in the shape of a six foot tall *****. You can't lose!
#411
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Perhaps you should go full Bosozoku and just put the radiator in front of your bumper. When you think about it, it makes sense. Why put a nice radiator in the engine bay where girls can't see it? Plus, your dirty clothed fabricator can probably make you a tailpipe in the shape of a six foot tall *****. You can't lose!
I like the way you think!
#419
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Since my MS doesn't like to turn the fan on, I was thinking constant on with ignition w/ relay supplied with main power from alternator or engine fuse box to run fans.
Eventually wiring in the MS to turn them on with coolant temp. Whenever I'm not lazy, which will be never for wiring.
Ohhhhhhh, Okay! Where get electrical wire? ARTech make it? :P
Eventually wiring in the MS to turn them on with coolant temp. Whenever I'm not lazy, which will be never for wiring.
Ohhhhhhh, Okay! Where get electrical wire? ARTech make it? :P
#420
Since my MS doesn't like to turn the fan on, I was thinking constant on with ignition w/ relay supplied with main power from alternator or engine fuse box to run fans.
Eventually wiring in the MS to turn them on with coolant temp. Whenever I'm not lazy, which will be never for wiring.
Ohhhhhhh, Okay! Where get electrical wire? ARTech make it? :P
Eventually wiring in the MS to turn them on with coolant temp. Whenever I'm not lazy, which will be never for wiring.
Ohhhhhhh, Okay! Where get electrical wire? ARTech make it? :P